Why does my car shake, not a simple wheel balancing issue....
1993 Accord SE 199K miles automatic
Car vibrates at all speeds mostly highway speeds. Wheel shakes/vibrates when crusing. During braking the car shakes as well, doesnt pull to one side, just shakes. So after an entire day of **** the front rotors and pads were replaced yesterday, I was expecting it to be a huge PITA but not that bad. While the passenger side was out we replaced the passenger side axle due to ripped CV boot. The rear rotors and pads were replaced about 10K miles ago. All four loaded calipers were replaced by the original owner @ 170K miles. The upper control arms and hardware were replaced @ 185K. I replaced the ball joints, outer tie rod ends and sway bar bushings @ 195K.
I honestly do not know what is left to replace. The car could "use" an alignment, not because it pulls jsut because its been 2 years or so. Wheels and tires have been rebalanced and snows to summer have been switched, yet still the vibration/shaking.
What I think:
1.) Motor mount somewhere?
2.) Inner Tie Rods?
Basically those are the things that have not been replaced nor do I have a record of replacement. Does anyone have any insight. I have replaced almost everything at this point so I can't stop now! What does everyone think?
Car vibrates at all speeds mostly highway speeds. Wheel shakes/vibrates when crusing. During braking the car shakes as well, doesnt pull to one side, just shakes. So after an entire day of **** the front rotors and pads were replaced yesterday, I was expecting it to be a huge PITA but not that bad. While the passenger side was out we replaced the passenger side axle due to ripped CV boot. The rear rotors and pads were replaced about 10K miles ago. All four loaded calipers were replaced by the original owner @ 170K miles. The upper control arms and hardware were replaced @ 185K. I replaced the ball joints, outer tie rod ends and sway bar bushings @ 195K.
I honestly do not know what is left to replace. The car could "use" an alignment, not because it pulls jsut because its been 2 years or so. Wheels and tires have been rebalanced and snows to summer have been switched, yet still the vibration/shaking.
What I think:
1.) Motor mount somewhere?
2.) Inner Tie Rods?
Basically those are the things that have not been replaced nor do I have a record of replacement. Does anyone have any insight. I have replaced almost everything at this point so I can't stop now! What does everyone think?
HMMMMM I'm thinking its the front rotors. I think they are not balanced or uneven. Were they the cheap ones? You did make sure all the bolts were in the right place and tighten???
it could possibly be a motor mount...just go to search and look for bad motor mounts or something becuase I remember recently someone was asking about a bad motor mount and someone told him how to check them..I know with your car off you can try to force your motor around and see if it moves..and also I think you can have someone start your car and rev it up and see where your motor is pulling..i think its normal topull towards the front or back i cant remember..try that..also i would go ahead and replace the inner tie rod ends also that could cause some vibrations i know it did for me...also when you are shaking while you brake andyouve already replaced everything you may need new spindles...from what ive read up before there was a guy who had the same problem with his car shaking during braking...he replaced everthing like 4 times and then he replaced the spindles and the problem was gone!
As a Honda pro for quite some time I believe your problem is probably a front wheel out of round, It could be a inner CV joint but that mostly happens on acceleration. Have your wheels checked for trueness
My vote goes for checking for a broken belt in one of the tires;
you can do a slow roll thru a smooth parking lot, holding the steering wheel lightly and see if you feel a kick in the steering wheel.
There also might be an uneven place on the tire tread, because a broken belt can raise that spot and the tread will wear faster at that point.
you can do a slow roll thru a smooth parking lot, holding the steering wheel lightly and see if you feel a kick in the steering wheel.
There also might be an uneven place on the tire tread, because a broken belt can raise that spot and the tread will wear faster at that point.
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My front motor mount has some play in it. I have to buy one at advanced and put it in, that would be amazing if that solved the problem. I am almost kicking myself for replacing the front rotors now, as they might not have actually been "warped" after all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My vote goes for checking for a broken belt in one of the tires;
you can do a slow roll thru a smooth parking lot, holding the steering wheel lightly and see if you feel a kick in the steering wheel.
There also might be an uneven place on the tire tread, because a broken belt can raise that spot and the tread will wear faster at that point.</TD></TR></TABLE>I was gonna suggest that too, but CBL9 said he swapped snow tires & summer tires & still vibrates.
If the engine mount is loose, that's a reason to replace it anyway.
I think you should be able to judge loose inner tie rods by having someone hold the steering wheel while you grab the tire & try to 'steer' it. Better while that wheel is off the ground, but be absolutely sure the car is supported properly.
you can do a slow roll thru a smooth parking lot, holding the steering wheel lightly and see if you feel a kick in the steering wheel.
There also might be an uneven place on the tire tread, because a broken belt can raise that spot and the tread will wear faster at that point.</TD></TR></TABLE>I was gonna suggest that too, but CBL9 said he swapped snow tires & summer tires & still vibrates.
If the engine mount is loose, that's a reason to replace it anyway.
I think you should be able to judge loose inner tie rods by having someone hold the steering wheel while you grab the tire & try to 'steer' it. Better while that wheel is off the ground, but be absolutely sure the car is supported properly.
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