Replacing rear EF8 mount

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Old May 9, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #1  
Dxs's Avatar
Dxs
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From: Melbourne, Australia, Australia
Default Replacing rear EF8 mount

I am wondering what is the best way to replace the rear mount in an EF8..

I have replaced the other three but the rear looks impossible to do..

here is a pic


any suggestions?
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:05 PM
  #2  
dr_latino999's Avatar
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From: Ft. Hood
Default Re: Replacing rear EF8 mount (Dxs)

Lower / remove the rear crossmember
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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boosted timebomb's Avatar
 
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From: pittsburgh, pa, us
Default Re: Replacing rear EF8 mount (Dxs)

just like Latino said lower the rear crossmember. you cant get to the rear bolt without doing it. trust me i tried it yesterday with the motor OUT of the car and it was impossible
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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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Default Re: Replacing rear EF8 mount (boosted timebomb)

Nah, you can get it out. I don't know how well you can get to it with the engine in, but I was able to get it by taking a swivel joint for my 3/8 ratchet, stick the socket on the end of the swivel, drop a 6" extension on there, and loosen it right up.

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Old May 9, 2007 | 09:59 PM
  #5  
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Default

anyone want to give me a quick run through?

just unbolt the main 19mm bolts and let it drop..

but the mount will still be attached to the engine mounting bracket wont it?

how far can i let the subframe drop.. and can i leave everything connected like steering arms and lca's?
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #6  
downest's Avatar
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Default Re: (Dxs)

I haven't had to do this (thankfully), but you can detach it from the tranny by removing the three 17mm bolts and swiveling the mount upward so it clears the tranny on the way out. I think you will also need to unbolt the steering column from the rack: under the dash where the column goes through the floor, there's a pinch bolt holding the splined shaft from the column in, just loosen it and it willl come apart when you drop the crossmember. I think the crossmember should dropfine, the tie rods can move around so they shouldn't need to be disconnected.

Edit:

Come to think of it, I have removed mine with the engine in the car, to install polyurethane inserts. What engine do you have in that car, a ZC or something? I assume the rear crossmember is the same.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #7  
CO_RaceFab's Avatar
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Default

taking the crossmember down is not needed and a waste of time I replace those all the time I work on mostly efs do what that guy said up there with the swivel rig and stuff
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Old May 10, 2007 | 03:45 AM
  #8  
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Default

i am talking about an EF8
which is JDM SiR with a stock b16a1
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Old May 10, 2007 | 04:27 AM
  #9  
user 72830283's Avatar
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Default

Yea..its harder to that mount off...with a b-series. It is possible to take it off with the rear cross-member in place but a pain the ***. You can get the angled ratcheting ratchets and go the 3°-5° click at a time..which does take a lil' bit of a time. But that's also with the engine out...your best bet is to just drop the rear x-member like everyone mentioned..
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:39 AM
  #10  
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From: sioux falls, sd
Default Re: (pr3d)

Just don't drop the rear crossmember to far or the steering shaft will come out
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Old May 15, 2007 | 10:45 PM
  #11  
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From: Melbourne, Australia, Australia
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ok, this is ending up to be a ****en royal ****..

i have the subframe dropped maybe 6cm.. doesnt want to go any further,
removed the 2-1 header
undid one of the shift linkages
front sussy forks are disconnected from lca's


i have the bolt that goes through the mount out..
there wasnt even a front bolt for the mount
one of the rears is loose the other is damn tight

i have been accessing the rear bolts from the back..
..


now does anyone want to tell me a method they used which was successful?
no room to get it from the top really
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