Hi,

I have a 92 civic 4 door.

And i recently bought some of these:



But how do I go about putting them into my civic doors?

I tried putting them into the stock brackets but they're too big. And The brackets that came with these speakers don't seem to fit on the civic doors.

So what am I to do? I don't really want to ghetto rid this as these are brand new and all.

Thanks.

 

i want that head unit... lol had to settle for the 9825 tho (same thing just doesnt tilt)

edit: try to find adapters for your car

 

Not just adapters but even spacers will probably do the trick.

That or exchange them for the right size. 5 1/4 in your case.

 

I believe your Civic has standard 6.5" speakers all the way around, not to be confused with the Alpine over-sized 6.5" speakers you have.
The standard 6.5" speaker uses a 5" mounting hole diameter, your Alpine 6 1/2" speakers use a 5 39/64" mounting hole diameter, just over 1/2" too big, and although a spacer will deal with the depth issue, [2" stock, 2 13/32" Alpine] the extra 1/2" is about the outside diameter of the stock plastic speaker housing, leaving you nothing much to screw spacer into.
Your better off getting speakers that fit, [standard 6 1/2" or replacing the stock plastic speaker housings with custom MDF housings, made to fit the Alpines. 94

 

Thanks guys. I would really rather just try to fit these in if I can. It seems that every speaker I looked at was oversize 6.5. Is there anywhere that I can purchase these speaker housings you guys speak of? I will not be able to custom make them. If I can't buy them, would an audio shop custom make them for me? If so how much am I looking ot spend?

On a side note will the rear fit these 6.5s fine or wlil I have to go through the same thing?

Thanks agian.

Edit:

While we're here can anyone give me some tips/advice on running the speaker wire? It seems exteremely difficult (almost impossible) to run the wire along with the others going through the door. And it seems that it would come out very high up, and I would need to take off the dash to get to it even if I did run it. THaks.


Modified by BlitzSix at 6:42 PM 4/15/2007

 

I know of no one that makes the adapter, [we make all our own], just about any car audio shop should be able to make them, as for cost, it will depend on the shop
we charge 4hr @ $40 per hr + shop supply, about $175 for the doors, and 2hr for the rear, and before you ask, no they are not just spacers.

Are you using the amp to run the speakers?
If so, what is the model number? 94

 

Damn 175 is a lot. Does it really take 4 hours?

It's a Fosgate T4004.

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlitzSix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn 175 is a lot. Does it really take 4 hours?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, for me anyway, the custom speaker housings are made from 2 or more pieces, [of different thicknesses] of MDF that have to be laminated together, the first piece, [1/2" MDF] has to have the same "footprint" as the stock housings, so they fit the stock mounting locations, they will have to have the mounting holes in the same locations so the stock mounting locations can be used, studs will have to be installed at those mounting hole locations, as the next layer(s) will cover some or all of the mounting hole locations as they have to have an outside diameter of at least the outside diameter of the speaker, once the "base plate" and the "spacer ring(s) are stacked and laminated, [glued] together, the mounting holes will be covered.
You mount the custom MDF housing by placing the base plate in place with studs going through stock mounting holes in doors sheet metal, [remove plastic screw clips] and reaching through the speaker hole you install washers and nuts on the studs and tighten, then install speaker.

Once base plate and spacers are glued and clamped together and allowed to dry over night, they need to be sanded down, "dry fitted" into door to make sure door panel will still fit properly, mods may [be needed] once fit is good a final sanding is needed and then fiberglass resin is used to seal the MDF, [MDF does not handle moisture very well, it is a very porous material] and sealing the MDF will improve SQ, the front of the housing gets some flat black paint.
You get what you pay for. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlitzSix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a Fosgate T4004.</TD></TR></TABLE> Do you mean the T400-4... http://www.rockfordfosgate.com...tatus= ? 94

 

Wow that's really hardcore. I'm slightly upset that it's that expensive though. I mean with my old speakers (I had oversize fosgates). I just cut the stock bracket in half, and mounted the speaker so it half assed and mounted that half bracket to the door. So yes the bracket was jsut connected to the door by 2 screws and half of the speaker was basically not attached.

BUt it worked fine for like 6 months (thats how long i had the car till i decided to upgrade).

But those were with cheaper fosgates that I got used and didnt' realy care about and ran them off the deck.

I want to do this more "right" but 145 seems like a lot when I payed 90 for a set of brand new speakers you know.

I wish someone would just make some brackets that would fit them. In my 240 I had 4x6s in the front doors I just bought brackets for 20 bucks off ebay that let me fit 6.5s.

I'm really torn now, I really don't want to spend 145. Honestly I got this car for 900 bucks and I just want to run this system to make driving it somewhat enjoyable until I can save up for something decent (next summer). I'm not dynomatting it etc the reason I bought audio is that I can transfer it to my next car so taht's why I dont' want to spend 145 getting custom **** made for this one. Can you recommend me some other alternative? Anything?

And btw my amp is older version of that amp i think, her birthdate is on 02/07/06.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com...17109


Thanks a lot btw you're really helpful.

 

There is always "another way", just not the right way. check your local shops for one that will make you MDF spacers, with inside and outside diameters that fit the speakers, then find a way to attach them to the stock speaker housings, keeping a few things in mind, for best SQ out of a speaker and life of speaker it is important that speaker is...

1 - Mounted to a flat surface, warping the speaker basket is a bad thing.

2 - Speaker needs to be mounted so it has an airtight seal all the way around.

3 - The more mass a speaker is solidly mounted to the better.

4 - A speaker will sound better mounted to wood then when mounted to any other
material. 94

 

Thanks a lot I got it bracketed.

Now I just have ot figure out how to run the wire through the door, it seems like a REAL bitch because the stock wires dont just go through a hole that I can use, they plug into a connector. SO I either have to hollow out the unused part of the connector or make another hole in the door..

 

Yeah if you are going to spend that much, you should get some Qform kick panels instead.

I work at a fast food audio shop so it would be either air saw or remove the oem basket and use a plastic spacer. We keep the adapters that come with the infinity speakers and use those a lot of times.