i want to turbo my d16y8, it's bone stock right now .. and i most likely will just turbo it on stock internals for now and hope to run ~220whp

now i know people use eagle rods and vitara pistons to be safe and lower compression a bit .. i think this is a good idea as well .. that way i could run about 300whp safely

i'm not too familiar with engine building and i was wondering .. if i spend ~$600 for eagle rods and vitaras .. do i just take apart my engine and simply replace my old rods and pistons with the new ones and call it a day?

i have a feeling it's not that simple .. so what else would i need to do .. and how much extra would it cost me $$$?

 

You have to gap the rings, and depending on how the walls look you might need a hone as well. You need to do alot of research before you try dipping into a project like this.

 

Engine building is not that simple at all. You better have all the necesary tools because you can't just pop a piston out like that. If you had access to a shop and maybe an experienced tech then by all means go for it. On stock internals you can run 200hp but anything above that might be pushing it. You'll also have to get your turbo tuned. Its a money pit, if you're looking to build prepare to spend more than a swap. If you're just gonna boost it, it'll cost you around $900-1200. Should do a compression and leak down before you look at the options.

 

Why not spend the extra money on forged pistons that are made for a D-series?

 

simple. take your block to a machine shop. let them hone, balance rotating assembly, check piston to way clearance. Then make sure you have the correct gap on the rings. Plastic guage the bearings/crank. torque everything down in sequence.

for the head take it to a machine shop and have them check it to make sure nothing is bad and no leaks. And have them resurface the head.

Then its just put everything together and torque it down. Its a good amount of work and money. but when your done its all worth it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">simple. take your block to a machine shop. let them hone, balance rotating assembly, check piston to way clearance. Then make sure you have the correct gap on the rings. Plastic guage the bearings/crank. torque everything down in sequence.

for the head take it to a machine shop and have them check it to make sure nothing is bad and no leaks. And have them resurface the head.

Then its just put everything together and torque it down. Its a good amount of work and money. but when your done its all worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any idea how much this would cost? my unlcle is a mechanic .. he just built a 57 bel air .. i'm sure he could help me with all this .. but i was wondering how much honing and resurfacing would cost ..

and to the guy that asked why i dont use forged pistons .. i heard that i need to resleeve if i use forged pistons .. and vitaras are cheaper and good for at least 300whp

 

Unless D-series have a special sleeve like the H22's that I don't know about then no, you wouldn't have to resleeve. I'm running forged pistons in my stock B18 block with no problems whatsoever...just a little honing to clean up the cylinders before I popped them in.

And it's right around $400 for forged pistons (http://www.nopionline.com/nopi...Civic) for a D16...I'd go that route so you don't have to do any boring or anything like that.

And if you start to get REALLY power greedy (like most people do when it comes to turbocharging) then you already have the bottom end ready to take the abuse

Just my .02

 

honing costs like 8 dollars a cylinder. Total=$32
balancing rotating assembly costs like= $150
Checking piston to wall clearance is usually free.
Cleaning the block is usually like like =$50
Resurfacing the head is like = $40
Checking the head for leaks etc is like =$100

And most performance engine builders charge like $600 to assemble a block and check everything. unless you can do it yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pjr710 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any idea how much this would cost? my unlcle is a mechanic .. he just built a 57 bel air .. i'm sure he could help me with all this .. but i was wondering how much honing and resurfacing would cost ..

and to the guy that asked why i dont use forged pistons .. i heard that i need to resleeve if i use forged pistons .. and vitaras are cheaper and good for at least 300whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

no your stock sleeves are fine and i posted something about a month ago asking the hp limit on d16 stock sleeves and found that it is around 400 whp so you'll be fine


Modified by 94c1v1cex at 12:41 PM 5/2/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honing costs like 8 dollars a cylinder. Total=$32
balancing rotating assembly costs like= $150
Checking piston to wall clearance is usually free.
Cleaning the block is usually like like =$50
Resurfacing the head is like = $40
Checking the head for leaks etc is like =$100

And most performance engine builders charge like $600 to assemble a block and check everything. unless you can do it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are cheaper prices than i expected .. is balancing and rotating necessary?

and as for putting it toghther i can probably do that with my uncle

and if i did resuface and hone anything .. would my motor basically be brand new?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pjr710 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are cheaper prices than i expected .. is balancing and rotating necessary?

and as for putting it toghther i can probably do that with my uncle

and if i did resuface and hone anything .. would my motor basically be brand new?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not necessarily but close enough because there is still the wear of heat on it and ya i would go ahead and balance it to be safe

 

sweet .. good info

thanks guys

 

if you do take apart the motor yes you definately need to balance the rotating assembly. Take it from me that ive had like 6 diffent motor setups in the make 2 years. ive went through a lot of trouble because of overlooking stupid little things.

