I recently have swapped in a JDM H22a in. Since completion I have upgraded/replaced:

Plugs (NGK vPower forgot which partnumber i had pulled it off of here though)
Wires (NGK premium)
Cap n Rotor ..
-Oil Change twice 10w30
I've also ran Chevrotechron Fuel Sys Cleaner through.. Then changed the Fuel Filter.

I've added the energy suspension motor mount inserts cuz i guess my old h23 ones just didnt cut it and it was squeaking and the engine was rocking like crazy.

Now when i shift through the gears If i shift and it goes down to 2k rpm or even 3k there is NO power what so ever and as the rpms rise it sort of staggers its way up almost as if its starting to "tug tug ..tug..pulll". That is the best way i can describe it. I would almost think that it was normal cuz your not gonna be making full power during low rpm in higher gears but the sputtering makes me think that it wants to but something is holding it back... this is most present in 3rd gear. A friend would have this same sputter type issue with his eclipse and it was the plugs.. so i pulled mine out and inspected them..they are still white tiped and the gap is correct. While ive been reading these posts on here about hesitations on here i hear the knock sensor could be causing an issue but.. im not getting harsh symptoms and no cel like some of them so Im just stumped.. Speculating that the stiff as hell motor mounts causing the sensor to over-read cuz it sure as hell feel the engine but then would it?

I was also thinking maybe a Vacuum issue but i honestly have no idea what could be causing this.. could it be the clutch? I have also noticed that the cv boot on the driverside axel the one connecting to the wheel is torn and has sprayed a lil grease out.. thought that should be thrown in there too..

any help is appreciated


Modified by MulticolrdLude at 11:15 AM 5/9/2007

 

bump

 

sorry for the double bump,

but im hoping someone has experianced this or have an idea how to fix this -.-

 

The only thing i would know to do would be to run live data on it with a scantool. Look to see what all the sensors are doing. I really doubt that it has anything to do with your knock sensor though cause your CEL would be on. Maybe a clogged cat? Does it do ok once you get it above 3K? If so i would be leaning more towards TPS or quite possibly a very bad vacuum leak, possibly blown intake manifold gasket or broke vacuum line. My prelude did this and it was a bad tps. The way i found mine was hooking it up to a scan tool and watching the tps value and how it was changing as i pressed the gas.

 

check your injectors? They may be stuck open and causing the power loss during low RPMs?

 

If it was an injector you should have been able to tell by looking at the sparkplugs they would be dark and almost wet looking if an injector was bad. His seem to be in good shape by what he said earlier. The car may be running way lean. That my guess

 

My car did this. No PS at very low RPM's.
Then...my PS completely went out. Found out it was rack & pin.........not cool.

Now i drive without PS...and its caused unfixable damage of about 1" turn of my wheel that affects nothing

Some day i'll replace it all

 

Im sorry if i wasnt clear in my problem description.. the power steering is fine there just is now "power" as in seemingly no engine hp/tq..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ericdachampion86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing i would know to do would be to run live data on it with a scantool. Look to see what all the sensors are doing. I really doubt that it has anything to do with your knock sensor though cause your CEL would be on. Maybe a clogged cat? Does it do ok once you get it above 3K? If so i would be leaning more towards TPS or quite possibly a very bad vacuum leak, possibly blown intake manifold gasket or broke vacuum line. My prelude did this and it was a bad tps. The way i found mine was hooking it up to a scan tool and watching the tps value and how it was changing as i pressed the gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont have a scan tool but wouldn't the TPS throw some sort of code as well or is that unaffected.. something else to note I drove to work this morning and it appears to be fine.. it only seems to have this issue after the car has warmed up and its hot outside.. Ive been listening for the hiss/whistle of a blown intake Manifold gasket but haevn't heard any or even feeling around to feel it..haven't found any yet.

Im not seeing any broken vacuum lines but is it possible that the vacuum system is wired incorrectly?

An update on the plugs.. Im going to check them again this weekend while im changing the valvecover gasket and adjusting the tick tick tick of my valve clearance back to spec.. but when i last looked at them they were a little wet.. i would have smelled them but i was just getting over a cold so that doesnt work.. but it coudl have been gas on them or the lock paste stuff that you put on rusty threads that looks like metalic paint... im unsure.. but i do remember the tips being white..

 

Your power steering wouldn't make the car do that. Double check your spark plugs and i doubt that your vacuum lines are in the wrong spot besides an vacuum source is an vacuum source. As far as the electrical once again doubt it. Get 2 cans of carb cleaner and spray around where the intake meets the head, also around the throttle body and on the plate between the plenum and the lower part of your intake see if that makes the car idle different. If that doesn't effect it than your intake is fine. Spray the carb cleaner on any vacuum line in question about possibly being bad. That will help to eliminate the vacuum side of this mystery. If this doesn't show anything i would try to get it to a shop to run live data.

 

this is a jdm engine that im guessing sat in a warehouse for a while till it was sold.should i remove the intake manifold and all the sensors and clean the thing? likethe ports n all that i could do it im just not to thrilled with having to take the lower line of bolts off thing.. and even worse.. put them back on..

 

you said it stutters or staggers in low rpms.....does it do it in very high rpms as well?

the reason i ask is because when my ignitor was going bad the engine would hesitate in very low or very high rpms.

 

fuel filter, change it now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fuel filter, change it now.</TD></TR></TABLE>


nah i changed that already unless you think i should rchange it again but it was less than 3 weeks ago when that was done.

As far as the staggering it only happens between 2 and 3.5k.. it does just fine at high rpm.

Im noticing blackness forming on the head where the headers meet im guessint hge gasket has gone bad would this cause this sort of hesitation an exaust leak?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MulticolrdLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


nah i changed that already unless you think i should rchange it again but it was less than 3 weeks ago when that was done.

As far as the staggering it only happens between 2 and 3.5k.. it does just fine at high rpm.

Im noticing blackness forming on the head where the headers meet im guessint hge gasket has gone bad would this cause this sort of hesitation an exaust leak?</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you check your timing?

 

I take it you'll need a timing light for that.. maybe i can bum one of my neighbor across the street ill do that after i adjust the valves this weekend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MulticolrdLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I take it you'll need a timing light for that.. maybe i can bum one of my neighbor across the street ill do that after i adjust the valves this weekend</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea ull need a timing light, takes about 10 seconds to do. take the idle timing then rev it a little and see if the timing shifts at all. then post.