swap didnt go so well...
I have swapped in a running ls/vtec in my 89 crx si. Im running an unchipped p28 on a B18A head with a p72 head with an after marker intake manifold with only one set of butterflies. And it doesnt run right, im using the peak 4.5v injectors with a resister box. Got the 4 wire o2 sensor. So it fires up, but idles really poor, giving to much gas will kill it. So when it finally does warm up, it barely has any power. Very very weak, timing seems to be good, the compression is about 180 across, and the plugs were flat black. So im running to rich obviosly, the injectors are stock and im not throwing any codes. So any ideas what could be making me run so rich or what could of been messed up.
im confused a bit, how are u running an LS/Vtec with a "B18A head with a p72 head with an after marker intake manifold"? please clarify this
no it runs like crap. it wouldn't need a tune to run it at stock. Its not turbo'd or super charged, i dont have over sized injectors or any thing like that. And whats confusing so confusing about my setup.
90-93 integra B18A block
94-97 integra B18C1 head
after market intake manifold,
Is there anybody that still visits these pages that has some actual knowledge
90-93 integra B18A block
94-97 integra B18C1 head
after market intake manifold,
Is there anybody that still visits these pages that has some actual knowledge
Running an unchipped p28 with your motor is going to cause problems. Get the car to a competent tuner with a wideband and have somebody tune it. I dont car what you think, a motor like an Ls/vtec needs a tune to make it run correctly. If you don't like the advise go somewhere else like the allmotor forum and see what they have to say. Believe me they're worse than us.. No offense to the allmotor guys.. It's all love..
you need to get the car tuned.. as someone said. did you have new plugs on it when you started? or are these old plugs?
also make sure your fuel pressure is right.
also make sure your fuel pressure is right.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianswty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no it runs like crap. it wouldn't need a tune to run it at stock.
Is there anybody that still visits these pages that has some actual knowledge</TD></TR></TABLE>
you misunderstood his post...
you need a program chipped for your engine.
a sohcvtec d16z6 p28 ecu is running its fuel maps for your lsvtec. ***** not gonna run right.
....talk about "actual knowledge".
Is there anybody that still visits these pages that has some actual knowledge</TD></TR></TABLE>
you misunderstood his post...
you need a program chipped for your engine.
a sohcvtec d16z6 p28 ecu is running its fuel maps for your lsvtec. ***** not gonna run right.
....talk about "actual knowledge".
Ok maybe I forgot to mention something.
I have bought the motor from somebody running already of off
this ecu. I bought it as a package deal. Already ls/vtec done and
on that ecu.
I have bought the motor from somebody running already of off
this ecu. I bought it as a package deal. Already ls/vtec done and
on that ecu.
still sounds iffy.
check the plugs and i recommend trying a new set. maybe your Fuel pressure is set incorrectly. you need to give a FULLLLLLL list of the setup, that way we can pin-point what exactly is making the car run too rich.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianswty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So it fires up, but idles really poor, giving to much gas will kill it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that almost sounds like a bad TPS.
check the plugs and i recommend trying a new set. maybe your Fuel pressure is set incorrectly. you need to give a FULLLLLLL list of the setup, that way we can pin-point what exactly is making the car run too rich.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianswty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So it fires up, but idles really poor, giving to much gas will kill it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that almost sounds like a bad TPS.
is the tps wired backwards? is the fuel pressure regulator vacumme line hooked on? is the map hooked up to the right spot? is the throttle plate stuck part way open making the tps voltage off? are the cams off a tooth cam timing?is the o2 sensor bad?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianswty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I have swapped in a running ls/vtec in my 89 crx si. Im running an unchipped p28 on a B18A head with a p72 head with.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you ever drive in the car buddy had this engine in? If not, are you just assuming that it ran great with an unchipped P28?
Did you ever drive in the car buddy had this engine in? If not, are you just assuming that it ran great with an unchipped P28?
make sure that the wires going to the vtec distributor are correct, simply put match colors from distributor to colors to the ecu. also make sure your ground on the head cover, thermostat housing, and transmission are good. you should not need a tune to idle and run normally either. As for tune and ecu i would just save and buy a p72 in the future.
Ok well I have all new ngk's in there and im not throwing any check engine
lights, so wouldn't that say that all the sensors all hooked up correctly.
And yeah I do have all those grounds on there.
Is there a possibility that the sensors are hooked up incorrectly and not throwing any codes.
lights, so wouldn't that say that all the sensors all hooked up correctly.
And yeah I do have all those grounds on there.
Is there a possibility that the sensors are hooked up incorrectly and not throwing any codes.
the only thing that i can think of other than the answers this guys gave you is that you hooked up the TPS plug on the IACV and the other way around.
Ok so I swapped my cap, rotor and plugs, and played with the distributor and now the
car runs a lot better, it actually stays running while its cold by its self. So now I know that my timing has to be off. Which I dont know how that happen I had a honda mechanic do it. That actually works at honda. But I do have after marker cams on there. Oh well I'll have to figure that out.
But now even a better thing happened I finally got a check engine light. I got code 8
which is top dead center. TDC; so could anybody colabarate on this code for me please.
car runs a lot better, it actually stays running while its cold by its self. So now I know that my timing has to be off. Which I dont know how that happen I had a honda mechanic do it. That actually works at honda. But I do have after marker cams on there. Oh well I'll have to figure that out.
But now even a better thing happened I finally got a check engine light. I got code 8
which is top dead center. TDC; so could anybody colabarate on this code for me please.
You can be getting that TDC code from the timing on the intake cam being off. I had this problem with an LS swap I did for someone and I couldn't figure it out until I checked his cam timing. It was retarded like 2 teeth or something I forget but once I re-timed the engine the damn code went away and so did the phantom rev limiter. Amazing what happens when **** is right ain't it? lol... hope this helps!
yeah the timing was actually a little off, luckily I had adjustable cam gears.
So that fixed that problem, but now that the timing is set right it actually seems to
be running a little worse.
And we had sprayed a little (really just a little) starting fluid in it. And it sounded a lot better. Just keeping the idle stedy and spraying just a little in it.
So that fixed that problem, but now that the timing is set right it actually seems to
be running a little worse.
And we had sprayed a little (really just a little) starting fluid in it. And it sounded a lot better. Just keeping the idle stedy and spraying just a little in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Janos Lin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U are not running the right tune for that motor. Chip it and get the right tune on it.
Janos
</TD></TR></TABLE> Once again ^^^
It's running a bit better with the starter fluid because its providing extra fuel. As just about anyone can tell you, if you have too many problems going on, its gonna be a bitch to figure out. Eliminate the variables and you have less to deal with and it becomes easier to tell what's wrong.
Also, please differentiate between ingition timing and cam timing. Did you set cam timing back to 0 degrees on both cams with the crank at TDC? After that, jumper the connector and reset distributor timing?
What im wondering about all this is how can this have all those problems when that "someone" had it "running." Maybe he had problems also and didnt want to deal with it so just sold it all.
Janos
Janos
</TD></TR></TABLE> Once again ^^^
It's running a bit better with the starter fluid because its providing extra fuel. As just about anyone can tell you, if you have too many problems going on, its gonna be a bitch to figure out. Eliminate the variables and you have less to deal with and it becomes easier to tell what's wrong.
Also, please differentiate between ingition timing and cam timing. Did you set cam timing back to 0 degrees on both cams with the crank at TDC? After that, jumper the connector and reset distributor timing?
What im wondering about all this is how can this have all those problems when that "someone" had it "running." Maybe he had problems also and didnt want to deal with it so just sold it all.
Janos
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