So today I did a complete brake overhaul... I replaced my rear wheel cylinders and shoes. And then I put new rotors and pads on.

The problem... The rotors are stuck in a grabbing position. My brakes are rubbing, I can feel and smell it. What when wrong?

Any ideas? I don't think the sliders are stuck. Did I miss something?

Thanks... I need my car to be done tomorrow!!!

 

im just going with the obvious but did you bleed your coolant? refill your brake fluid, make sure your bleed vavle is fully closed?

 

ok... u have rear drums right?... are these the ones sticking?... did u remember to readjust the "adjuster bolt" thats what honda calls it... what it does is adjust the distance of the shoes to the drum as the shoes wear out....

 

Ok... First off, we did bleed the system. My fluid was nasty, we bled it a lot.

It isn't the back brakes that are grabbing. It is the fronts. The rears are fine. I am just confused on why the front brakes are rubbing. We pushed the piston back pretty far, does we need to push it all the way back in as it has the inability to do it itself? Maybe lube the sliders more? These are what I am hoping is the problem instead of something severe, I just want to know if there could be any other problem.

Thanks.

 

did the car sit for any peroid of time befor you did the brake work??
also have a friend step on the brake pedal while you look at the brake pistion and make sure it is retracting when your friend lets off the brake pedal
there could also be corrosion on the brake pistions preventing them from retracting

 

true true....

but it also could be that u just didn't put it back far enought, or something like the rotor isn't round... mabe its a bad rotor or pad... try pushing the piston all the way back, + as time goes on the sound till go away, cuz the pads will wear away & adjust themselves

 

I am going to try to take them off again and back out the piston even more. I am guessing that is it. This car is my daily driver and doesn't sit for more than a day at the time. The brakes worked fine before. Thanks for the replies. Lets hope it all works out....

DJ

After everything is all together I am going to put up a brake thread... I took pictures.

 

You may want to also look into adjusting the pushrod on your booster.

 

brake thread would be great.....

 

I ended up having to put the old rotors back on. The new rotors were like three mm thicker than the old ones. I got everything to work with old rotors and new pads. It just sucks though cause now I have some brembo rotors just sitting there!

It seems like the piston in the caliper works better at engaging and disengaging when it is needed to be out a little farther (like when there is a smaller rotor). When it is still in the housing mostly it doesn't want to work as smoothly. I am putting new calipers on next week.

Also... Even though I bled the brakes like a jillion times, they still feel very spongy! I put all new brake fluid in to get crap out and crap... It feels like there is some air in there though. I don't know what is going on.

It sucks how a little project like this become a two day mess with a total of like 16 hours of labor for nothing...

Actually, I do have new rear shoes and wheel cylinders though!!!

 

I too, have done more than a fair share of brake work and bleeding. I would double check the connections at the master cylinder.

The way these seal is at the flared end not the threads, so if they are not squared or at an angle it will have trouble sealing no matter how hard you torque them. Hence this is why people strip this bolt so often. This is were I had a problem, because everytime someone pump the brakes when bleeding it was pulling in air from the rear connection.

Then I would start the car and the petal would sink to the floor, this is with a new MC.

What method are you using to bleed them?

 

if u really want to run your brembo rotors go to a shop & have the surfaced

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by square_1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It seems like the piston in the caliper works better at engaging and disengaging when it is needed to be out a little farther (like when there is a smaller rotor). When it is still in the housing mostly it doesn't want to work as smoothly. I am putting new calipers on next week. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats because your caliper needs to be rebuilt. specifically the piston is corroded and needs to be cleaned off or replaced. this is part of the rebuilding procedure.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also... Even though I bled the brakes like a jillion times, they still feel very spongy! I put all new brake fluid in to get crap out and crap... It feels like there is some air in there though. I don't know what is going on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your drums need to be adjusted. theyre supposedly self adjusting. basically find a hill or a long enough stretch of road you can reverse in, and brake while rolling backwards. its best to adjust them by hand to the point theres slight drag in the drum while turning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94 Supra TT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I too, have done more than a fair share of brake work and bleeding. I would double check the connections at the master cylinder.

The way these seal is at the flared end not the threads, so if they are not squared or at an angle it will have trouble sealing no matter how hard you torque them. Hence this is why people strip this bolt so often. This is were I had a problem, because everytime someone pump the brakes when bleeding it was pulling in air from the rear connection.

Then I would start the car and the petal would sink to the floor, this is with a new MC.

What method are you using to bleed them?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


how can you tell when the bolt is aligned?

 

calipers can seize up if they weren't taken care of previously. The part that the caliper pivots on (opposite of the bolt that you take out) should be lubed if you're doing brake work.

I found out the hard way-similar problems. I ended up just buying a rebuilt caliper from kragen or some auto parts store.

 

I am probably just going to buy new calipers...

But now when I brake there is pressure but when I sit at a stop the pedal slowly goes to the floor. I am not leaking any brake fluid that I can see. What is the deal?

 

master cylinder needs replacement.

its an old car. these things need to be maintained and replaced when worn out.