Have any of you installed a Honda hydraulic pedal assembly in a CRX or EF so you can run a hydraulic tranny?
I'm getting ready to bite the bullet and do it on my Civic (http://www.theoldone.com/articles/La...rrys_Civic.htm).
If any of you have any tips, let me know.
Thanks,
Larry

 

try and PM "BigTuna", he did it in his CRX and hasnt had a single issue

 

Easiest thing is a cable to hydro conversion at the tranny then the pedals. Why do a full conversion when you don't have too?

 

I WILL be buying this..

http://www.innovativemounts.co...41001

badass idea

 

If you go to the link I provided, you'll see that I've done all of the cable to hydraulic conversions (both Hasport and Innovative). I was able to modify the hasport so it worked. The Innovative had so much flex in it that we never even attempted to drive the car with it.
I'm running twin disk clutches in the car to enable clean shifting above 10K, and even with my latest mod (buying a new 93GSR tranny case and installing the guts from my ITR trans in it), there's still far too much pedal travel involved. With just enough play to prevent the throw-out bearing from touching the fingers, you have to push the pedal within 1" of the floor just to make the clutch release.....and that makes driving too much of an effort.
I have the same clutch in my ITR and it disengages about 1" from the top of the pedal, so clutch action is quick (and just the opposite of the Civic).
At any rate, I have a new style carbon/carbon twin disk clutch on the way, and I figure the best way to make it work (right) is to put the transmission gears back in the ITR case, and convert the car to hydraulic all the way...
I'll PM Big Tuna.
Thanks guys,
Larry

 

I see. Well PM 2point2. He did also with an H22 into his CRX.

 

I've done the conversion on my CRX.

I cut the stock clutch pedal completely off. Then I welded some 3/16" flat stock (mild steel) to the pedal assembly to re-enforce it along the left side of the brake pedal bracket. To that I welded a 1/8" thick angle bracket about 4" long. I then bolted a Tilton reverse swing single pedal to it.

I use a Tilton 3/4" m/c on the pedal assembly w/remote reservoir. The reservoir is mounted in the engine bay and connected via a 1/2 rubber hose that runs through the stock clutch cable port in the firewall.

Now, on my CRX I run a tilton carbon/carbon twin disk w a hydraulic t/o bearing. The pedal pressure is very light and doesn't put much stress on the pedal at all. It actually feels lighter than stock.

The bad news is.... Tilton no longer makes single reverse mount pedal assembly’s, Wilwood.

The only one I've seen on the market lately is made by CNC Brakes. But looking at pictures of it, the mounting of it might be a little different.


There is more than one way to skin a cat though.

 

did you click the innovative link?

this is different than what you're thinking I read the info on your car a while ago and saw what you used.

 

That's the innovative stuff I bought and it didn't work as well as the (stock) Hasport kit.

 

The idea of using a cable to actuate a hydraulic MC always seemed kind of silly to me.

Here's 2point2's hydraulic pedal assembly install.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=721037
Not a terribly helpful thread, IMO.

I would love to do this with my H22 swap.

 

I switched back to cable because hydro was a PITA. It never felt right and it was very hard on the CRX pedal assembly. I didn't however have a lot of fabrication experience when I did that modification - I could probably invent a much better mouse trap if I had another go at it.

Now i'm having an issue with the weak crx cable (i think) after switching to hasport style adapter. lol.

Larry, one tip I can give you is that prelude/accord master cylinders have external reservoirs. They're much nicer to experiment with... but you're probably looking for a complete aftermarket clutch pedal assembly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Larry, one tip I can give you is that prelude/accord master cylinders have external reservoirs. They're much nicer to experiment with....</TD></TR></TABLE> i was just going to say; have you done the prelude 15/16 mc upgrade first. It should take a lot of the travel out of the pedal.

 

I bought a used 94 Interga pedal assy with master cylinder and the remote fluid container to "investigate" fitment before buyng all-new hydraulic componentry. I'll likely get the dash out of the car towards the end of the week and begin "engineering" the pieces i'll need. I plan on locating the reservoir under the hood, and the master cylinder will be in the inside of the firewall. I'll hard line it all the way to the frame beside the tranny and go with flex from there.
I'm quite sure there will be a lot of cutting and fabrication involved, but it's "that" time of year again!
I appreciate your input and I'll document it with pictures for any of you who may want to do the same thing.
Larry

 

hey 2point2.
Take a hose clamp and put it around the rubber buscuit on the pedal end of the clutch cable. It'll prevent it from flexing and you'll enjoy the benefits. I also put a clamp around the rubber biscuit on the throw-out arm end and that helped as well.
Larry

 

What happened to using a YS1 transmission? I just installed my built-YS1 in this weekend. Works great, just like my S1 transmission.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ENDYN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey 2point2.
Take a hose clamp and put it around the rubber buscuit on the pedal end of the clutch cable. It'll prevent it from flexing and you'll enjoy the benefits. I also put a clamp around the rubber biscuit on the throw-out arm end and that helped as well.
Larry</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for looking out Larry! I'm bringing a bad of hose clamps to the next EF meet lol

I actually stumbled upon this tip yesterday after doing some searching about clutch cable stretch issues. It's not a very well known tip but can save a major headache.

