Car: 92 honda hatchback

Okay, i have no key or ignition lock cylinder in the car. I moved the actual ignition switch to a new place, all factory wiring in place. I turned the ignition on, and no fuel pump. The main relay is 1 yr old, and checked out. When i did the jumper wire, it worked fine. So, i wired that up to its own relay and switch, problem solved. Next issue. I have a msd, which has been in the car for two years, so please don't tell me there junk. When i do the MSD test, i have spark, i have power to the blk/yel wire to the distributor. However, when i crank the car, no spark. I have the bling clear cap, comes in handy actualy Grounds check out too.

This is a fresh rebuild, 13:1 compression, i redide the wiring harness in the engine bay, wiretuck/redesign. Still wired up like factory. I'm waiting on my ITB's to be finished welding, and have a track day April 30th. I really need to have this car running this weekend, or i'm in trouble. I have a feeling the two items are related but have no idea why. I have checked wiring diagrams like crazy, and don't see it. Oh and if you hang on to the main relay, i can feel it clicking.

So, is me not having a key in there tripping some sort of security thingy.... like if you don't have the four way flasher hooked up.

any help or suggestions are welcome, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car: 92 honda hatchback

Okay, i have no key or ignition lock cylinder in the car. I moved the actual ignition switch to a new place, all factory wiring in place. I turned the ignition on, and no fuel pump. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, what??

You have no key, but you retained the switch?? How are you turning the ignition on??

No, there is no "security thingy" on your car.

 

The switch, is not the same as the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder turns the switch. I have the switch mounted and can turn it with whatever i want too. If you have ever had your steering column apart, the white plastic "switch" with five wires coming in to it, thats what i moved. Thus retaining all factory wiring, and that is why i cannot figure out my issue.

 

Sounds to me like the ign. harnesses ign. lead, black/yellow has no power, although that would be strange because you say you have power at the black/yellow at the distributor.
And if you have power on the black/yellow at the distributor you should have spark, unless there is a problem with the coil, ICM or the ECM/ECU and as the fuel pump relay is not turning on even though the injector relay is, "if you hang on to the main relay, i can feel it clicking", [the injector relay is controlled by the ign. switch (black/yellow)] however the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM/ECU, so your feeling that they are related may be correct.
I would be looking at the ECM/ECU and it's wiring.

Sorry I do not have a wiring diagram for a 92 hatch, [I assume you mean Civic] 94

 

Yeah civic I've been tracing the wires via the diagram, and have found a couple that the dizzy and main relay share. Related to ignition, so i'm going to talk to one of the maintenance electrician guys at work tommorow, and see if i can figure out the connection. The wiring should match most hondas from that 92-00 year range. It has to be a common wire, both the fuel pump and distributor work when doing all the tests, but when i hook them up with the normal wiring they stop oh how much i love wiring.

Thanks for the responses though, keep them coming.

 

does the main relay click when you turn on the ignition

 

I decided not to do a push button because you still have to turn the key to get the power going, then push the button to start the car. Sure it feels good to have something start around you just by pushing a nifty button, but why not keep your hand on the key and turn a bit more.

Basically is it just the ignition that you wired up to a push start? If so then you need to either use the key to turn the car's power on or run the wire tripped by the key in the last position before ignition to it's own switch. So then you'll need more then one button like a race car. Ignition alone doesn't start your car and keep it running.

 

Actually you put toggle switches on the ignition, accessory, and ignition 2 wires and use the pushbutton for the starter wire. They sell banks of 3 high current switches for this purpose. I have one in my garage, still wired to a 4th gen ignition harness.

 

I would eventualy like to do that. However, at this point all i have done is moved my ignition switch, minus the key and lock cylinder. So, it is all still wired up factory, just minus the key part. So, i turn it with a screw driver. Hence why i think it should work just like normal. All i have done is eliminate the key from it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the main relay click when you turn on the ignition</TD></TR></TABLE>
again

 

It does now. I'm pretty sure it wasn't last night, could you explain why?? I have no idea, i was checking continuity between all my distributor wires, and what not, so either i plugged something in better, or my dad was blind last night. I have spark, and the fuel pump is wired up to a switch, so i now have all three things needed hopefully it's all timed right too. Thanks for everyones help.

 

so did you guys start it? It should fire up.