5th gen supercharger or turbo??
Hey,
I have a 99 prelude and im thinking about either turbo it or supercharging it. I dont know which one i should choose. I need help on figuring out which one would give me more hp. Also I was wondering would i have to do major motor work to put either one of these in?
Thanks
I have a 99 prelude and im thinking about either turbo it or supercharging it. I dont know which one i should choose. I need help on figuring out which one would give me more hp. Also I was wondering would i have to do major motor work to put either one of these in?
Thanks
supercharger is pretty easy to put on but they are not worth the money. you will probably only see 230hp to the wheels
turbo is a little bit more involved, not hard really but does require a little more time in some cases. your hp potential is much greater here. stock h22's can hold 280whp easily with a good tune
turbo is a little bit more involved, not hard really but does require a little more time in some cases. your hp potential is much greater here. stock h22's can hold 280whp easily with a good tune
Yeah, a blower probably won't get you past 230-240whp, but with a turbo setup the sky is the limit. Yes, you have to learn about engines and do some work to get either of these to work well, but something tells me you're just daydreaming anyway...
If not, read the Prelude FAQs and go from there.
If not, read the Prelude FAQs and go from there.
So would be able to throw a turbo in and not have to do any internal work whatsoever? But how much boost do you think I would be able to run?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaH22a#1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So would be able to throw a turbo in and not have to do any internal work whatsoever? But how much boost do you think I would be able to run?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no internal work needed.
its not about psi its about hp. shoot for 280 hp that is a safe number to go with
no internal work needed.
its not about psi its about hp. shoot for 280 hp that is a safe number to go with
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzCivic1.6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmmm, 230 whp sounds nice. I'd go supercharger as long as the whine is not annoying. Boost creep has led to many blow engines, superchargers don't have such a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whine annoying? Ha, it sounds better then the moans of worn out girl you might have for a one night stand.
Whine annoying? Ha, it sounds better then the moans of worn out girl you might have for a one night stand.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ilikehonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no internal work needed.
its not about psi its about hp. shoot for 280 hp that is a safe number to go with</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock internals stay within 7-8 psi. I'm also working on a turbo for my 97 SH most say stay in that psi range other wise you need to sleeve the block, forged piston,forged rods, ect.
no internal work needed.
its not about psi its about hp. shoot for 280 hp that is a safe number to go with</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock internals stay within 7-8 psi. I'm also working on a turbo for my 97 SH most say stay in that psi range other wise you need to sleeve the block, forged piston,forged rods, ect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaH22a#1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think I should throw in some type s pistons and cams just to be safe or would it make no difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no need for the pistons or the cams... it would make a difference but you can get to your hp goal with the stock motor you have.
DO NOT USE PSI TO JUDGE HOW MUCH A MOTOR CAN TAKE!!!!!!!
it is NOT about boost it is about hp. horsepower breaks things not boost. so do not listen to the jokers that say 6-7 psi. shoot for a hp goal of 280-300whp and whatever psi you are at is good enough.
ive seen guys running 12-13 psi on t25's and 9 psi on t3/t4's and make 280-300hp
no need for the pistons or the cams... it would make a difference but you can get to your hp goal with the stock motor you have.
DO NOT USE PSI TO JUDGE HOW MUCH A MOTOR CAN TAKE!!!!!!!
it is NOT about boost it is about hp. horsepower breaks things not boost. so do not listen to the jokers that say 6-7 psi. shoot for a hp goal of 280-300whp and whatever psi you are at is good enough.
ive seen guys running 12-13 psi on t25's and 9 psi on t3/t4's and make 280-300hp
actually dude PSI is a great thing to judge on how much a motor could take... BOOST is what blows the motor...HORSEPOWER is directly related to BOOST in turbo engines obviously. im running 9 psi on my stock block and intend on getting it sleaved and new pistons just to be on the safe side. too much boost will blow your motor on an h22 or any car for that matter. for those guys you've seen runnings 12 - 13 second cars with turbo's they probably either have a built engine or your talking about a different engine in the car which is not an h22 so yeah... if those guys were running tons of psi on a stock h22 then they probably wouldn't have it for very long...
the most common reason for failure on boosted honda motors is heat, because more pressure = more heat......so if u use a smaller turbo it would need more pressure to produce equivalent power compared to a larger turbo. Thats also something to consider.
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in response to the whole boost/heat issue. If your using a supercharger your going to be boosting whatever psi lets say 8-9 psi, but in order to drive the supercharger your going to be wasting a good 50 hp just to make that extra 90-100. Example with top fuel dragsters, they make close to 8000hp but the massive blower takes over 500 hp to drive it at max boost due to parasitic loss. Also with the heat issue, your not going to be using a centrifugal style blower so your not going to be able to intercool it(roots blowers are notorious for heat generation), your going to lose more power to the heatsink effect and the increased charge temp.
With turbo, you get your power from the wasted exhaust gas energy, so you dont have the parasitic loss of power from any drive belts. You can boost 8-9 psi and instead of just gaining 100 hp like the SC did, you keep that 50 hp that it took to drive the SC and end up making 150 hp at the same pressure. Also the temp will be MUCH less since you can intercool the charge (not to mention get the intimidation factor going with the FMIC). You will have a tiny pressure loss across the IC but you will have significantly lower EGT, and a lower EGT means MORE POWER! anyways SC is a waste of money, and a waste of power. Turbo is a bolt on part and is easy to replace, wrap the turbine side in a heat blanket and you wont have to worry about underhood temps rising too much. Also IMO the non-linear powerband AWESOME its like VTECx10. Thats about it, just my $0.02. Enjoy.
