I had this build completed last fall. Unfortunately my car was stolen while i was breaking the motor in 560 miles i believe. the thieves only put on about 200 miles when i was lucky and the car was recovered with the back end totaled but my engine still in the car runs good from what i can tell running it on blocks. I would just like some feedback or advice.

block:
obd1 gsr
82mm bore
stock balanced crank
crower maxi light rods
weisco pistons 11.7-11.9 c/r static i believe
arp head and main bolts and studs
acl bearings
8.5 lb fly wheel

Head
b16
pnp
flat valves
pro 1 cams
springs retainers
skunk 2 im
port matched to 70mm
70mm tb
cometic head gasket
pro series cam gears
aem cai
sms b18 4-2-1 coated header
2.5 exhaust magnaflow muffler 22 in resnator

street tuned on s200

Gsr tranny

I am getting ready to switch the motor over to another eg hatch. any comments welcome. I will spend some quality time on the dyno afterwards

Oh this is my daily and runs on 93

 

sound like a good setup, but why such a light fly wheel ? i find aftermarket fly wheels a waste of money especially for a daily driver. faster acceleration for what ? anyway i would look over everything carefully because you never know what could of been going on for those "200" miles. the motor could of taken alot of abuse. oh... AND INVEST IN SOME BETTER SECURITY. you got very lucky that you car was recovered period. and even luckier your motor came back with it.

 

I changed the oil right before it was stolen i did a compression test, changed the oil and coolant imediately, I have ran it up to 3000 rpms sounds strong.security has been upgraded with system and hidden fuel switch.

 

did you do things like clay the engine when it was first assembled? these measurements can really help the tuner and it will be easier with the engine on a stand. also you could see the condition of the cylinder walls. after seeing this i thought it was worth mentioning https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1953612

yoiu might think about some new bearings. the saying goes "drive it like you stole it"

 

you should also install a pager, backup battery, air horns, tilt sensor and motion sensor. you can never spend too much money on security.

 

I did not build this motor. I had it built by a very very reputable honda only shop in mid atlantic area. It was street tuned by a professional tuner. oil was very clean when i did the first oil change

 

your probally fine just a thought

 

new bearings is probably a good idea though. Thanx

 

sounds like a good set-up and in a EG hatch its gonna pull like hell...as far as security theres nothing you can do to stop a theif from taking your car if they want it they will get it...the best thing is to keep it in a garage

 

Only thing i am worried about is the 70mm Tb. I am afraid that throttle response is gunna sux. I did not have this on the car before. I had a stock gsr on before.


Modified by mr2turbo007 at 7:36 AM 4/16/2007

 

any1?

 

That TB is a little big, you're right for wondering about it. Even with a 1.8 it'll hinder some flow velocity, if you can get a good deal on a smaller one i would jump on it, see if you can sell the 70mm TB to some punk kid with a B16 and altezza's.

 

i would ditch the aem for a 3" shorty with a bpi, or prototype v-stack

 

i might do that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mx621 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would ditch the aem for a 3" shorty with a bpi, or prototype v-stack</TD></TR></TABLE>

i made 8whp more at peak and more under the curve with a tuned length cold air with the velocity stack over the 3" short ram. when we removed the velocity stack and put the k&n filter on we lost .2whp (so nothing).

 

Soo you are saying you made 8 whp more with coldair with a velocity stack added to the end over a short ram with velocity stack?

What is a tuned length cold air exactly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr2turbo007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Soo you are saying you made 8 whp more with coldair with a velocity stack added to the end over a short ram with velocity stack?

What is a tuned length cold air exactly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. i dont know the total length, but i added 17" to my short ram. i would guess total length is somewhere around 36-38". every car is different though. you need to get on a dyno to tune the length. if you dont get to a dyno then just use a 3" cold air.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr2turbo007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Soo you are saying you made 8 whp more with coldair with a velocity stack added to the end over a short ram with velocity stack?

What is a tuned length cold air exactly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Flow velocity FTW. By the time your car gets moving the air in your engine bay isn't that much different from underneath the car. It's not the "cold-air effect" that makes hp, it's the length.

 

i didnt say it was the colder air that made the power, i said that a cold air is way closer to the correct length

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dbiker207 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt say it was the colder air that made the power, i said that a cold air is way closer to the correct length</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was agreeing with you
mr2turbo007 wasn't sure what a tuned length cold air intake was, i just kind of "broke down" what you were already saying.

 

Sounds like alot of cutting and welding for 1-2 whp. "its 36 in oh no its 37 in weld a inch back on."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dbiker207 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i made 8whp more at peak and more under the curve with a tuned length cold air with the velocity stack over the 3" short ram. when we removed the velocity stack and put the k&n filter on we lost .2whp (so nothing).</TD></TR></TABLE>

typiclly the aem intake is only 2.5in in diameter. a 3" shorty, will most likely out perform a 2.5" aem. and yes i too made more power with my tuned intake lenght on the dyno.. here's the graph...

darker line is tuned intake lengh through the headlight for at the track.
lighter line is short ram in street trim with filter. both using the bpi v-stack.

225/151 dark line,, 210/143 lighter line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr2turbo007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds like alot of cutting and welding for 1-2 whp. "its 36 in oh no its 37 in weld a inch back on."</TD></TR></TABLE>

not 1-2 whp more like 7-20 whp

 

dam backend totaled.. atleast they left u the motor
jus wondering was it in a hatch.. crx.. 4door.. or wagon? and what times did u hit b4 it was stolen? ohh and also how much u pay for the Block (rods pistons and labor) unless u did the labor urself?

hey u posted about ur motor haha i wanna know!

 

it was a cx eg hatch. It will go into another cx eg hatch. everything i proabably have about 5-6 g's in the motor. Try not to keep close track of the money im flushing lol. I never ran the car, i was breaking the motor in.


I really need to research on here intakes. by the dyno that was posted it could really be worth it.