Supercharger...Turbo...? better for the money?
I am really interested in SC'n my hatch but for the whp and price which would be better? i know turbo puts out more Hp but is it worth the extra money for turbo over SC? and jus a ? why does my code say ED6 on my 1990 civic dx..thought it was an ef? thankss
with a turbo you can adjust the boost for when you want more or less power. cant do that with a regular roots type blower.
ef is a jdm chassis. you are not jdm.
ef is a jdm chassis. you are not jdm.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0j3ctxH@tchx90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am really interested in SC'n my hatch but for the whp and price which would be better? i know turbo puts out more Hp but is it worth the extra money for turbo over SC? and jus a ? why does my code say ED6 on my 1990 civic dx..thought it was an ef? thankss</TD></TR></TABLE>
Turbo for sure and it will be less than a JRSC in most cases.
Turbo for sure and it will be less than a JRSC in most cases.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0j3ctxH@tchx90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am really interested in SC'n my hatch but for the whp and price which would be better? i know turbo puts out more Hp but is it worth the extra money for turbo over SC? and jus a ? why does my code say ED6 on my 1990 civic dx..thought it was an ef? thankss</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can piece together a turbo kit for much cheaper than a supercharger and make more power.
and an "EF" is a jdm 88-91 civic/crx, here in the states the chassis code is "EDx"
you can piece together a turbo kit for much cheaper than a supercharger and make more power.
and an "EF" is a jdm 88-91 civic/crx, here in the states the chassis code is "EDx"
For the power most SC setups make, its FAR better to go with a smaller turbo. When people complain about turbo's downfalls vs SC's, they compair a poorly tuned journal bearing GT42 to a perfectly tuned roots-style SC setup with I/H/E. I don't consider centrifugals, as they aren't very good for motors with weak low/mid-range power like many Hondas.
The fact is when you run a turbo that flows a bit more than a SC and compair the two, you see very little lag with the turbo, broad powerband, and the option to increase power a bit more w/more boost or a bigger turbo.
If the SC is limited to 250whp on a particular inline-4 motor, then a turbo that can do 250-275whp should be used for compairison. When thats the case, you see lower IAT's, adjustable boost level, and very little lag. Boost below 3k is retarded, since NO amount of boost at 3k will be able to make much power (torque yes, HP no).
The only time a SC will be hard to avoid is if you can get a whipple/lysholm (non-roots style) that compresses air rather than is just a possitive-displacement air pump. They are very efficient, but most are made to rotate the wrong way for a honda, and cost a lot.
The fact is when you run a turbo that flows a bit more than a SC and compair the two, you see very little lag with the turbo, broad powerband, and the option to increase power a bit more w/more boost or a bigger turbo.
If the SC is limited to 250whp on a particular inline-4 motor, then a turbo that can do 250-275whp should be used for compairison. When thats the case, you see lower IAT's, adjustable boost level, and very little lag. Boost below 3k is retarded, since NO amount of boost at 3k will be able to make much power (torque yes, HP no).
The only time a SC will be hard to avoid is if you can get a whipple/lysholm (non-roots style) that compresses air rather than is just a possitive-displacement air pump. They are very efficient, but most are made to rotate the wrong way for a honda, and cost a lot.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only time a SC will be hard to avoid is if you can get a whipple/lysholm (non-roots style) that compresses air rather than is just a possitive-displacement air pump. They are very efficient, but most are made to rotate the wrong way for a honda, and cost a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what Redshift is doing. I think this is going to be good for the k20's I am sure we will start hearing about this soon.
This is what Redshift is doing. I think this is going to be good for the k20's I am sure we will start hearing about this soon.
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I think that you should just get a turbo. There are maybe six people on H-T who can have an intelligent discussion with you on SC vs. turbo, and any SC vs. turbo thread on H-T is usually full of people who don't know what they're talking about. If your criteria is WHP and price, then turbocharge it. Plus if you're new to boosting Hondas, then definitely turbocharge it as there are a lot more options and a lot more people who know what they are doing with turbos.
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I think that you should just get a turbo. There are maybe six people on H-T who can have an intelligent discussion with you on SC vs. turbo, and any SC vs. turbo thread on H-T is usually full of people who don't know what they're talking about. If your criteria is WHP and price, then turbocharge it. Plus if you're new to boosting Hondas, then definitely turbocharge it as there are a lot more options and a lot more people who know what they are doing with turbos.