PS. one more thing as far as tunability the ability to simply turn a **** in a boost controller or adjust a wastegate gives you FAR more control over your afr, without changing PITA belts and pullies. turbo ftw
With turbo, you get your power from the wasted exhaust gas energy, so you dont have the parasitic loss of power from any drive belts. You can boost 8-9 psi and instead of just gaining 100 hp like the SC did, you keep that 50 hp that it took to drive the SC and end up making 150 hp at the same pressure. Also the temp will be MUCH less since you can intercool the charge (not to mention get the intimidation factor going with the FMIC). You will have a tiny pressure loss across the IC but you will have significantly lower EGT, and a lower EGT means MORE POWER! anyways SC is a waste of money, and a waste of power. Turbo is a bolt on part and is easy to replace, wrap the turbine side in a heat blanket and you wont have to worry about underhood temps rising too much. Also IMO the non-linear powerband AWESOME its like VTECx10. Thats about it, just my $0.02. Enjoy.
PS. one more thing as far as tunability the ability to simply turn a **** in a boost controller or adjust a wastegate gives you FAR more control over your afr, without changing PITA belts and pullies. turbo ftw
Thanks, your explination was very helpful for me! Just one part that I did not understand was the "Also IMO the non-linear powerband AWESOME its like VTECx10."??? So everyone on here has convinced me to go with the turbo! Now I have to look for a good turbo set up for the 5th gen lude. Any suggestions????
Thanks
Thanks
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a non linear powerband is one in which the graph is a spike to peak not a gradiant to drop off. Build your own kit, learn what you want as far as performance and streetability then contact turbonetics and have them build you a turbo, tell them exactly what you want and they will match a turbo right for your needs. It costs a little bit more then just grabbing any old turbo and strapping to your motor but it will have a lifetime warranty and will be exactly what you want. Your kit you can do it yourself just read up on what is needed, read the book by Corkey Bell its called Maximum boost, it will tell you everything you need to know on turbos and turbo setups. I knew absolutely nothing about boosting my car, but i had recently purchased a supra and wanted to make it faster, so i bought that book and within a month i was customizing my own set up...anyways good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IIVIIoOkY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually dude PSI is a great thing to judge on how much a motor could take... BOOST is what blows the motor...HORSEPOWER is directly related to BOOST in turbo engines obviously. im running 9 psi on my stock block and intend on getting it sleaved and new pistons just to be on the safe side. too much boost will blow your motor on an h22 or any car for that matter. for those guys you've seen runnings 12 - 13 second cars with turbo's they probably either have a built engine or your talking about a different engine in the car which is not an h22 so yeah... if those guys were running tons of psi on a stock h22 then they probably wouldn't have it for very long...</TD></TR></TABLE>
here ya go. yes boost does = hp but so does compressor size, wheel etc etc if you know how to read compressor maps you will know what im talking about.
take this for example (ive done it several times)
stock usdm h22
t25@ 9 lbs = 240ish whp
t3/t4 57 trim @ 9 lbs = 280ish whp
t3 60-1@ 9lbs = 300ish whp
see the point here so if you were to run a t25 you may be looking at 12-13 psi to = the boost of the t3/t4. yes the pressure in can blow the ring lands, so if you get a properly sized turbo for you hp goal, that is not an issue
here ya go. yes boost does = hp but so does compressor size, wheel etc etc if you know how to read compressor maps you will know what im talking about.
take this for example (ive done it several times)
stock usdm h22
t25@ 9 lbs = 240ish whp
t3/t4 57 trim @ 9 lbs = 280ish whp
t3 60-1@ 9lbs = 300ish whp
see the point here so if you were to run a t25 you may be looking at 12-13 psi to = the boost of the t3/t4. yes the pressure in can blow the ring lands, so if you get a properly sized turbo for you hp goal, that is not an issue
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlownH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With turbo, you get your power from the wasted exhaust gas energy, so you dont have the parasitic loss of power from any drive belts. You can boost 8-9 psi and instead of just gaining 100 hp like the SC did, you keep that 50 hp that it took to drive the SC and end up making 150 hp at the same pressure. Also the temp will be MUCH less since you can intercool the charge (not to mention get the intimidation factor going with the FMIC). You will have a tiny pressure loss across the IC but you will have significantly lower EGT, and a lower EGT means MORE POWER! anyways SC is a waste of money, and a waste of power. Turbo is a bolt on part and is easy to replace, wrap the turbine side in a heat blanket and you wont have to worry about underhood temps rising too much. Also IMO the non-linear powerband AWESOME its like VTECx10. Thats about it, just my $0.02. Enjoy.
PS. one more thing as far as tunability the ability to simply turn a **** in a boost controller or adjust a wastegate gives you FAR more control over your afr, without changing PITA belts and pullies. turbo ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes but a turbo is a good restriction on your exhaust. And you also have to consider the negatives of Turbo too. Boost creep, wastegate failure, oil line issues. It has its downs too. And turbos dont give you a lost of power out of corners due to lag.
BUT we have seen dyno proof of a 300whp JRSC 5th gen wish i remembered his name, he is my idol, but...
So it kinda boils down to: Less power/On demand, or More power/when spooled >5K
PS. one more thing as far as tunability the ability to simply turn a **** in a boost controller or adjust a wastegate gives you FAR more control over your afr, without changing PITA belts and pullies. turbo ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes but a turbo is a good restriction on your exhaust. And you also have to consider the negatives of Turbo too. Boost creep, wastegate failure, oil line issues. It has its downs too. And turbos dont give you a lost of power out of corners due to lag.
BUT we have seen dyno proof of a 300whp JRSC 5th gen wish i remembered his name, he is my idol, but...
So it kinda boils down to: Less power/On demand, or More power/when spooled >5K
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i think all imports should be turbo'ed. superchargers belong on muscle cars

