your A3 hp?
ok so i own a 2003 ep3. wondering what kind of hp and tq the k20a3 peeps are producing. list your setup i.e. NA or forced induction or nitrous fed. i'm only looking for people who have kept ONLY the K20a3 motor and didn't swap the mighty a2 in their engine bays. this goes for the rsx base drivers too. thanks for the info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL MOTOR EM2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">161whp 131trq
I/E/DCRH KPRO</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im just about the same..
I/E/DCRH KPRO</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im just about the same..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C4st0r_Tr0y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im just about the same..</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL MOTOR EM2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">161whp 131trq
I/E/DCRH KPRO</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you happy with the numbers you put out? do you think it was worth the money?
Im just about the same..</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALL MOTOR EM2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">161whp 131trq
I/E/DCRH KPRO</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you happy with the numbers you put out? do you think it was worth the money?
158/131 on a Dynojet, i/h/e (Mugen airbox, Type-S header & cat, Fujitsubo RM-01A) and no Hondata.
I'm actually pretty happy with the numbers, since stock EPs usually dyno around 135 whp on Dynojets. The whole i/h/e cost a bunch (but not the most expensive possible, either), but I planned on doing a swap, too, and I wanted good stuff to complement a new motor.
I'm actually pretty happy with the numbers, since stock EPs usually dyno around 135 whp on Dynojets. The whole i/h/e cost a bunch (but not the most expensive possible, either), but I planned on doing a swap, too, and I wanted good stuff to complement a new motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">158/131 on a Dynojet, i/h/e (Mugen airbox, Type-S header & cat, Fujitsubo RM-01A) and no Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just curious, what kind of 1/4 times do you run?
just curious, what kind of 1/4 times do you run?
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Just had it dynoed on 05/05/07 153 whp on the dyno pack with Injen Sp1576 cai, Comptech short header & HKS hi-power exhaust on chevron regular gas...forgot the torque
Modified by T_Virus at 12:09 PM 5/7/2007
Modified by T_Virus at 12:09 PM 5/7/2007
right now i have a fujita cai and comptech catback. i might either go with a a2 swap or a turbo kit. cause my friends stock type s is killing the ep. haha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thomas Jenkinson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just curious, what kind of 1/4 times do you run?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I suck at driving -- I've never gotten below 15.5-15.6 on regular tires.
I don't think that the bigger brake upgrade (or my own body weight) helps, either.
I think I suck at driving -- I've never gotten below 15.5-15.6 on regular tires.
I don't think that the bigger brake upgrade (or my own body weight) helps, either.
in all honesty EP3's are slow unless you do an engine swap. To bad they have Vtec for fuel efficency and they weight i believe 50 more lbs then the rsx type S
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think I suck at driving -- I've never gotten below 15.5-15.6 on regular tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>
15.7 was the best I could do with stock rubber but I don't know exactly what I'm making for power right now. I should be hitting the dyno again soon to get the EMS totally dialed in.
I think I suck at driving -- I've never gotten below 15.5-15.6 on regular tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>
15.7 was the best I could do with stock rubber but I don't know exactly what I'm making for power right now. I should be hitting the dyno again soon to get the EMS totally dialed in.
205/171 on DYNOJET
Which reads about 12-15% lower than dynopack.
JRSC Race, upgraded pulley, comptech header, exhaust, CAI.
Kpro TUNED.
Instant power, no lag, reliable, easy to maintain.
Which reads about 12-15% lower than dynopack.
JRSC Race, upgraded pulley, comptech header, exhaust, CAI.
Kpro TUNED.
Instant power, no lag, reliable, easy to maintain.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MI EP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a a2 headswap on a3 stock bottom end with stock a2 ecu untuned, greddy sp2 exhaust, dc shortty header, k&N short ram and dynoed at 185hp and 132 tq. </TD></TR></TABLE>
are you planning of tuning the motor with kpro? that should give you a pretty good bump in hp and tq right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MI EP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a a2 headswap on a3 stock bottom end with stock a2 ecu untuned, greddy sp2 exhaust, dc shortty header, k&N short ram and dynoed at 185hp and 132 tq. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You must be failing out of Vtec if you don't have the a2 tranny...
You must be failing out of Vtec if you don't have the a2 tranny...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by risktypeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in all honesty EP3's are slow unless you do an engine swap. To bad they have Vtec for fuel efficency and they weight i believe 50 more lbs then the rsx type S</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's the stupidest comment i heard
the a2, a3 have identical bottom end other than the oil squirter, you wont' need it if you going to forge internal.
the only difference is the head itself, swap a a2 head and you get urself a built a2.
that's the stupidest comment i heard
the a2, a3 have identical bottom end other than the oil squirter, you wont' need it if you going to forge internal.
the only difference is the head itself, swap a a2 head and you get urself a built a2.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EP3hatch03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's the stupidest comment i heard
the a2, a3 have identical bottom end other than the oil squirter, you wont' need it if you going to forge internal.
