I have a 99' Honda Civic EX. Engine is a Y8 of course with just external bolt-ons done. My list of mods.

Ebay CAI
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
AEM Adjust. Fuel Pressure Reg. (35 psi)
AEM High Volume Fuel Rail
MSD Upgraded Cap & Rotor Kit
MSD Blaster SS Coil
MSD 8.5 mm Wires
NGK Iridium Plugs
Ebay Header
Megan High Flow CAT
Skunk2 Catback

Where to go from here? I am not sure. HELP.

 

what are you looking for? what primary use? from what i see and read you pretty much just threw your money away.

 

I would add a Skunk2, Crower, or Blox Camshaft to that list, that would give you a little more getup, and a better VTEC hit, but most people are going to agree that your only option for getting the most power is to go boost.
Since you already have a FP-regulator, that would be one advantage for tuning it yourself if you were to go boost.

 

And with all those mods your car is just as slow as when you bought it.

Boost. Part out your motor and you'll have more than enough money for a turbo kit.

Ebay CAI - $50
Skunk2 Intake Manifold - $200
AEM High Volume Fuel Rail - $50?
MSD Upgraded Cap & Rotor Kit -uselss
MSD Blaster SS Coil - $50? and uselss.
MSD 8.5 mm Wires - worse than factoy wires
NGK Iridium Plugs - usless
Ebay Header - $50

And now you're halfway to a turbo kit.

 

Upgraded clutch would be useful for the longrun.

 

actually keep the single. my brother had a single in his rex and was spanking fools. 150hp and 118 tq. stock block but fully built head. just go tune. you will notice a world of difference. or like "ek forever guy" said, sell it all and swap!.

 

you will only need all of the stuff you listed + some if you have a built motor, putting external stuff on your car is useless if it is not being used/needed.

 

So pretty much, once I start messin' with more of the internals I will feel more power from the external bolt ons? Is that what your saying?

As far as camshafts go, how is the Crower Stage 2 cam? I was thinking about buying one and putting it in the car with the rest of the head being stock until I get the rest of the money for the Skunk2 valvetrain. Would there be a difference with out the valvetrain being upgraded?

 

I wouldn't run a stage 2 cam with a stock valvetrain. You will run the risk of valve-float. If you are going to get a stage 2 cam you will want dual springs and titanium retainers. You could always do the springs and retainers first and get the cam later bacause you can put the cam in without taking the head off. But you wont see any gains untill you got the cam. Some other things you might look into are high compresion valves and port matching the intake manifold to the head. The high-comp valves are designed with flat bottoms instead of the usual dished bottoms. These valves are nice because you wont change the lift or valve size, so you won't increase the risk of interference if your cam timing jumps for some reason. The cam on the other hand will increase the risk of interference. But as long as you get the timing right and get a new belt and tensioner you should be fine. A single cam has potential but it is harder than a dual cam to make power on unless you boost. If you did some head work, put in a cam and got it tuned you could make quite a bit of power without a turbo. It all depends on how much power you plan to make in the future. If you are looking for something in the 150-200hp range n/a, then the d-series is a good platform. But if you are looking for much more than that then it will start to get very expensive. I have seen 300+hp all motor single cams but they are usually full-race motors. Not something you would drive around town.

 

Any d making 160+ whp will be a pain in the *** to daily drive and probably not be all that reliable, not to mention get **** gas mileage.

And a stock ls with a good tranny will still eat your shorts.

IMO N/a d-series are for those who are trying to prove a point or break records.

What are you trying to prove? Because asking questions like you are, you definately aren't breaking n/a d-series records anytime soon.

 

As far as power wise, I would like to push somewhere around 175hp. Thats not too much to ask for out of a d-series. I am really just stuck on the high dollar parts because they seem more reliable in my mind. I am probably going to keep the car n/a for now just because my knowledge of turbos is iffy and weak. With that much horsepower the should put me at about a high 14 I hope.

For head work, I was thinkin' bout buying another cylinder head and having it redone instead of having all the downtime on my car for the work. I was thinking about having it ported and polished, Skunk2 valvetrain, Skunk2 cam gear, and a Crower stage 2 cam.