EVERYONE with a performance cable clutch should do this right now! I think I did something internally to my tranny after doing a really hard 1-2 shift without the clutch completely disengaged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ENDYN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you go to the link I provided, you'll see that I've done all of the cable to hydraulic conversions (both Hasport and Innovative). I was able to modify the hasport so it worked. The Innovative had so much flex in it that we never even attempted to drive the car with it.
I'm running twin disk clutches in the car to enable clean shifting above 10K, and even with my latest mod (buying a new 93GSR tranny case and installing the guts from my ITR trans in it), there's still far too much pedal travel involved. With just enough play to prevent the throw-out bearing from touching the fingers, you have to push the pedal within 1" of the floor just to make the clutch release.....and that makes driving too much of an effort.
I have the same clutch in my ITR and it disengages about 1" from the top of the pedal, so clutch action is quick (and just the opposite of the Civic).
At any rate, I have a new style carbon/carbon twin disk clutch on the way, and I figure the best way to make it work (right) is to put the transmission gears back in the ITR case, and convert the car to hydraulic all the way...
I'll PM Big Tuna.
Thanks guys,
Larry</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe the problem is with the person installing the product. I personally have the Innovative one on my car with ZERO problems. its not big and bulky and there is NO way its going to flex. I think you are thinking of the old place racing one. You might want to look into this one. http://www.innovativemounts.co...41001 . This is completely different then anything on the market.

 

I'm not thinking of the Place Racing kits. As I mentioned, I'm running a twin disk clutch. I've run the unit from Clutchmasters and I finally settled on the Competition Clutch version. Both clutches are variations of the Quartermaster twin. Although I'm using the lowest pressure plate diaphram, it still takes a LOT of pressure on the pedal (and linkage) end to release the clutch. This is NOT caused by installation mistakes, it's caused because the Honda throw-out bearing contacts the diaphram fingers in the middle, not at their tips, so we really don't have any mechanical advantage to speak of.
I mentioned earlier that I have a new carbon-carbon clutch (of an entirely different design) coming from Competition Clutch. The plate pressure is about the same as the twins I currently have, and I haven't seen the clutch, so I don't know what the diameter of the diaphram is, or what the mechanical advantage will be. Once it arrives, I'll do some measuring and get on with the program.
I'm also replacing the Quaife (which I managed to break taking a friend for a quarter mile run). Hopefully, I'll be able to configure some slippage into the new system and life will be easier on the driveline.
I should also mention that the folks at Hasport will also tell you that their cable/hydraulic conversion doesn't work well with the twin disk clutched I've mentioned, so should any of you elect to go that route, I believe you'll find that converting to hydraulic all the way will be the only solution to the problem.

 

Larry, I look forward to any progress / insight you'll find on converting to a hydraulic pedal assembly. I've been debating for eons on going to a hydraulic transmission (SOHC) and beyond the obvious mount issues the only thing stopping me from diving head first was the clutch pedal and designing a system that would work while at the same time retaining my car for its daily uses.

- Edwin

 

Larry, Tilton makes hydraulic T/O bearings that have a smaller diameter contact surface if you need more mechanical advantage on the pressure plate.

They also have flow control valves that allow full flow to disengage the clutch but reduce the return flow on engagement to reduce driveline shock. This lets you tune in a bit of slip for a short amount of time.

 

Check out this link for possible downside...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1962480

 

As I said earlier, I finally replaced my transmission case with a "93 GSR piece to convert the transmission to a factory cable combination. It works, but not much better than any of the cable to hydraulic kits...especially the Hasport that we modified (heavily). If you've looked at the article, you can see that we made steel braces to eliminate flex, and we also built a pirce to keep the cable aligned.
While I haven't posted pictures of the set-up with the cable GSR case, we also fabbed similar pieces to keep everything aligned, eliminating side-motion that could cause the cable to break.
I've been driving the car like this for a year now, and other than the extremely heavy pedal (it reminds me of some of my 1960's drag clutches), nothing has broken. I may just be lucky....

 

why not make the arm the cable attaches to longer. its just a lever, the longer it is the less force required to move the bearing/pp. this would of course make pedal travel longer but IMO reliability is greatly improved. less strain on the pedal assembly and cable.

 

I think I saw another hydro conversion on here where someone had the reservoir mounted under the dash, but that seems like a really unsafe combination.

 

Get rid of the clutch cable all together, my new setup will use a CNC reverse throw master cylinder. Most aftermarket clutch master cylinders have the reserve behind the pedal assembly, there is very little room between the pedal placement and the fire wall in a EF. The master cylinder I will be using has the reserve infront of the pedal which makes is easier to fit under the dash with out fire wall clearance issues.