Crankshaft Pulley removal
How do I get this off? I tried to stick a screw driver on one of those holes to hold but won't work cuz it still moved a little bit. Should I tried to put it on gear? Cuz I tried that way but scared about breaking something inside when I hammered it.
Need ideas.. Im helping my friend's civic 91 hatch changing his timing belt.
Need ideas.. Im helping my friend's civic 91 hatch changing his timing belt.
you can either put a solid punch in there( screw drivers would just break) and turn it like that or get a "chain wrench" i think it is called. it looks like a bar with a bigger bicycle chain at the end of it. you just wrap it around the pulley and it will hold it in place.
thats your best bet.
thats your best bet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put the car in 1st gear and another person to push the brake pedal and then take off the crank pulley</TD></TR></TABLE>
If that doesn't work (didn't work for me because my car was originally Canadian) then you can remove the flywheel inspection plate, jam a huge screwdriver in there, and break the bolt loose that way. Or just do it right and get a crank pulley bolt removal tool for a few bucks.
If that doesn't work (didn't work for me because my car was originally Canadian) then you can remove the flywheel inspection plate, jam a huge screwdriver in there, and break the bolt loose that way. Or just do it right and get a crank pulley bolt removal tool for a few bucks.
they sell tools for an easier removal too.
i just bought one from tippyman, it'll be here tomorrow.
there are plenty of 'ghetto' ways to do it, but i have a supercharged setup, and i'll be removing pulleys all the time. plus, i love a full tool box.
i just bought one from tippyman, it'll be here tomorrow.
there are plenty of 'ghetto' ways to do it, but i have a supercharged setup, and i'll be removing pulleys all the time. plus, i love a full tool box.
the chain wrench works great, that's what I used, and its come in handy with other things as well, if you happen to have a DECENT set of air tools, the impact gun might be able to hit it hard enough to get it off
This is the first time I've done civic cuz I never owned one. I've been driving preludes. Anyway, when I did change timing belt for my prelude (2yrs ago maybe), as far as I remember, I used the inverse hex crankshaft pulley tool. On this 91 hatch since it's older model they're different for me.
I tried had my friend sat down there I let him pushed the brake pedal and put it on 2nd gear. I was kind of scared because it sounds like i was breaking something inside the gearing system. Is is possible to damage anything inside if I keep breaking it this way? On the flywheel part, do I have to take the starter off to put the screw driver? where that thing located?

Modified by zirac50 at 10:48 PM 4/30/2007
I tried had my friend sat down there I let him pushed the brake pedal and put it on 2nd gear. I was kind of scared because it sounds like i was breaking something inside the gearing system. Is is possible to damage anything inside if I keep breaking it this way? On the flywheel part, do I have to take the starter off to put the screw driver? where that thing located?

Modified by zirac50 at 10:48 PM 4/30/2007
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the flywheel access panel is on the bottom. right next to the oil pan.. youll see it if you get under it and look. its a plate about 4 inches long or so with 2 bolts holding it on. you can jam up the flywheel that way..
i dont know about that breaking sound you heard... that doesnt sound good.
i dont know about that breaking sound you heard... that doesnt sound good.
i put mine in fifth gear and used a breaker bar it worked for me. the other time i used impact gun. if you have access to a impact gun it will help alot.
I couldn't get that bolt off even with my impact gun, so I did some google and found this: http://www.cadvision.com/blanc....html
Make sure you use some grade 8 bolts or they will bend easily.
Make sure you use some grade 8 bolts or they will bend easily.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they sell tools for an easier removal too.
i just bought one from tippyman, it'll be here tomorrow.
there are plenty of 'ghetto' ways to do it, but i have a supercharged setup, and i'll be removing pulleys all the time. plus, i love a full tool box. </TD></TR></TABLE>
pics:





you can add a breaker bar to one end, and a breaker bar to the actual bolt holding the pulley on, and it'll break free without using the trans gears for leverage.
plus, i can remove pulleys now while the motor is OUT of the car. makes it a lot easier since i remove and replace pulleys to provide the best boost possible on my setup.
i almost forgot..... i'll take a picture of the part number, brand, and packaging too.
i just bought one from tippyman, it'll be here tomorrow.
there are plenty of 'ghetto' ways to do it, but i have a supercharged setup, and i'll be removing pulleys all the time. plus, i love a full tool box. </TD></TR></TABLE>
pics:





you can add a breaker bar to one end, and a breaker bar to the actual bolt holding the pulley on, and it'll break free without using the trans gears for leverage.
plus, i can remove pulleys now while the motor is OUT of the car. makes it a lot easier since i remove and replace pulleys to provide the best boost possible on my setup.
i almost forgot..... i'll take a picture of the part number, brand, and packaging too.
i would just do it the way some of us have said and take the flywheel inspection plate off and stick a big screwdriver between the teeth on the flywheel and the trans bell housing and use a breaker bar and break that bi**h loose lol... ive done it many a time and its work perfectly fine... thats only when i dont have my air tools lol
thanks guys but i have not get it done yet cuz i got no time, maybe this friday. Anyway I have no air tool at all. I have seen the link that wmo7 post it and it was informative. My other question is; Does the crankshaft bolt is tightened in a different direction? I mean usually bolt is tighten clockwise, is it the same on this situation? So, if I loose this puppy I should go counterclockwise right while turning the breaker bar?
ok, I finally got the crankshaft pulley bolt thanks for the flywheel tekniks that you guys taught me. Worked really good.
Now I got the timing belt on now my problem is that there is a tming mark on the crankshaft gear but there is also a notch on the pulley. Question is, should I try to align this notch to the crankshaft mark? as well as the bolt well there is also a notch.. Cuz right now the notch on the crankshaft bolt is not align to the timing mark on the gear. what is the getto way to align this if they have to be aligned?
thanks in advance..

Now I got the timing belt on now my problem is that there is a tming mark on the crankshaft gear but there is also a notch on the pulley. Question is, should I try to align this notch to the crankshaft mark? as well as the bolt well there is also a notch.. Cuz right now the notch on the crankshaft bolt is not align to the timing mark on the gear. what is the getto way to align this if they have to be aligned?
thanks in advance..

both notches lines up and the key goes in the middle so there'll be no play on it. if your trying to line up the crank to cam tdc
1. trow the pulley back on the crank and bolt it down,
2. take out sprak plug on cyl one and put a stick that is long enough to come above ur valve cover into cylinder 1.
3. turn the crank till the stick goes all the way up - if you keep turning it'll dip back down, make sure the stick is as high up as it can go. now your crank is at tdc.
line up ur cam for tdc and put back on the belt.
the key goes into the hole when u place the crank pulley back in, without it the pulley would spin freely and not the crank - wont start basically.
1. trow the pulley back on the crank and bolt it down,
2. take out sprak plug on cyl one and put a stick that is long enough to come above ur valve cover into cylinder 1.
3. turn the crank till the stick goes all the way up - if you keep turning it'll dip back down, make sure the stick is as high up as it can go. now your crank is at tdc.
line up ur cam for tdc and put back on the belt.
the key goes into the hole when u place the crank pulley back in, without it the pulley would spin freely and not the crank - wont start basically.
Thanks but I got it timed already from top to bottom. What I mainly concern about it is, the pulley notch w/ the key, is that suppose to line up to the tming mark on the crank gear as shown on the pic?
Well my guess is not necessarily cuz it would get covered when the bolt is installed. like you said it's only for the pulley not for tming so that it would turn the crackshaft at the same time.
Well my guess is not necessarily cuz it would get covered when the bolt is installed. like you said it's only for the pulley not for tming so that it would turn the crackshaft at the same time.
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