i am replacing my rotors and i need to remove the 36mm axle nut. the bolt is stuck after 13 years of rust. i tried using an impact gun setting at 150 psi which is the highest i could go in my air compressor. i also tried to use an extended breaker bar, almost 3 ft long but it didn't work. i also spray some w40 on there.. but it seems helpless.... am i screw?

also i tried to remove the balljoint. i got the top one out and the steering tie rob one out. but the bottom on is stuck. i do have the ball join remove bar, but it stuck so bad no mattter how hard i tried it won't come out... maybe i need to go to the gym and build so muscle first?... please, i need some good advise

 

wow I cant believe its that suck...ok you know how theres that little opening on the axle nut..make sure you pry that back some so the axle nut if free to turn..that could be your problem...thats all I know..I have had no trouble getting my loose

 

i already did that, i got one side out, i just had problem with my passenger side.... i don't know wtf, but on my driverside, the nut is 32mm and on my passenger side it is 36... maybe some one replace the driverside axle with a different year model, but since that one had been remove before, i can get it out no problem. but i gotta deal with the 36!???!

 

they are both supposed to be 36..thats very very odd..try some PB blaster and let it sit for a long time...then set the socket on there and get alonger breaker bar and push on itwith all your might...call in a big biker dude and get him to do it lol...or you could always try a more powerful impact gun..take it to a shop and let them break it loose and tighten it with just a socket and take it back home and do it that way

 

MAN that sucks. Do the air gun again. But do it in short burst. I borrowed an electric impact gun (weaker than air gun) and it ttook mine out. It broke one breaker bar. PB blaster is a good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jetblack3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

also i tried to remove the balljoint. i got the top one out and the steering tie rob one out. but the bottom on is stuck. i do have the ball join remove bar, but it stuck so bad no mattter how hard i tried it won't come out... maybe i need to go to the gym and build so muscle first?... please, i need some good advise </TD></TR></TABLE>

so you do have the ball joint seperator but that one work?...try taking a flat piece of wood holding it under the tip of the ball joint and hitting it hard with a hammer..ive had to do that a couple of times...works like a charm

also with the axle..like i said before spray that sucker down with some PB blaster and let it sit for a good lil while so it can eat the rust...keep on using the air gun and it will start to break free from the rust..make sure you grease them puppiest up when you put them back in...keep the rust away!

 

wow, i cant belive no one has told this guy to use heat. Heating a stuck fastener is the easiest way to get it un-stuck.

Just get a propane torch and heat the axle nut up for a couple minutes. Then try your impact gun. I have the same problem on my car today too. Im doing a clutch and the one axle nut came off like butter but the other hasnt budged.. i broke 1 beaker bar and three 1/2in drive ratchets. And that **** is still stuck on there. Luckily i was able to get some play and poped the axle out of the half shaft.

But deffinatly try a propane torch.

-eric

 

Wow I cant believe I didnt think of that..thats usually my first opinion on a stuck bolt lol...oopsie daisy..yes heat will work wonders

 

first and foremost, UNSTAKE the nut with a flat head.

3/4" ratchet and cheater pipe never fails me

 

he already unstaked it as he said above

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceACCORDingly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3/4" ratchet and cheater pipe never fails me</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd hope it wouldn't, thats huge.

I've always used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a cheater pipe and the car on the ground to break the axle nuts free.

 

I agree with the heat and the 3/4" drive socket. Why not use 3/4" -- we aren't giving style points and it's unlikely that you'd ever break that.

With regard to the heat, however, I would definitely use a new nut afterward (I know you're supposed to anyway, but I also know many people don't).

 

Oh, one more thing, I've also had trouble with the lower ball joint. Honda has a cute little "fixture" that does the deed, but I've seen references to a pickle-fork from AutoZone. My forks are too large and don't do the job at all. I finally used a ball joint puller ("u" shaped puller with inward-facing feet) that I had to c-clamp in order to reduce the spread. Is there really a fork that fits? The last one I pulled popped so loudly that I thought I broke something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlhansen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, one more thing, I've also had trouble with the lower ball joint...</TD></TR></TABLE>On Hondas the balljoint nut faces out so I've always been able to use a small gear puller. It doesn't tear up the rubber boot of the balljoint.

 

Well I've got a simialr problem and didn't want to start a new thread since it's related. I can't seem to unstake the axle nut. I've tried using a chisel(broke it) a flat head screwdriver(didn't move it at all) and can't think of anything else to use. Any special or other tools that I didn't think of? Thanks for the help.

Remember they seem to be the original nuts and got staked into the hole and then about 10 degrees to the right, its staked again against the axle.

Car: 94 Accord Ex Coupe

 

you should be able to unstake it. use a screw driver. We had to hit it hard too. So keep trying.

 

Try driving a nail down thru the slot in the axle. Careful you position the point of the nail to slide under the staked part of the nut.

 

Search harder young Grasshopper...


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