Spark plug heat range?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Henderson, NV, 89014
Spark plug heat range?
hey i was about to replace my spark plugs with some better ones, n i was wandering if someone can tell me what all this heat range stuff is all about? is it going to damage my car if i buy a spark plug with a low or high heat range? n what spark plugs would u guys recommand?
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,438
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From: the 609, NJ
Re: Spark plug heat range? (WanderingSamurai830)
taken from:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/R...acing
With respect to heat range, manufactured racing engines already have most of the selection done. The stock plug is usually within two heat ranges of ideal. The only change that might be needed to use the fine wire version of the same plug (usually 1 or 2 steps hotter). For heavily modified standard engines the choice is less clear. A plug 2 to 3 ranges colder than stock and of the fine wire type would be a good starting point. Complete the ignition timing and fuel system adjustments first and then select the final heat range for the spark plug.
Spark plugs are capable of running anywhere from cold to hot in a given engine, depending on plug design. Use the hottest plug that won't over heat itself under the worst conditions.
A hot plug does not make an engine run hot, nor a cold plug make an engine run cold. A hot plug merely means that the insulator nose will run hotter and keep itself clean by burning off deposits.
A plug which is too cold collects carbon and fuel deposits on its insulator, which leaks energy from the ignition, causing loss of power, if allowed to continue it will foul (not spark at all).
The length of the insulator determines the heat range of a plug. Use the hottest plug that doesn't burn the tip of the center electrode.
If your plug is too cold, you will see deposits on the nose of your plug. Figure 6 illustrates this. If your plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material which seals the center electrode to the insulator will boil out.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/R...acing
With respect to heat range, manufactured racing engines already have most of the selection done. The stock plug is usually within two heat ranges of ideal. The only change that might be needed to use the fine wire version of the same plug (usually 1 or 2 steps hotter). For heavily modified standard engines the choice is less clear. A plug 2 to 3 ranges colder than stock and of the fine wire type would be a good starting point. Complete the ignition timing and fuel system adjustments first and then select the final heat range for the spark plug.
Spark plugs are capable of running anywhere from cold to hot in a given engine, depending on plug design. Use the hottest plug that won't over heat itself under the worst conditions.
A hot plug does not make an engine run hot, nor a cold plug make an engine run cold. A hot plug merely means that the insulator nose will run hotter and keep itself clean by burning off deposits.
A plug which is too cold collects carbon and fuel deposits on its insulator, which leaks energy from the ignition, causing loss of power, if allowed to continue it will foul (not spark at all).
The length of the insulator determines the heat range of a plug. Use the hottest plug that doesn't burn the tip of the center electrode.
If your plug is too cold, you will see deposits on the nose of your plug. Figure 6 illustrates this. If your plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material which seals the center electrode to the insulator will boil out.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: USA
Re: Spark plug heat range? (Blk00EJ8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">taken from:
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/R...acing
With respect to heat range, manufactured racing engines already have most of the selection done. The stock plug is usually within two heat ranges of ideal. The only change that might be needed to use the fine wire version of the same plug (usually 1 or 2 steps hotter). For heavily modified standard engines the choice is less clear. A plug 2 to 3 ranges colder than stock and of the fine wire type would be a good starting point. Complete the ignition timing and fuel system adjustments first and then select the final heat range for the spark plug.
Spark plugs are capable of running anywhere from cold to hot in a given engine, depending on plug design. Use the hottest plug that won't over heat itself under the worst conditions.
A hot plug does not make an engine run hot, nor a cold plug make an engine run cold. A hot plug merely means that the insulator nose will run hotter and keep itself clean by burning off deposits.
A plug which is too cold collects carbon and fuel deposits on its insulator, which leaks energy from the ignition, causing loss of power, if allowed to continue it will foul (not spark at all).
The length of the insulator determines the heat range of a plug. Use the hottest plug that doesn't burn the tip of the center electrode.
If your plug is too cold, you will see deposits on the nose of your plug. Figure 6 illustrates this. If your plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material which seals the center electrode to the insulator will boil out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good information!
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/R...acing
With respect to heat range, manufactured racing engines already have most of the selection done. The stock plug is usually within two heat ranges of ideal. The only change that might be needed to use the fine wire version of the same plug (usually 1 or 2 steps hotter). For heavily modified standard engines the choice is less clear. A plug 2 to 3 ranges colder than stock and of the fine wire type would be a good starting point. Complete the ignition timing and fuel system adjustments first and then select the final heat range for the spark plug.
Spark plugs are capable of running anywhere from cold to hot in a given engine, depending on plug design. Use the hottest plug that won't over heat itself under the worst conditions.
A hot plug does not make an engine run hot, nor a cold plug make an engine run cold. A hot plug merely means that the insulator nose will run hotter and keep itself clean by burning off deposits.
A plug which is too cold collects carbon and fuel deposits on its insulator, which leaks energy from the ignition, causing loss of power, if allowed to continue it will foul (not spark at all).
The length of the insulator determines the heat range of a plug. Use the hottest plug that doesn't burn the tip of the center electrode.
If your plug is too cold, you will see deposits on the nose of your plug. Figure 6 illustrates this. If your plug is too hot, the porcelain will be porous looking, almost like sugar. The material which seals the center electrode to the insulator will boil out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good information!
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