Heat still not working any other ideas??
Alright guys so I posted this already and searched for my original post which seems to have been deleted I guess.
Anyway
1996 Civic Hatch
completley stock original d16y7
So my problem is a couple days ago it was hot out so I switched over to ac during the day at night it got chilly so I whent to put on the heat and it kept blowing Outside temperature air no matter wher i put the selector.
Things I have tried are as follows
Hooked up hose to one end of heater core inlet and pumped water through system came gushing out opposite end so there is no clog in the heater core.
Took out Thermostat and threw in boiling water for like 5 minutes pulled it out it was completely open which obviously means there are no flow problems in the goose neck.
Car does not everheat or anything so I dont think it is the Headgasket even though I dont see how this would affect my heat.
Things I have noticed.
Pipes going in and out of the heater core inlet and outlet are hot which obviously means there is flow going through the heater core.
Cable to the vent door is attached and moves the outer mechanism on the bottom of the airbox.
If the car runs to operating temp and you select heat you can feel slightly warmer air then the cabin air blowing out but basically only through the foot vents. Although it is warmer it is not significant enough to warm air in any means.
If there is anything else you guys would like to know that may help you come to a conclusion please ask ill inform as much as possible I would just like to have heat so i can be warm on those colder spring and summer nights.
And thanks in advance for any help
Anyway
1996 Civic Hatch
completley stock original d16y7
So my problem is a couple days ago it was hot out so I switched over to ac during the day at night it got chilly so I whent to put on the heat and it kept blowing Outside temperature air no matter wher i put the selector.
Things I have tried are as follows
Hooked up hose to one end of heater core inlet and pumped water through system came gushing out opposite end so there is no clog in the heater core.
Took out Thermostat and threw in boiling water for like 5 minutes pulled it out it was completely open which obviously means there are no flow problems in the goose neck.
Car does not everheat or anything so I dont think it is the Headgasket even though I dont see how this would affect my heat.
Things I have noticed.
Pipes going in and out of the heater core inlet and outlet are hot which obviously means there is flow going through the heater core.
Cable to the vent door is attached and moves the outer mechanism on the bottom of the airbox.
If the car runs to operating temp and you select heat you can feel slightly warmer air then the cabin air blowing out but basically only through the foot vents. Although it is warmer it is not significant enough to warm air in any means.
If there is anything else you guys would like to know that may help you come to a conclusion please ask ill inform as much as possible I would just like to have heat so i can be warm on those colder spring and summer nights.
And thanks in advance for any help
I had someone come to me asking about the same type of problem. What it ended up being was the Hot - Cold cable was screwed up under the dash and wasnt opening the valve completely. Have someone inside the car and have them move the cable hot and cold and keep an eye on the valve, if its not opening and closing completely then go from there.
Has been checked it is moving the mechanism under the dash for the most part. After selecting heat you can push it like a couple "mm" further back but thats it. It doesnt allow it to blow any more heat that way either. Thanks for that though my freind came up with that and we tried it didnt help any.
Bump I still hold my policy person to fix it gets payed 25-50$
Bump I still hold my policy person to fix it gets payed 25-50$
put on a thick winter coat.
bam, gimme 20 bucks
just kiddin.
man i dunno what it could be, if coolant is flowing through...and its hot coolant, and nothing is clogged...you should have heat.
are you running a fever?
bam, gimme 20 bucks

just kiddin.
man i dunno what it could be, if coolant is flowing through...and its hot coolant, and nothing is clogged...you should have heat.
are you running a fever?
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When you select heat, whether it is a mechanical slider or a button, there are two control cables which move - one opens the valve to let hot coolant into the heater core, the other one opens a flapper to redirect air over the heater core and not over the evaporator core. To me it sounds like this later cable is not doing it's job. The cable could have come loose from the flapper door or the motor / handle which controls it. The tab it connects to on the flapper door may have also busted off. You need to pull your center console and look at the back of the climate control unit to see if everything looks copacetic. If it does, then you need to look at the flapper door at the heater core, which may mean pulling the dash.
