I'm clueless as to the setting I should be aiming for the endlinks on the ST sway bar....? Anyone know how to adjust the endlinks? I really dont know if I have an accurate settting and have no idea where the adjustment should lie.

Thanks!

 

what kind of bar do you have if its ST, basically there are different holes on the L brackets that mount by the bottom of the shock tower. For the best setting, truely its all personal opinion, seeing that some people like to have it on the one closest to the 90 degree angle, and some like to have it to the out most...it all depends and correlates with other suspension mods "i.e. shocks, springs, drop, strut bars/braces, tires, wheel size, offset, etc." its all personal taste so just play around with it and see what you like

 

Ahhh, so there is no specified setting... humm... I really like the setting now, I just thought it had to be adjusted a certain way.

Cool then... thanks a lot bro.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm4drSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahhh, so there is no specified setting... humm... I really like the setting now, I just thought it had to be adjusted a certain way.

Cool then... thanks a lot bro.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

also remember not to preload the bar. it should be re-connected when the car is on the ground not in the air

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also remember not to preload the bar. it should be re-connected when the car is on the ground not in the air</TD></TR></TABLE> hahaha i've seen that done no good at all

 

d'oh! How am I suppose to connect the endlinks with the car lowered?

 

rent a midget

 

thats why buying the bar before lowering it is recommended. But seriously you can probably go to like an exhaust shop that has a lift that lifts the whole car "not just by frame thereby spacing the chassis from the wheel assembly, and just ask the guy if you can use it for like 10 bucks for like 5 minutes...if not, you can definity reach and adjust on the floor

 

Damn, I have the sway hooked up and bolted the end links with it suspended... it feels good, but it's rubbing on my muffler.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm4drSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, I have the sway hooked up and bolted the end links with it suspended... it feels good, but it's rubbing on my muffler.</TD></TR></TABLE> I had to reroute mine when i put it on, just needs to be raised a bit...seriously though go to an exhaust shop and have them fix it, and while its happening be like wait can i adjust something on my car. Super Muffler in El Monte, good people they would probably let you do it for free...but don't tell them i told you good prices...

 

cool, thanks man.

What are the repercussions of having it adjusted while suspended?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm4drSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, thanks man.

What are the repercussions of having it adjusted while suspended?</TD></TR></TABLE>its because while on the floor the weight of the car is on the shocks, but in the air its basically free weight...easy stupid correlation...get a rubber band and stretch it so that is very tight...i mean very tight, now once its way tight pull a little more this will represent what happens. I'm not actually saying that the bar will snap or anything like that, but its not what you adjusted it to so its kind of pointless...

damn that is a horrible representation but im @ work so what the hell

 

Oh my god. I've never read such a misinformed thread ever in my life.

First off, the three different positions in the sway bar ends will each have a different stiffness effect. This will make the car looser or tighter. If you don't know what I mean by "looser or tighter" I suggest you put the bolt in the setting at the end of the bar.

To correctly remove preload from the swaybar set the car on a perfectly level surface and adjust the length of the end links so that there is no tension on the bar when the endlinks are installed. Ta-da.

Check the range of motion for the suspension to be sure nothing is hitting or binding. This may mean you have to lengthen or shorten the endlinks. Repeat the preload removal process if you change the lenght of the endlinks.

Next, do some research on suspension components and how they work. After that, go auto-x to find out what it all feels like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by glagola1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh my god. I've never read such a misinformed thread ever in my life.

First off, the three different positions in the sway bar ends will each have a different stiffness effect. This will make the car looser or tighter. If you don't know what I mean by "looser or tighter" I suggest you put the bolt in the setting at the end of the bar.

To correctly remove preload from the swaybar set the car on a perfectly level surface and adjust the length of the end links so that there is no tension on the bar when the endlinks are installed. Ta-da.

Check the range of motion for the suspension to be sure nothing is hitting or binding. This may mean you have to lengthen or shorten the endlinks. Repeat the preload removal process if you change the lenght of the endlinks.

Next, do some research on suspension components and how they work. After that, go auto-x to find out what it all feels like.</TD></TR></TABLE> how does that differ from the information above ...hahaha seriously that is all restated information ...the stiffness of the bar is effected by the pieces of your whole suspension set up...and no matter what it will hit the exhaust not "hitting or binding on anything else" if so the bar is installed wrong. no matter what hole on the L bracket you have it on with some cars it will always hit the exhaust...how is this thread misinformed...thanks for restating the obvious and being a jerk

 

Humm, well... the St instructions were very pathetic, in that it had NO instructions on endlink adjustment.

 

damn im just doing this as well....my car is really low and im running wheels&tires that end up being the same size as the stock ones on an SI... I just installed it all as i bought it from another guy, made sure the endlinks were straight and not spun on their joint and tightened it. I did loosen the bushings when i installed, and retightened after, but it will be a hell of a pain in the *** to adjust these things while it's on the ground. I guess its time to buy a nice craftsman floorjack and have a nice workout

 

I attempted to see if I fit while my car was lowered and I was able to barely get in there to install them, so I might just be able to pull it off. The issue now is finding a leveled area.

I think I'm gonna have to use the top whole to lower the strut bracket more, too high for the endlink to reach. heh...

 

just get a pair of this

http://www.rhinoramps.com/home.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wm07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a pair of this

http://www.rhinoramps.com/home.html

</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like a plan....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wm07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a pair of this

http://www.rhinoramps.com/home.html

</TD></TR></TABLE> you should get four because you want the car level but still two would be closer to level then jacking it up

 

it does make sense as the point was to make the car level...