I have a 96 Accord Ex Standard (150kmi); when I'm coming to a stop or starting from a stop the car stalls. When I first start the car it idles as normal; when it gets to normal operating temp the IACV runs normal. I did take the IACV apart and cleaned the ports. What I've noticed is that when I engage the clutch the RPMs drop and the car stalls or sputters. The Load of the AC has no impact on this. The problem appears to be tied into the working of the clutch; the clutch was replaced a few months ago. I can't drive this thing around town because it's constantly stalling on me.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

eltigre

 

You DISENGAGE the clutch by pressing down the pedal. Who cares, right?? Well, does it stall when you press down the pedal or when you let up the pedal?

Tranny in neutral, now the engine should not respond at all to whatever you do with the clutch pedal. If it drops rpm or dies when you press down the pedal, that's when the throw-out bearing is pushing against the pressure plate. Does the T-O bearing make noise?

How about the crankshaft's thrust bearings going bad & the crank actually moves. That's not good, so maybe it's only the T-O bearing...

 

Jim,

Thanks for the correction; the RPMs drop when I press the clutch down. Yes it occurs in neutral, it will also do it when I'm coasting to a stop (I do put it in gear while coasting, but since the clutch is still pressed down, there's no load on the engine yet.) I haven't got a clue what the problem is, I've read many posts and I've been leaning toward the IACV, but I've already cleaned it. With it only acting up when the clutch is pressed down, it leads to me to believe that it's related to the clutch in some way.

With regards to the T-O bearing, I haven't heard any noise; actually when it stalls it's very quite and I only notice because I lose all steering capability; luckily this has only occured when I'm starting from or coming to a stop.

One addition, if I rev the RPMs up and quickly press the clutch, put it in gear and give it gas, I can keep it from stalling. If I attempt to start from a normal idle position, it stalls.

Thanks,

eltigre

 

**Update** What I noticed last night (after driving) is that when I'm coming down in preperation to stop, I press the clutch, put the car in N and release everything letting it coast, the RPMs immediately drop down to +-200 and stay there. After a couple of seconds it goes back to normal idle. When it's sitting at 200RPMs and I press the clutch, instant kill. If I rev the engine, press the clutch, put it in gear and give it gas I can keep it alive and continue driving. I've completely removed and cleaned the IACV, no luck. Any ideas?

 

There's a thread about cleaning IACV, FITV, etc. Look in there for the procedure for setting your 'base' idle. Try that.

Maybe it's crank-walk, but you can try to rule out the easier stuff.

Idling in neutral, have someone press the clutch. See whether the crankshaft pulley moves in & out when pressing the clutch. Anyone know whether the motion would be visible by watching??

 

What I noticed yesterday, is that if I give it gas, the car has a problem balancing back out to normal RPMs. Example: I'll rev engine to about 3RPM and let go of the gas, needle drops and RPMs go to about 300. If I push the clutch and give it a "little" gas (push the RPMs to about 12 or so) and let off the gas, it stalls. So the problem appears to be compensation/adjustment back to normal idle after the accelerator is released.

 

That behavior sounds like mis-adjusted base idle.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

about halfway down, a post by me about setting base idle.

 

Well I'm elbow deep into this thing now; I removed the TB and will be cleaning everything I can tomorrow. Once this is done I will reinstall and look at adjusting the base idle. is it ok to clean "everything" with carb cleaner without worry that something will get damaged?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eltigre07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... is it ok to clean "everything" with carb cleaner...?
</TD></TR></TABLE>As far as I know that's OK.

 

Ok additional info; took the car to a clutch shop and they said that the throwout bearing sounds fine. The noise I hear might be a warped flywheel; nothing serious at the moment. Back to my stalling issue, now it appears that when I take the load off the engine it dies i.e. driving down the road let say 4th gear, push the clutch in put it in neutral, RPMs drop to nothing and car stalls out. What I'm guessing is that the IACV is going bad; it isn't adjusting properly to the change in load?

Need someone to give me their best WAG on this; I'm getting ready to buy "something" IACV or EGR Valve...I'm leaning toward the IACV. Any reason anyone can think of why this wouldn't be the right one?

thanks

 

How did it go when you adjusted the base idle?

Is the idle otherwise constant? Like when you start the engine or if you use the gas pedal to nurse it down to idle?

 

when base idle was adjusted the problem wasn't as persistent; now it's starting act up like it did before I adjusted the base idle. From cold start, it idles around 1500 because of the FICV; what I have noticed, is it leaps up to about 2000 RPMs for a few seconds and then goes to normal idle (900+-). Problem is intermitten, I drove it twice this morning at every time I took the load of the engine the RPMs dropped down to zero and the car died. I drove it again this afternoon and it ran perfectly normal. After driving it around for about 15-20 min it started acting up again but not as severe as in the morning. I'm guessing it's either:

IACV
EGR Valve
O2 Sensor

The only problem I have, is that I don't know which part would be the most suspect (don't want to buy something I don't need and can't return).

thoughts?

 

additionally, I ran across this article (it says that the O2 sensor, if bad will fail at any time and the car will not start back up until the sensor cools?) if this is the case, then that would rule out the O2 sensor. Do you know what the Hale Effect Sensor is?

http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html

thanks!

 

I'm not sure about ruling out the O2 sensor. When you start a cold engine, the O2 sensor can't produce any signal at all until it's hot. That takes a minute, even with its preheater. So clearly the engine is capable of starting & running without the O2 sensor. In fact, since it's programmed to ignore the O2 sensor at the very beginning, that almost says the O2 sensor it a good suspect.

I've heard that newer cars have more sophisticated checks between sensors, and they're pretty good at throwing a CEL when the O2 sensor goes bad. I don't know whether '96 falls into that category. It's OBD-2 so there is the 2nd O2 sensor for the ECU to compare against.

That article talks about Hall-effect sensors. Honda doesn't have them, but that discussion sorta still applies. That's the set of magnetic sensors inside the distributor (CKP, CYP, TDC) that tell the ECU where the engine is in it's cycle. Honda sensors aren't technically Hall-effect, but they're similar. Trouble is, they can only be replaced by replacing the distributor. They would cause a CEL & store a trouble code.

Have you taken the FITV & cleaned it? You just said IACV before...

900rpm sounds a bit high for the idle.

 

Hey whats up! I am having the same problm with my car, only I have an H22 swap in my accord. Anyways I want to tell you I'm 100% sure that it has nothing to do with the clutch. I know this because I experienced this problem and I replaced my clutch, the proble still persisted, secondly my transmission went out on me a few weeks afterward, got it replaced and the problem is still there. I just figured I'd help you eliminate anything to do with the trans. but if you figured out what it is PLEASE let me know asap.