Hey guys, sorry for yet another idle post, but I have searched and searched and still no answer. I have a JDM B18c, the idle is high and jumping from 1300-1500 rpms. I have removed the IAC valve and the FITV, cleaned them both, bought a new O2 sensor and throttle body gasket and still idles rough. My buddy says it is a vacuum leak. I would like to check, but because I swapped the engine into a 95 Civic coupe, I don't have the vacuum line diagram on the inside of my hood. Could somebody please post this diagram for me as I am sick of this problem and have had it for the last couple of months. Also, I heard it could be the EGR valve. If so, can someone tell me where it is located? It doesn't tell you in the Haynes manual. Thank you so much in advance guys. Have a great day.
Jeff

 

please? Anybody?

 

If you look in the throttle body cover the lower hole with your thumb and you should feel a vaccum. With your thumb over the hole, sealing it, the idle should go back to normal. If this is the case its your Fast Idler Thermo Valve is bad and will probably need to be replaced. If there is no suction from the lower hole the FITV is fine and you need to figure out what else it could be. This happened to me so I just solved the problem by buying a Spoon Sports TB

This is the FITV that will need to be replaced.

 

You might want to look into the grounding of the car. I had this same problem after a motor swap in my integra. The car was grounding out which meant my ground had a positive feed. I re-ground the car with a buddy club grounding kit from passwordjdm.com havent had a problem since.

 

if its a vac leack take some brake cleaner and spray a little where the lines are while the car is on and see if the idle changes, if you find the line thats leaking try plugging it and see what happens

 

The aforementioned things are good ideas. Possibly try adjusting the idle screw located on the TB. Turn it all the way to the right, then two full turns to the left.

 

make sure the coolant is all good, i had a problem like that a while ago

 

Thank you so much guys, I am gonna try all your suggestions right now. I will let you know how it turns out. Thank you once again. Oh yeah, I don't mean to be a pain in the *** or anything, but if someone could take a snapshot of the Vacuum Lines Diagram from under the hood of their Teg, that would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks again.
Peace,
Jeff

 

OK, this is messed up, the guy who did my swap,doesn't know diddly squat! He has the vacuum lines all messed up, which is why I need a diagram. He has a 3-way fitting (shaped like an "F") connecting 3 vacuum hoses together, 1 from the fuel regulator, 1 to the IAB diaphram, and 1 from the charcol canister underneath the intake manifold, but, because I can't see underneath the manifold, I don't know which connection it is going to. There is also 1 vacuum line coming from underneath the manifold that is not going anywhere, he has it tucked between the IAB diaphram and the manifold with an open end??? There is vacuum on the bottom hole in my throttle body, which I know is not good, but could that be because of the messed up routing of the other hoses? Also, I checked the volts in my IAC wiring and I am only getting 5volts, which I believe there should be 12. But first things first, I have to properly connect all the vacuum hoses properly. Any help on the diagram? Thanks in advance guys, and have a great day.
Peace,
Jeff

 

you could try going to a acura dealership and see if there kind enough to print you out the diagram, if not you can try looking at another motor, like a friends motor would be good, or just buy a Haynes book..good luck glad to see that your making some progress...


Rich

 

I have the Haynes book, and they don't have the diagram either. You would think a manual with such detail to repairing a car, like Haynes would have this diagram printed. It shows basically everything else. If I look at a friends engine, (my roommate has a B18C5 in his Del Sol) would I be able to compare even though he doesn't have the charcol canister?

 

Hope this helps

 

Thank you so much, that really helped alot. I checked all the vacuum lines and they are now in their correct places. I removed the charcol canister from under the IM and I noticed there is an elecrtical connector there, but, nothing is connected to it?? Also, in the diagram, it shows a vacuum line going from the canister on the firewall with line #3 going to a connection with the #'s 5, 8, and 14. Also line #19 is going to the same area. On my engine line 3 is going from the canister to an attachment on the throttle body and line 19 is also going to the canister on the firewall?? I din't have that sensor/ connection that line 3 and 19 are going to. Could this be my problem?? Thanks guys and sorry for being a royal pain in the ***.

 

Yes that thing you are missing (#8) is the evap/purge solenoid. The JDM engines did not come with one. There should be a line going from the evap/purge valve to the charcoal canister, and a line going to the IM.

 

I have a line going from the evap/purge canister to the throttle body, right beside the MAP sensor and another coming from the evap/ purge canister to the IM.???

 

I'm so tired of this!!! Itook my CIA off, covered the TB and it doesn't stall out. Almost but not quite. There is air getting sucked in, but I can't tell where. Is it harmfull to the engine to keep it covered for a certain amount of time, say if I cover it with something and look for the leak? I am so frustrated!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Feelseg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a line going from the evap/purge canister to the throttle body, right beside the MAP sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is correct.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Feelseg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and another coming from the evap/ purge canister to the IM.???</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not correct. OK on your evap purge canister you should have 3 outlets. 1 goes to the throttle body (which you have correct), one goes to the gas vent tube on firewall, and the third goes to the evap purge valve (which you don;t have). The evap purge valve has 2 outlets. One to the IM (where you currently have one running from canister) and one to the evap canister.

 

I have 3 lines from the evap canister, 1 to the TB, 1 to the IM and 1 going to a steel hose which looks like it is going to the PS pump or in that area. When I unplug the TPS sensor, it idles fine, but bogs when you give it throttle.

 

Also, I am not sure if this matters or not, but, I removed the cap #5 from the valve #9 and it is all cracked and #9 is also cracked. Nothing is plugged into the male connector on #9 as well. I plugged up #9 and that is not where there is a leak. Hard to find this leak when you are by yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Feelseg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have 3 lines from the evap canister, 1 to the TB, </TD></TR></TABLE>

correct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Feelseg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 going to a steel hose which looks like it is going to the PS pump or in that area</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, that should be the gas vent tube if it is on the firewall

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Feelseg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 to the IM </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is the one that is incorrect. It should be going to the evap purge valve that you are missing, and the evap purge valve should be going to that spot on the manifold. The installer bypassed the missing evap valve and put that hose from the canister to the IM.

 

Thanks bro for the help, I really appreciate it. But what should I do next. Should I leave it going to the IM? The car was running fine for about a year and a half, then the idle just startyed to get this way a couple months ago??

 

I just took my TB apart again and cleaned and tightened the FITV. I put it back together and plugged the hole on the bottom of the TB and there was vacuum. Then I plugged the top hole and the engine doesn't stall, but it barely runs? I think it may be time to take it somewhere, but it is just so costly!!

 

when your car is warmed up rev it to 4000 rpm or 5000 rpm hold the throttle steady for about 5-6 seconds and if you see the rpm needle going up and down then you know you have a vacuum leak. If the needle stays at its point and doesn't move at all then that means you have no vacuum leak and you have another problem.

 

thanks dude. It must be another problem then cause the car drives fine, it only surges at idle. 1500 rpms to be exact