Well, for all you d-series people. I know the car comes stock with around 127 hp and now I know I am only around maybe 135hp-140hp. If I redone the cyl. head, where else should I go for more power. I am planning on converting to OBD1 and changing to a lightweight flywheel and upgrading clutch but where should I go next to get around 175 ish hp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson_racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as power wise, I would like to push somewhere around 175hp. Thats not too much to ask for out of a d-series. I am really just stuck on the high dollar parts because they seem more reliable in my mind. I am probably going to keep the car n/a for now just because my knowledge of turbos is iffy and weak. With that much horsepower the should put me at about a high 14 I hope.

For head work, I was thinkin' bout buying another cylinder head and having it redone instead of having all the downtime on my car for the work. I was thinking about having it ported and polished, Skunk2 valvetrain, Skunk2 cam gear, and a Crower stage 2 cam.

Well, for all you d-series people. I know the car comes stock with around 127 hp and now I know I am only around maybe 135hp-140hp. If I redone the cyl. head, where else should I go for more power. I am planning on converting to OBD1 and changing to a lightweight flywheel and upgrading clutch but where should I go next to get around 175 ish hp?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats power at the fly, push that through a transmission and axles, not so much...

 

yea at the wheels you're maybe looking at 110hp @ 6800 RPMs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShReK209 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually keep the single. my brother had a single in his rex and was spanking fools. 150hp and 118 tq. stock block but fully built head. just go tune. you will notice a world of difference. or like "ek forever guy" said, sell it all and swap!.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nobody said anything about swapping you brought it up, whats a fully built head?

i hate it when ricers always say yoz man itz all fully built and shitz dawg letz go street racin' and hit treez to the max yo!


and did you just tell him to go tune a stock car with bolt ons? wtf are you smoking? holy **** man 150hp!!!!!! all motor!!!! goddamn !!!!!

 

sell some of ur stuff that u have now and invest into buying a jackson racing supercharger, from what ive heard it will feel like GSR swap and it will be reliable and very daily driveable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by muhaMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sell some of ur stuff that u have now and invest into buying a jackson racing supercharger, from what ive heard it will feel like GSR swap and it will be reliable and very daily driveable</TD></TR></TABLE>

Super charger on a small displacement engine FTL.

No boosted engine will feel like ANY n/a engine.

Even with I/h/e a stock d-series MIGHT make 100whp.

To get that up to 170 without boosting you'll need to change your name to bisimoto or something.

220 is nothing to ask of a d-series with the proper bolt on. I.e. A turbo.

 

You could always use the giggle juice.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson_racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as power wise, I would like to push somewhere around 175hp. Thats not too much to ask for out of a d-series. I am really just stuck on the high dollar parts because they seem more reliable in my mind. I am probably going to keep the car n/a for now just because my knowledge of turbos is iffy and weak. With that much horsepower the should put me at about a high 14 I hope.

For head work, I was thinkin' bout buying another cylinder head and having it redone instead of having all the downtime on my car for the work. I was thinking about having it ported and polished, Skunk2 valvetrain, Skunk2 cam gear, and a Crower stage 2 cam.

Well, for all you d-series people. I know the car comes stock with around 127 hp and now I know I am only around maybe 135hp-140hp. If I redone the cyl. head, where else should I go for more power. I am planning on converting to OBD1 and changing to a lightweight flywheel and upgrading clutch but where should I go next to get around 175 ish hp?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are going to spend more money trying to make that much power na than you would if you went boost.

boost is your answer.

 

I guess there must be confusion with alot of things being said. I am not going to boost the car because of the mirror fact that I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT TURBO SYSTEMS. Thats the last thing I need, I blown up car. As far a nitrous, HELL NO. I have seen my fair share of rods blown out the sides of blocks by my friends alone. I am just wanting to build a good running n/a d-series. My expectations have decreased though, I think 150 hp would be a good accomplishment with this engine. And no, that is not at the wheels, 150 at the crank is fine by me. So if there is a d-series wiz on this site, help me out.

 

If you want around 150 bhp, then do a mini-me and I/h/e.

Nothing wrong with a turbo though, it can be just as reliable as your stock motor. And get 30+ mpg on lower boost levels.

 

good now rip it all apart, throw some bearings in it, eagle rods, forged pistons, and built the freaking thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want around 150 bhp, then do a mini-me and I/h/e.

Nothing wrong with a turbo though, it can be just as reliable as your stock motor. And get 30+ mpg on lower boost levels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would I get out of doing a mini-me to my Y8 which is already a sohc vtec engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnson_racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What would I get out of doing a mini-me to my Y8 which is already a sohc vtec engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doh, Reading &gt; me.

I've got 422 topics in my watched topics. I get a few of them confused from time to time.