sounds like a bad water valve a lot times the heater valve will move and looks like it is working but the ball valve is stripped out i have seen this a lot on accords and some civics to check this see if the is the problem. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoHc94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there ne antifreeze in yur floorboard?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No there is not sir nor the smell of burning antifreeze heater core is good as gold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you select heat, whether it is a mechanical slider or a button, there are two control cables which move - one opens the valve to let hot coolant into the heater core, the other one opens a flapper to redirect air over the heater core and not over the evaporator core. To me it sounds like this later cable is not doing it's job. The cable could have come loose from the flapper door or the motor / handle which controls it. The tab it connects to on the flapper door may have also busted off. You need to pull your center console and look at the back of the climate control unit to see if everything looks copacetic. If it does, then you need to look at the flapper door at the heater core, which may mean pulling the dash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have checked the flapper cable just by getting down there the cable is attached and moving the flapper when the selector is moved back and forth. So is it possible that the flapper door broke inside somehow and isnt being moved by the by the selector cable?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bad water valve a lot times the heater valve will move and looks like it is working but the ball valve is stripped out i have seen this a lot on accords and some civics to check this see if the is the problem. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the release valve while flushing out my entire coolant system I put on the heat and pumped water through the assembly, Water came out the opposite tube as fast as it went in. I think the valve is still good and when the selector is moved from fresh to hot air the valve cable moves the valve open and shut.
Applebees bump
No there is not sir nor the smell of burning antifreeze heater core is good as gold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you select heat, whether it is a mechanical slider or a button, there are two control cables which move - one opens the valve to let hot coolant into the heater core, the other one opens a flapper to redirect air over the heater core and not over the evaporator core. To me it sounds like this later cable is not doing it's job. The cable could have come loose from the flapper door or the motor / handle which controls it. The tab it connects to on the flapper door may have also busted off. You need to pull your center console and look at the back of the climate control unit to see if everything looks copacetic. If it does, then you need to look at the flapper door at the heater core, which may mean pulling the dash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have checked the flapper cable just by getting down there the cable is attached and moving the flapper when the selector is moved back and forth. So is it possible that the flapper door broke inside somehow and isnt being moved by the by the selector cable?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtapia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a bad water valve a lot times the heater valve will move and looks like it is working but the ball valve is stripped out i have seen this a lot on accords and some civics to check this see if the is the problem. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the release valve while flushing out my entire coolant system I put on the heat and pumped water through the assembly, Water came out the opposite tube as fast as it went in. I think the valve is still good and when the selector is moved from fresh to hot air the valve cable moves the valve open and shut.
Applebees bump
Hey I had a 92 CX that had that problem. Check below/behind your glovebox where the hot/cold switch is. Sometimes that tends to stick. Also check under your hood along the firewall that might be hanging up as well. GL
Has been checked and is allowing flow through the heater core.
Thanks for the help so far guys keep it coming this is $25-$50 you guys could be spending on your jdm goodness.
Thanks for the help so far guys keep it coming this is $25-$50 you guys could be spending on your jdm goodness.
Well if water is flowing through heater core and you got no heat blowing...then the blower is not blowing......Unless of course there is no t-stat in the car, in that case the water just is not getting hot.
The car is blowing air through the vents which will get warm but not really. Thermostat has been pulled and boiled it opens completely without any problems. I was thinking it was the evap/heater door inside the air box that is stuck on Evap inside the box is there anyway of checking it without having to remove my dash though?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jhonny Ricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car is blowing air through the vents which will get warm but not really. Thermostat has been pulled and boiled it opens completely without any problems. I was thinking it was the evap/heater door inside the air box that is stuck on Evap inside the box is there anyway of checking it without having to remove my dash though?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Boiling a t stat will not confirm it works. It will only confirm it opens at 212.
Use a thermometer and confirm at what temp the t stat is opening.
The boiling point of water is 100 °C (212 °F) at standard pressure.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Boiling a t stat will not confirm it works. It will only confirm it opens at 212.
Use a thermometer and confirm at what temp the t stat is opening.
The boiling point of water is 100 °C (212 °F) at standard pressure.
Will do next time I change my oil, I already threw it back in and dont want to fully flush the coolant again so soon, But blower door anyone can I check it without removing the dash?







