i've been told that if you going to have your car driven daily. and if your doing body work here and their your going to want to use a epoxy primer. this should keep the elements out... and always use paint from the same manufacture... use ppg with ppg.

 

na all the way...i guess u didnt read everything i wrote...i told him to rattle can primer the car while hes driving it out and about so he doesnt waste money on good primer and sealer....a epoxy primer will hold up better to the elements but its still never a good idea to primer ur car and just roll on it and when u decide to paint it just spray over it....and also if u re read u will see i told him to rattle can it and when he was ready sand that off and then primer the car with a good quality primer...not to primer over the rattle can stuff...late

 

thanks for the info, does it matter which way to sand when trying to remove old primer? circular, left to right, up down, etc. Im gonna work on the hood which has old primer on it, gonna re do the primer with rattle can, I presume it doesnt matter as long as I get the hood scuffed, the old primer off and smoothed out at the same time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECth1s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info, does it matter which way to sand when trying to remove old primer? circular, left to right, up down, etc. Im gonna work on the hood which has old primer on it, gonna re do the primer with rattle can, I presume it doesnt matter as long as I get the hood scuffed, the old primer off and smoothed out at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hit it with a DA sander using 320 grit. If you don't have a DA wet sand it with 600 or 800 (unless of course there is an *** load of primer on it). And what kind of primer are you using? Is it a filler primer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WihaSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hit it with a DA sander using 320 grit. If you don't have a DA wet sand it with 600 or 800 (unless of course there is an *** load of primer on it). And what kind of primer are you using? Is it a filler primer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not filler primer, I bought duplicolor's black sandable primer, I also bought an electric sander and 220 grit, but I may need to go with a much more coarse grit to remove the original paint, I'm thinking around 100-150 grit, and sand the car to its original primer. Then smooth it out, and redo it with new primer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECth1s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not filler primer, I bought duplicolor's black sandable primer, I also bought an electric sander and 220 grit, but I may need to go with a much more coarse grit to remove the original paint, I'm thinking around 100-150 grit, and sand the car to its original primer. Then smooth it out, and redo it with new primer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you sand the car to it's original primer I would suggest using a high build primer filler, use 2-3 wet coats (let dry about 15 mins between coats), let dry completely, then wet sand with 600 or 800. This will fill any low spots you made by sanding down to the original factory primer. Also 220 grit will work fine, just go back over it with 320 to make its smooth and to take all the 220 scratches out. I always go 320 before I primer, I'm ****. You can probably get away with just 220 though.

 

sounds good, what would be a good high build primer?, I'm already using the Duplicolor sandable black primer, not sure if its high build, but if it isnt, that means I would have to put more layers compared to using a high build primer, correct? Duplicolor has a filler primer which is high build, but its a gray primer. Im trying to use black primer since the car will be black anyway. And I can't find any black filler primers anywhere either.

 

also Ill be keeping the car prep'd and primered black for awhile till I can save enough $$ for a paint job.

 

Bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECth1s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds good, what would be a good high build primer?, I'm already using the Duplicolor sandable black primer, not sure if its high build, but if it isnt, that means I would have to put more layers compared to using a high build primer, correct? Duplicolor has a filler primer which is high build, but its a gray primer. Im trying to use black primer since the car will be black anyway. And I can't find any black filler primers anywhere either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you can use the Duplicolor High Build first to fill in low spots, then wet sand it smooth, let it dry completely then go over it with the Duplicolor black, or a black sealer primer.

 

that's the one thing I can't find black primer sealer if anything.

 

If your trying to temporarily protect your repair sealer is not a good option. Use a coat or 2 of automotive single stage paint. If its temp. why worry about the color?

 

not worried about color, I assume it would be easier to paint the car black when the primer is black as well.

 

Black covers well so its not necessary. I've never seen/ heard of black primer myself but I'm sure probably exists.

 

i got quoted 1200 to get a dc2/4 primed at a shop in CAD. but look into the 50$ paint job thread here. cost u around 200 to do a good job supplies + a wagner gun.

 

i got the wagner gun already, stupid me tried using primer paint to spray, not knowing it was too thick for the nozzle to spray. And came out like diarhea.

 

thin it out maybe...

 

according to the instructions for the the primer it said thin it out with 2oz of water per quart, but thinning is not required, did so and the primer still came out too thick and looked fugly, can use paint thinner with primer? And also how do you even know how much thinner to mix the paint with before applying it?