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Go supercharger if you want a reliable 12-13 sec streetcar. you can find them on ebay for under $1,000.
I can say this because I've done both.
I can say this because I've done both.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0j3ctxH@tchx90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will i have to build the motor more when running around 12 psi on a turbo or a 10 psi pulley?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its a d series right?
Its a d series right?
I can see there's some good advice in this thread......
We build lots of turbo cars these days, many leave our shop and go out of state and give many trouble free miles. Turbos are very reliable, if built and tuned correctly. My Type R is 600+ and drives everyday for 1.5 years with nothing but oil changes. My wifes 300+ Turbo GSR drives 7 days a week for 2+ years in the Forida sun with the AC blazing.
A supercharger can be also reliable till you push them beyond there limit( Which comes way sooner than turbo) then they have all kinds of problems and they are fewer people that can rebuild them.
Do the research, and stay away from any turbo kit that runs in the sub 3K range.
We build lots of turbo cars these days, many leave our shop and go out of state and give many trouble free miles. Turbos are very reliable, if built and tuned correctly. My Type R is 600+ and drives everyday for 1.5 years with nothing but oil changes. My wifes 300+ Turbo GSR drives 7 days a week for 2+ years in the Forida sun with the AC blazing.
A supercharger can be also reliable till you push them beyond there limit( Which comes way sooner than turbo) then they have all kinds of problems and they are fewer people that can rebuild them.
Do the research, and stay away from any turbo kit that runs in the sub 3K range.
IMO, the $$$ vs $$$ is negligable. To do either, SC or turbo, properly I always come up with similar $$$ to buy ALL of the appropriate parts to do either. It's just a matter of what you want out of your car. Street/drag then probably best to turbo. Road race/autox then probably best to SC.
One thing to note is that it's easier to run an LHT intercooler w/heat exchanger, than to cut up your bumper to run an intercooler on a turbo. Just an observation
One thing to note is that it's easier to run an LHT intercooler w/heat exchanger, than to cut up your bumper to run an intercooler on a turbo. Just an observation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One thing to note is that it's easier to run an LHT intercooler w/heat exchanger, than to cut up your bumper to run an intercooler on a turbo. Just an observation
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Rarely do people have to cut their bumper.
One thing to note is that it's easier to run an LHT intercooler w/heat exchanger, than to cut up your bumper to run an intercooler on a turbo. Just an observation
</TD></TR></TABLE>Rarely do people have to cut their bumper.
alright..so i wanna run at least a 12.9 with slicks...probably easiest to do this with a turbo setup....could i keep it under 3500 for a 12 sec car?
and if i would SC..how is the comptech ice box? any nice gains?
and if i would SC..how is the comptech ice box? any nice gains?
a 12.9 with turbo and slicks is possible for sure. a guy over on ephatch.com has a jrsc with kpro and running a 4" pulley and he ran a 13.4 on slicks. his all go mods where about 3500 dollrs. he is going aftercooler and 3.7" pulley and shooting for 12s soon. i think its all prefrence on what you want and how much power and money you can swing. if you get a supercharger they have a million mile warrenty...
turbos will kick ***. i have my turbo. just saving for a bad *** tune now. my car will be driven 80+ miles a day 5 days a week. i bought my turbo kit for 1100 dollras with 10k miles on it. greddy t517z turbo and ingtercooler with custom piping. nothing wrong with it. had it checked out too.
turbos will kick ***. i have my turbo. just saving for a bad *** tune now. my car will be driven 80+ miles a day 5 days a week. i bought my turbo kit for 1100 dollras with 10k miles on it. greddy t517z turbo and ingtercooler with custom piping. nothing wrong with it. had it checked out too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostedb20EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rarely do people have to cut their bumper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He has an ED (EF).
Rarely do people have to cut their bumper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He has an ED (EF).
I think you'll like it, and you can always change later. I've been SC - Turbo - SC+Turbo - and now I'm back to SC again, but I'm putting together a second car (4-door EG) with a turbo B16 as a DD just because it's such a cheap/easy setup and is a lot of fun.
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