I have a D16Y8 with 146k miles and i wanted to know if it could use Mobile 1 full synthetic without any problems? It does not have a oil leak besides a little oil on the oil pan. And ALSO i wanted to know if i have a little to much oil in the motor, would that affect the vtec engangement?

 

There is no use in using full synthetic oil with an engine with that much mileage. You could possibly start new leaks, and im sure you would like to avoid that. Save your money and stay with dino oil or semi syntec.

Too much oil will cause it to foam and no provide proper lubrication. Look on your dipstick and adjust accordingly.

 

Assuming the seals are all in good condition, you most likely wouldn't have any issues with switching to a full synthetic. However, at this point in the motor's life, I would just stick with a quality conventional oil (perhaps even a high-mileage formula).

 

I use Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic Oil, on my 95 civic haven't had any problems. ( yet )

 

What to you mean cause it to "foam"? I looked at the dipstick and its is just above the top oil marking by a cetimeter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What to you mean cause it to "foam"? I looked at the dipstick and its is just above the top oil marking by a cetimeter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the engine is running and you have too much oil, it will foam (form bubbles). Oil naturally foams, but anti-foaming agents are added to avoid this.

 

I have another, question i wanted to run a heavier weight oil (10w-30), but would that affect the vtec engagement? Its weird right now because it engages somewhere around 5300 rpm but i think its because i have too much oil in the motor.

 

Why would you want to run 10W-30? Honda recommends 5W-30 for year-round use. As for the VTEC engagement, it should not be altered by overfilling the oil. However, I would suggest draining some to bring it to the proper level.

 

Oil does not matter on VTEC engagement. If you have no CEL's and oil pressure, VTEC should engage. Assuming everything is working correctly of course.

 

The reason i want to run heavier weight oil is because i live in FL and its hot a hell in the summer and also the car has a lot of miles on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason i want to run heavier weight oil is because i live in FL and its hot a hell in the summer and also the car has a lot of miles on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In that case, 10W-30 should be okay, but at operating temperature, it really isn't any "heavier" than the recommended 5W-30.

 

How much to you think the Honda dealership will cost me to put some Good Ole' Honda oil in my car?

 

It's around $20-$25 for a standard oil change at my local Honda dealer.

 

so if your car has had regular oil its whole life and then you put in syentic it will starts leaks? i dont get it and i just want to swtich to syentic so i can go longer between changes

 

it really doesnt "cause" more leaks rather it eventually shows where you have bad seals since synthetic doesnt gunk up like conventional oil can. if your seals are good then you will not develop new leaks going to a synthetic. It is PROVEN however to protect a motor more efficiently than conventional oil but you need to decide for yourself if its worth the added cost. OEM motor with boltons wouldnt see any real benefit from it tho, besides a bit of extra protection and longer oil change intervals

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sladed16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if your car has had regular oil its whole life and then you put in syentic it will starts leaks? i dont get it and i just want to swtich to syentic so i can go longer between changes</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, that's not exactly it. There is the possibility that the synthetic oil, due to its superior detergent package, could expose (not actually "cause") leaks in deteriorating seals. This isn't guaranteed, and there's a good chance that you won't have any issues, but some people do. If you want to extend your change intervals, you can also try sticking with a quality conventional oil, and then sending in some samples for used oil analysis, each time pushing the interval a bit further. You'll be able to see how much more life you can get out of the oil while still properly protecting the engine.

Oops, monicle beat me to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sladed16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if your car has had regular oil its whole life and then you put in syentic it will starts leaks? i dont get it and i just want to swtich to syentic so i can go longer between changes</TD></TR></TABLE>

regular oil can gunk up on seals and keep them from going bad. Syntec has cleaning agents that removes that and then you MIGHT start a leak, it just depends on the conditions of the seals, as it was said previously.

 

i used to believe all that BS too, but honestly i'm starting to think a lot of it is all marketing ****. I mean has anyone ever seen results of all these crazy claims performed by some 3rd party in a lab? Any scientific evidence? Far as i know, it's not readily available. If you car is a piece of trash and has over 100K, run the cheapest oil you can possibly find. If you just built your car run honda oil, and then if you want to spend some money switch to a true synthetic like amsoil, not others that are synthetic based with convntional parts, or whatever that term is. When it comes down to it, it all lubricates. I'd run my car on astroglide and K-Y if it were cheaper than castrol

 

This is off a website :

" Synthetic motor oils can be used occasionally or regularly and are accepted for all vehicles that use conventional motor oil. "

From what you guys are saying they should come with a warning label

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uneek360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is off a website :

" Synthetic motor oils can be used occasionally or regularly and are accepted for all vehicles that use conventional motor oil. "

From what you guys are saying they should come with a warning label</TD></TR></TABLE>

It depends upon which web site you visit. A number of them are much more forthcoming than others regarding the possibility of synthetics exposing leaks.

What it boils down to is that everyone should do his own research and decide what is best for his usage. There isn't necessarily a one-size-fits-all solution, and there are many good options.

 

the info is out there. most oil companies have comparrisons among their own products and the synthetics have much higher temprature threshholds and lower breakdown rates.

look here. indipendant testing and recording of a long list of oils. http://www.jwmercantile.com/infooil.html

 

Im thinking that if you have kept up with your oil changes and you have no oil leaks on your car then i see no reason why i cant use sythetic oil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the info is out there. most oil companies have comparrisons among their own products and the synthetics have much higher temprature threshholds and lower breakdown rates.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed, the supporting data is certainly compelling. However, it's also quite curious to note that many people experience similar (and at times even better) UOA results when using certain conventional oils compared with full synthetics in the same engine. It therefore begs the question as to whether the synthetics actually offer significant, discernible advantages in protection (when both oils are used appropriately), or if perhaps the advantages are simply not being easily detected by the traditional UOA methods. Definitely an interesting topic.

 

yeah agreed. most oils will cover the general operating rage of tempratures so all should do the trick. Not often are people driving around in -57 degree weather or running oil temps over 400 degrees. But if youre running a non water cooled turbo like I am, it runs at higher than normal temps and really gets those oil temps cooking. I run full synthetic for that purpose alone. but again a motor with simple boltons is going to gain very little benefit from a synthetic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if youre running a non water cooled turbo like I am</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any chance it's an air-cooled VW?