the only difference is the head itself, swap a a2 head and you get urself a built a2.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO you seriously think a k20a3 would have the same internals as the a2? their bottem end is not the same, different pistons different rods, different compression different bore and stroke etc.... if it was that easy then why would honda put in a jank crappy POS head? LMAO... you really have no idea if you think that vtec is made for power. There is more then just one vtec design (if your a true honda fan you'd know this) It was created for fuel efficency. If it were that simple i think a lot of a3 owners would be just swapping the head and calling it a day and make the same power as the a2, don't you think? Only ones that are the same is the base rsx and the ep3. If you think that the vtec in the ep3 is similar to the a2 then you have a lot to learn about engines. My comment is actually a true statement... the Vtec in the EP3 and basa rsx are for fuel efficency.
It has VTEC but it's more designed to minimize emissions and maximize driveability and gas mileage. In this system, there are two cam lobes, a normal one and a puny little atrophied one, for each pair of intake valves (nothing happens on the exhaust side). At light load and low rpm, each lobe opens one valve, so most of the intake air goes through the valve that's opened more. This creates a swirl in the combustion chamber that happens to be great for combustion efficiency. Floor it, though, and one valve won't be enough, so both valves follow the bigger lobe. Notice there's no screaming high-rpm race lobe here
that's the stupidest comment i heard
the a2, a3 have identical bottom end other than the oil squirter, you wont' need it if you going to forge internal.
the only difference is the head itself, swap a a2 head and you get urself a built a2.
</TD></TR></TABLE>LMAO you seriously think a k20a3 would have the same internals as the a2? their bottem end is not the same, different pistons different rods, different compression different bore and stroke etc.... if it was that easy then why would honda put in a jank crappy POS head? LMAO... you really have no idea if you think that vtec is made for power. There is more then just one vtec design (if your a true honda fan you'd know this) It was created for fuel efficency. If it were that simple i think a lot of a3 owners would be just swapping the head and calling it a day and make the same power as the a2, don't you think? Only ones that are the same is the base rsx and the ep3. If you think that the vtec in the ep3 is similar to the a2 then you have a lot to learn about engines. My comment is actually a true statement... the Vtec in the EP3 and basa rsx are for fuel efficency.
It has VTEC but it's more designed to minimize emissions and maximize driveability and gas mileage. In this system, there are two cam lobes, a normal one and a puny little atrophied one, for each pair of intake valves (nothing happens on the exhaust side). At light load and low rpm, each lobe opens one valve, so most of the intake air goes through the valve that's opened more. This creates a swirl in the combustion chamber that happens to be great for combustion efficiency. Floor it, though, and one valve won't be enough, so both valves follow the bigger lobe. Notice there's no screaming high-rpm race lobe here
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by risktypeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LMAO you seriously think a k20a3 would have the same internals as the a2? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, he is talking about putting built internals into an A3 block and putting on an A2 head. That's been done, and it's resulted in some good, fast motors.
LMAO you seriously think a k20a3 would have the same internals as the a2? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, he is talking about putting built internals into an A3 block and putting on an A2 head. That's been done, and it's resulted in some good, fast motors.
2002 EP3 - represent the minivan!
v2 intake/dc shorty/megan test pipe/ GReddy evo2/K Pro - full dyno tune
158hp/136tq
Not bad considering the shorty header is killing me.
worth the money? to me, yes, as the only really expensive thing was hondata. everything else i got great deals on new/used.
this setup is fun and reliable, and it will hold me over a few more months until i swap a tsx motor in.
k24a2 > k20a2
v2 intake/dc shorty/megan test pipe/ GReddy evo2/K Pro - full dyno tune
158hp/136tq
Not bad considering the shorty header is killing me.
worth the money? to me, yes, as the only really expensive thing was hondata. everything else i got great deals on new/used.
this setup is fun and reliable, and it will hold me over a few more months until i swap a tsx motor in.
k24a2 > k20a2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eloist2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2002 EP3 - represent the minivan!
v2 intake/dc shorty/megan test pipe/ GReddy evo2/K Pro - full dyno tune
158hp/136tq
Not bad considering the shorty header is killing me.
worth the money? to me, yes, as the only really expensive thing was hondata. everything else i got great deals on new/used.
this setup is fun and reliable, and it will hold me over a few more months until i swap a tsx motor in.
k24a2 > k20a2
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the k24 swap about the same level of difficulty as a a2 swap. will both engine swaps still let me keep my ac and PS?
v2 intake/dc shorty/megan test pipe/ GReddy evo2/K Pro - full dyno tune
158hp/136tq
Not bad considering the shorty header is killing me.
worth the money? to me, yes, as the only really expensive thing was hondata. everything else i got great deals on new/used.
this setup is fun and reliable, and it will hold me over a few more months until i swap a tsx motor in.
k24a2 > k20a2
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the k24 swap about the same level of difficulty as a a2 swap. will both engine swaps still let me keep my ac and PS?