 

dont forget you need to notch the block for the rods to clear

 

wow lot of mis info in thei thread first of all d16y8 sleeves are not fiber reinforced like h22 blocks

second of all the d16y8 on vitaras have been proven to have well over 350 horse reliably ( your 200 is stock internals man) and wtf is turbo tuned? you tune the ecu not the ******* turbo what are you going to do? swap out compressor blades? internal shafts? etc?


if you cant figure out the simple *** block notch and rebuild required for a vitara give up on tuning cars

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow lot of mis info in thei thread first of all d16y8 sleeves are not fiber reinforced like h22 blocks
second of all the d16y8 on vitaras have been proven to have well over 350 horse reliably ( your 200 is stock internals man) and wtf is turbo tuned? you tune the ecu not the ******* turbo what are you going to do? swap out compressor blades? internal shafts? etc?


if you cant figure out the simple *** block notch and rebuild required for a vitara give up on tuning cars
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I swear dude, every other post you make has something to do with somebody needing to give up on something (I seem to remember you telling me that I need to give up on racing cars because my B-series hatchback doesn't run a 14 second 1/4 mile).

First of all, read my post again...better yet, here it is.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless D-series have a special sleeve like the H22's that I don't know about then no, you wouldn't have to resleeve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did I say anything about the D-series having the same sleeves as H22's? No...I don't think so.

Nobody is a Honda God like you, so why don't you quit acting like you know everything about everything and go open up a dictionary to clean up your spelling and some kind of typing program to help you use your keyboard.




By the way, since I don't know how to "block notch and rebuild a D16Y8 with Vitara pistons" do I need to give up on tuning cars?

 

yea dude .. that guy smoke some major pole .. i'm a n00b at all this **** and i'm just asking so i have a better understanding .. no need to bash me like that .. u can go fvck urself

but jkov .. you said to get forged so i dont need to bore out my block ... i'm pretty sure that vitaras come in 75mm so i woulnd't need to bore out my block .. can anyone confirm this?&gt;

 

stock bore is 75mm but depending on condition of the sleeves, a slight overbore/hone may be needed.

 

haha post wasnt to you op, niether was it to that guy that runs 15's haha it was to clear up all the mis info another thing is if ya dont know how to build a motor WHY are you givivng advice on building motors? god honda tuning is going down the ******* drain


so i can go expletive my self fine w/e i wouldnt talk to someone that way when they are helpinj you with your build you dumbfuck this is why i stopped posting tech

you dont need to sleeve your block for forged pistons, vitara pistons are not forged, they are cast, of an alloy that is rated as high as an aftermarket forged piston you see metals have a rating depending on what they are made out of and the casting or forging process

vitara psitons come in 75.5 mm bores which is what a d16z6/y8 piston is

also come in .25 over and .50 over, best one for you really dpeneds on your milage although the 50 over is frowned upon claming it takes too much slack off the sleeves and weakens it

so most buy the ,25 over since most y8/z6 blocks found arent new and are beaten up on, block notching instructions will come with the eagle rods, simple easy to follow instructions that could be done with a dremel or at a macine shop for around 100 bucks also get it cleaned to get the iron and aluminum shavings away

not that hard guys

 

alrite well thanks spork .. i retract my previous post .. i thought u were tellin me i was a dumbfck because i didn't know how to build a motor

so .25 over 75.5 is what i want w/ vitaras? ... and if i buy an old d16 block the same thing applies correct? .. i was talking about doing this on my 90k d16 .. but i rather buy a cheap block so i can drive mine every day while i build the other one

 

you really need an id gauge to find the condition of the block and a good expericenced eye or a machine shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha post wasnt to you op, niether was it to that guy that runs 15's haha it was to clear up all the mis info another thing is if ya dont know how to build a motor WHY are you givivng advice on building motors? god honda tuning is going down the ******* drain

so i can go expletive my self fine w/e i wouldnt talk to someone that way when they are helpinj you with your build you dumbfuck this is why i stopped posting tech

you dont need to sleeve your block for forged pistons, vitara pistons are not forged, they are cast, of an alloy that is rated as high as an aftermarket forged piston you see metals have a rating depending on what they are made out of and the casting or forging process

vitara psitons come in 75.5 mm bores which is what a d16z6/y8 piston is

also come in .25 over and .50 over, best one for you really dpeneds on your milage although the 50 over is frowned upon claming it takes too much slack off the sleeves and weakens it

so most buy the ,25 over since most y8/z6 blocks found arent new and are beaten up on, block notching instructions will come with the eagle rods, simple easy to follow instructions that could be done with a dremel or at a macine shop for around 100 bucks also get it cleaned to get the iron and aluminum shavings away

not that hard guys
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it bad that I have to read what you type at least 2 times to get what you're attempting to say? And did I claim to be an expert at building motors? Let me check...ummm...no...especially when it came to D-series, I just helped him out on the bit that I do know about.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">god honda tuning is going down the ******* drain</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ever think that maybe you're one of the reasons for this? If you're not going to be at least semi-constructive, then don't even say anything dude...it's that simple.

 

take it to a machine shop and see what they recomend.