why does my car feel soo slow?!?!
i have a '94 gsr and the compression test results come out to be 195-200psi on all four...for some reason it just feels weak and my friends gsr feels so much stronger and were both stock...the only things ive found wrong with my car is that it sometimes idles at around 500rpm...and i think theres supposed to be a ground thats connected to a bolt under the distributor?!?!?! and when my motors not on all my electronics are VERY weak(headlights, all lights on around the gauge cluster and center console, and my radio sounds like ****)...any ideas as to what it could be???
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I FELL THE SAME WITH MY GSR TOO. I BOUGHT THE CAR LIKE A MONTH AGO AND THE CAR HAVE 216000 RITE NOW. I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM A OLD MAN AND HE KEPT GOOD WITH THE MAINTENCE BUT I FELL LIKE IT SLOW FOR A GSR CAUSE I CAN EVEN HEAR THE VTECH. IT SOUND LIKE NO VTECH AT ALL CAUSE A GUY DOWN THE STREET HAS A GSR TOO AND I CAN HEARD HIS FROM MY HOUSE WENT HE STEP ON IT. HE ONLY LIVE LIKE 8 HOUSE DOWN AND IM PERTTY SURE HE IS STOCK TOO. TOO REMIND YOU AGIN IT HAS 216000 MILE.CAN THAT BE THE COST
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by im_poor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tune up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking. Check spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter. Your car should not be idling at 500 rpms; it should be more like 1000. Something may be wrong with the electrical system starting w/ the battery.
That's what I was thinking. Check spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter. Your car should not be idling at 500 rpms; it should be more like 1000. Something may be wrong with the electrical system starting w/ the battery.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iVteC_PoWeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a '94 gsr and the compression test results come out to be 195-200psi on all four...for some reason it just feels weak and my friends gsr feels so much stronger and were both stock...the only things ive found wrong with my car is that it sometimes idles at around 500rpm...and i think theres supposed to be a ground thats connected to a bolt under the distributor?!?!?! and when my motors not on all my electronics are VERY weak(headlights, all lights on around the gauge cluster and center console, and my radio sounds like ****)...any ideas as to what it could be??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn mine does that same exact thing, idles at 500 sometimes and feels slow especially at low end. i might get the valves adjusted. right now their adjusted for stage 1 cams but i have in my gsr's for the moment.
damn mine does that same exact thing, idles at 500 sometimes and feels slow especially at low end. i might get the valves adjusted. right now their adjusted for stage 1 cams but i have in my gsr's for the moment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's what I was thinking. Check spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter. Your car should not be idling at 500 rpms; it should be more like 1000. Something may be wrong with the electrical system starting w/ the battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>
1k is a high idle and isnt good. Its fine around 650-800rpms. Have your battery tested if you think that its not putting out enough power, otherwise low cca's will cause a slow start which you didnt specify.
You may have a ground issue so i would make sure all your battery cable terminals are tight/not cracked and that the battery is still good
I would take care of that first and then test for the no power issue after.
That's what I was thinking. Check spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter. Your car should not be idling at 500 rpms; it should be more like 1000. Something may be wrong with the electrical system starting w/ the battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>
1k is a high idle and isnt good. Its fine around 650-800rpms. Have your battery tested if you think that its not putting out enough power, otherwise low cca's will cause a slow start which you didnt specify.
You may have a ground issue so i would make sure all your battery cable terminals are tight/not cracked and that the battery is still good
I would take care of that first and then test for the no power issue after.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KHANGHER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I FELL THE SAME WITH MY GSR TOO. I BOUGHT THE CAR LIKE A MONTH AGO AND THE CAR HAVE 216000 RITE NOW. I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM A OLD MAN AND HE KEPT GOOD WITH THE MAINTENCE BUT I FELL LIKE IT SLOW FOR A GSR CAUSE I CAN EVEN HEAR THE VTECH. IT SOUND LIKE NO VTECH AT ALL CAUSE A GUY DOWN THE STREET HAS A GSR TOO AND I CAN HEARD HIS FROM MY HOUSE WENT HE STEP ON IT. HE ONLY LIVE LIKE 8 HOUSE DOWN AND IM PERTTY SURE HE IS STOCK TOO. TOO REMIND YOU AGIN IT HAS 216000 MILE.CAN THAT BE THE COST</TD></TR></TABLE>
the written english language OWNZ YOU!
the written english language OWNZ YOU!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1k is a high idle and isnt good. Its fine around 650-800rpms. Have your battery tested if you think that its not putting out enough power, otherwise low cca's will cause a slow start which you didnt specify.
