Critique my first manifold..
Hey,
Just finished up my first manifold tonight, and want some constructive criticism. It is a custom one-off piece for an RX-7 that is getting stuffed by a GT4202. The brace is literally strong enough to stand on.
My setup:
Miller Synch 200
3/32 tungsten red
1/16 filler
set at 85amps
Anyway, here are the pics:









Just finished up my first manifold tonight, and want some constructive criticism. It is a custom one-off piece for an RX-7 that is getting stuffed by a GT4202. The brace is literally strong enough to stand on.
My setup:
Miller Synch 200
3/32 tungsten red
1/16 filler
set at 85amps
Anyway, here are the pics:









OK here it goes.. First you don't ever ever weld in a scab ( the short pieces of straight)like that.It looks like you messed up and measured it wrong.Another on a 12 a or a 13 b you want the two exhaust to come together as soon as you can then run a single bigger tube.It doesn't matter that you have a split housing.The reason is you don't want each rotor taking turns spinning the turbine.On the welds you need to work on making it look even .You can even go back over that and pulse it with your foot and make it look bad ***.The brase looks cool though .Remember you asked.LOL
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,638
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From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sol Rosenberg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason is you don't want each rotor taking turns spinning the turbine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesnt make any sense to me, because the rotors arent in sync, word you might be looking for is scavenging.
That doesnt make any sense to me, because the rotors arent in sync, word you might be looking for is scavenging.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That doesnt make any sense to me, because the rotors arent in sync, word you might be looking for is scavenging.</TD></TR></TABLE> Exactly But when the exhaust is big enough to hold the exhaust stroke.Then there is a short time of low pressure.
Its like if you had four cylinder with twin split housings.And you had each cylinder going into its own section of the turbos and the primaries were 35" long.
That doesnt make any sense to me, because the rotors arent in sync, word you might be looking for is scavenging.</TD></TR></TABLE> Exactly But when the exhaust is big enough to hold the exhaust stroke.Then there is a short time of low pressure.
Its like if you had four cylinder with twin split housings.And you had each cylinder going into its own section of the turbos and the primaries were 35" long.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,638
Likes: 0
From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sol Rosenberg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Exactly But when the exhaust is big enough to hold the exhaust stroke.Then there is a short time of low pressure.
Its like if you had four cylinder with twin split housings.And you had each cylinder going into its own section of the turbos and the primaries were 35" long.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok I understand now .
Sorry 91jdmhatchback I'm not good enough to critique yet.
Its like if you had four cylinder with twin split housings.And you had each cylinder going into its own section of the turbos and the primaries were 35" long.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok I understand now .
Sorry 91jdmhatchback I'm not good enough to critique yet.
Well, I think the problems have been covered, that's why your not seeing responses. The manifold is nice...but like the guy above said...looks like some unnecessary welds are on there.
As far as your welding goes, you look on track, you just need more practice. Your heat control is a little off in places...some slightly cold, some too hot here and there. Aside from that you just need speed consistency and movement accuracy to clean up the bead.
The bracing is nice though, and overall it's a good job.
As far as your welding goes, you look on track, you just need more practice. Your heat control is a little off in places...some slightly cold, some too hot here and there. Aside from that you just need speed consistency and movement accuracy to clean up the bead.
The bracing is nice though, and overall it's a good job.
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I think it looks damn good. I agree with the extra lengths of straight looking alittle sloppy, but overall I think your welds look pretty nice.
My sheet metal welds with my mig welder don't look that nice
, but I grind them down anyway....
My sheet metal welds with my mig welder don't look that nice
, but I grind them down anyway....
overall i think it looks ok, my only concern is the brace. it looks fantastic and yes, someone could stand on it, but you have all that bracing going to only two small points on the turbo flange... if it fails, that will be the point of failure i'd think. you should try to add more than just those two small points linking the brace to the manifold. try adding a gusset made out of some 1/8" stainless sheet cut into triangles to the runners off the bottom of the two rails of the brace. that will strengthen it immensly.
Your butt welds are hot, inconsistant and contaminated in more than a few places. Looks like your fitup was poor and you tried to get full penetration in one pass without a deep enough chamfer and no root pass.
Fillets looks cold as ***** and lack adhesion to the flange.
Other than what was said earlier looks fine to me.
No purge I see
Fillets looks cold as ***** and lack adhesion to the flange.
Other than what was said earlier looks fine to me.
No purge I see

