what kind of power should i expect stock b18b block with stock b16head ihe ive searched plenty and i cant get a straight anser. thanks

 

stock ls block with a b16 head maybe 155 WHP , low REV and a fast process to blow your motor search under Ls vtec to learn more about it...

 

being tuned.. id say 210.. but a strait swap probably about 180 whp and about 158lbs of tq .. its always diffrent

 

for him to make 210 whp he needs at least 12 to 1 compression pistons ,eagle rods, aftermarket cams,valve springs and retainers, I/H/E, Chipped ECU and a real good tuning..!!!

 

see i get mixed ansers dou you think it would pop if i used head studs and rod bolts. i only plan to rev it to like 7500 i dont plan on slapping a head on and reving it to 9k. i am weighing my options lsvtec or mild boost application. i prefer all motor thats why iam asking thanks for helpin out i appreciate it

 

i would boost rather than LSVTEC.


stock parts doin LSV will put down about 150-160 to the wheels.


but has like 140 torque this is why people do it is for the torque. now if you want the LSV to last you gotta build it.


but forreal. your LS will last longer and make more power under boost

 

boost it. stock b18b block and stock b16 head is almost a waste of your time.

 

boost it,,,,, but if want an all motor car at least run eagle rods,PR3 pistons and the b16 head you can leave it stock use a b16 ecu and you can rev it up to 8000 safely..that will be good for 160-170 whp with I/H/E and a good clutch....

 

It's a good engine, only if you rebuild. If your going to use stock internals your wasting your time. Seen to many people blow them up. Boost the LS or save for a GSR block.


If your going to build it anyways, expect 150 hp/135lb somewhere in that area.

 

Sorry to be n00b sounding but what makes them go boom? Is it because the LS has a longer stroke or.....? Overrevving kills them?

 

thinking you can take a stock block to 8000rpm+

 

hey now lets not beat up the ls/vtec please . i have ls/vtec b16a head.
and i rev to 9000 every weekend .replace bearings on crank install block gurttle. then rev hard your block is good. like i said i have b16 head stage 2 cams duel springs and tit retainers 68mm throttle body intake mani up grade cold air intake ele supercharger dont laugh f-ing works i tried for higher compression i found that the highest for my set up was 12.1:1 but thats fine

 

you dont need a girdle if the set up is properly balanced. Ls/Vtec is a great setup. I have had a b16 for 3 years and switching to a ls/vtec has been like night and day. And as long as the motor is put togeter properly and tuned properly it should last as long as any other bseries motor.

 

Absolutely nothing wrong with an lsvtec, only with idiot backyard builders with less than a clue and a honda-tech degree in motor building that kills them.

I turn mine to 9400 at the track and let it rip there probably twice a weekend. Not even a hint of a problem and the car can be parked on a white sheet after a pass and not get a drop of oil or coolant on the thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivic1999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boost it,,,,, but if want an all motor car at least run eagle rods,PR3 pistons and the b16 head you can leave it stock use a b16 ecu and you can rev it up to 8000 safely..that will be good for 160-170 whp with I/H/E and a good clutch....</TD></TR></TABLE>

why get aftermarket rods with oem pistons. waste of money just use stock rods with arp rod bolts

 

my advice is if your going to take it apart do it right the first time and dont do it again. Id rather spend a lot of money once and know my motor is in perfect condition than spend 1/3 of the money and the motor runs like ****. Just my opinion.

 

im saying this because ive wasted plenty of money and time on different setup, when if i would have done it right the first time i would have spent less money in the long run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thinking you can take a stock block to 8000rpm+</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can take a stock block to 8000, the problem is people never get them tuned and just run some BS chipped ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my advice is if your going to take it apart do it right the first time and dont do it again. Id rather spend a lot of money once and know my motor is in perfect condition than spend 1/3 of the money and the motor runs like ****. Just my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i built mine right. never had a problem with it. i saved myself about 300 bux by using the stock rods. i still amde 217hp on stock rods with arp rod bolts and pr3 pistons. only reason why i sold it cause i wanted a faster motor to get me into the 11s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you can take a stock block to 8000, the problem is people never get them tuned and just run some BS chipped ecu.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

repeatedly taking a stock block that high will lead to rod bolt stretch. which is why most people use arp bolts.

 

there are guys on who went mid 12's on ls/vtec with oem internals so what does that tell you.