You may have a ground issue so i would make sure all your battery cable terminals are tight/not cracked and that the battery is still good
I would take care of that first and then test for the no power issue after.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that really true for GS-Rs? When I first got my 98 GS-R w/ low miles stock, it always idled at 1000, sometimes even 1100. It ran VERY well, logging a 15.1 quarter mile at California Speedway in Fontana and having no problems at all.
Then after boost, it revved at around 700-800. Now with internals still in (low compression) and no turbo kit, it runs 500, which is kind of scary to me.
You may have a ground issue so i would make sure all your battery cable terminals are tight/not cracked and that the battery is still good
I would take care of that first and then test for the no power issue after.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that really true for GS-Rs? When I first got my 98 GS-R w/ low miles stock, it always idled at 1000, sometimes even 1100. It ran VERY well, logging a 15.1 quarter mile at California Speedway in Fontana and having no problems at all.
Then after boost, it revved at around 700-800. Now with internals still in (low compression) and no turbo kit, it runs 500, which is kind of scary to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is that really true for GS-Rs? When I first got my 98 GS-R w/ low miles stock, it always idled at 1000, sometimes even 1100. It ran VERY well, logging a 15.1 quarter mile at California Speedway in Fontana and having no problems at all.
Then after boost, it revved at around 700-800. Now with internals still in (low compression) and no turbo kit, it runs 500, which is kind of scary to me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my b18c1 idles right at 800rpm when warmed up. stock should be ~750rpm.
Is that really true for GS-Rs? When I first got my 98 GS-R w/ low miles stock, it always idled at 1000, sometimes even 1100. It ran VERY well, logging a 15.1 quarter mile at California Speedway in Fontana and having no problems at all.
Then after boost, it revved at around 700-800. Now with internals still in (low compression) and no turbo kit, it runs 500, which is kind of scary to me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>my b18c1 idles right at 800rpm when warmed up. stock should be ~750rpm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1sikhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is 20w-50 too thick for a gsr? its hot all year round (80 degrees and up)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have heard people running 20w-50 without any problems. Its a little thicker so when the oil is cold it will take a little longer to circulate around the engine clearances. You will also burn less oil.
As to the op do a basic tuneup. Spark plugs(.052inch gap) wires, cap&rotor, fuel filter, and ignition timing. If that doesn't help then go for the valve adjustment.
I have heard people running 20w-50 without any problems. Its a little thicker so when the oil is cold it will take a little longer to circulate around the engine clearances. You will also burn less oil.
As to the op do a basic tuneup. Spark plugs(.052inch gap) wires, cap&rotor, fuel filter, and ignition timing. If that doesn't help then go for the valve adjustment.
my car is stock with the exception of a short ram intake, clutch, and 8lbs flywheel...and yes before i had the flywheel it took a little longer than usual to start but with the flywheel now it starts up much faster
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adip315 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have heard people running 20w-50 without any problems. Its a little thicker so when the oil is cold it will take a little longer to circulate around the engine clearances. You will also burn less oil.
As to the op do a basic tuneup. Spark plugs(.052inch gap) wires, cap&rotor, fuel filter, and ignition timing. If that doesn't help then go for the valve adjustment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock gap for the plugs is .044''
I have heard people running 20w-50 without any problems. Its a little thicker so when the oil is cold it will take a little longer to circulate around the engine clearances. You will also burn less oil.
As to the op do a basic tuneup. Spark plugs(.052inch gap) wires, cap&rotor, fuel filter, and ignition timing. If that doesn't help then go for the valve adjustment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
stock gap for the plugs is .044''