Yes this is what i have been looking for.... Thanks for the advise i have been learning how to weld on my own and it helps when ppl tell me where i need to improve...
thanks again
thanks again
you have a syncrowave...use the pulse.
I do a root pass with no filler (this means you have to have PERFECT fitment. Backpurge this pass!!!! Keep weld as narrow as possible while maintaining penetration.
Then I do a filler pass with .035 so I keep the weld VERY narrow. Add enough filler so that the third pass ends with a convex weld.
Cap pass...I turn the pulse function on...turn my post flow up to about 5-6 seconds. I'll have to check to see what settings I actually use...but IIRC I use about 180 amps with a low low percent of time on the high amperage....and a long time with the low amperage. (you set a percentage below the max amperage for your lower amperage pulse) then you adjust the duty cycle (time on high amp vs time on low amperage) I usually do very close pulses so it ACTUALLY looks like a weld. I set it around 1.8 PPS and keep my tungsten very consistant as far as angle to the piece and distance away....rotating the piece in my hand while I weld. I usually stop and let the weld cool after the width of my cup.
Remember the argon is heavery than air and flows out of your torch like water.
I usually run 20-25 CFM of argon
I do a root pass with no filler (this means you have to have PERFECT fitment. Backpurge this pass!!!! Keep weld as narrow as possible while maintaining penetration.
Then I do a filler pass with .035 so I keep the weld VERY narrow. Add enough filler so that the third pass ends with a convex weld.
Cap pass...I turn the pulse function on...turn my post flow up to about 5-6 seconds. I'll have to check to see what settings I actually use...but IIRC I use about 180 amps with a low low percent of time on the high amperage....and a long time with the low amperage. (you set a percentage below the max amperage for your lower amperage pulse) then you adjust the duty cycle (time on high amp vs time on low amperage) I usually do very close pulses so it ACTUALLY looks like a weld. I set it around 1.8 PPS and keep my tungsten very consistant as far as angle to the piece and distance away....rotating the piece in my hand while I weld. I usually stop and let the weld cool after the width of my cup.
Remember the argon is heavery than air and flows out of your torch like water.
I usually run 20-25 CFM of argon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ManBearPig4silly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your butt welds are hot, inconsistant and contaminated in more than a few places. Looks like your fitup was poor and you tried to get full penetration in one pass without a deep enough chamfer and no root pass.
Fillets looks cold as ***** and lack adhesion to the flange.
Other than what was said earlier looks fine to me.
No purge I see
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bully.
Fillets looks cold as ***** and lack adhesion to the flange.
Other than what was said earlier looks fine to me.
No purge I see

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bully.
are you letting the piece cool inbetween passes? it's way hard to keep the heat out when the whole piece is heatsoaked.
I would say bevel the pieces so there is about 1/16 left then either butt them up tight and run a fusion root pass or gap them a 1/16 and make a filler root pass. Its TONS easier to make the fill pass consistant if you have enough of a groove left to contain the weld.
Ernie how the crap do you weld pipe with .035 filler? I can't feed it that fast
I like 3/32
I would say bevel the pieces so there is about 1/16 left then either butt them up tight and run a fusion root pass or gap them a 1/16 and make a filler root pass. Its TONS easier to make the fill pass consistant if you have enough of a groove left to contain the weld.
Ernie how the crap do you weld pipe with .035 filler? I can't feed it that fast
I like 3/32
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do a root pass with no filler (this means you have to have PERFECT fitment. Backpurge this pass!!!! Keep weld as narrow as possible while maintaining penetration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you gaining by doing a root pass w/ no filler? w/o the filler your building no depth on your penetration pass. W/ just a fusion pass your really gaining no added strength.
What are you gaining by doing a root pass w/ no filler? w/o the filler your building no depth on your penetration pass. W/ just a fusion pass your really gaining no added strength.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSI2HI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are you gaining by doing a root pass w/ no filler? w/o the filler your building no depth on your penetration pass. W/ just a fusion pass your really gaining no added strength.</TD></TR></TABLE> You're getting 100% fusion...little added strength which depends on crown/penetration height, but eh.
It looks good man. Don't worry about the "scab". It happens. You're learning. I'd like to see the welds of all these people critiquing you so hard. :D Assuming you're a new welder, I think you're coming along nicely!
What are you gaining by doing a root pass w/ no filler? w/o the filler your building no depth on your penetration pass. W/ just a fusion pass your really gaining no added strength.</TD></TR></TABLE> You're getting 100% fusion...little added strength which depends on crown/penetration height, but eh.
It looks good man. Don't worry about the "scab". It happens. You're learning. I'd like to see the welds of all these people critiquing you so hard. :D Assuming you're a new welder, I think you're coming along nicely!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChainbreakR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It looks good man. Don't worry about the "scab". It happens. You're learning. I'd like to see the welds of all these people critiquing you so hard. :D Assuming you're a new welder, I think you're coming along nicely!</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK here is a couple of my welds..
It looks good man. Don't worry about the "scab". It happens. You're learning. I'd like to see the welds of all these people critiquing you so hard. :D Assuming you're a new welder, I think you're coming along nicely!</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK here is a couple of my welds..






