Have a about 6 grand to spend and if i need more i guess the swap will have to wait a month or 2 more so i can save little more money

this is what i have planned so far :

H22a Long Block $1,150
H2B setup $750
B16 Tranny(wanna add GSR 4th and 5th gear) $ not sure trying to find one for sell at a good price
hasport b series mounts $600
hasport b series shift linkage$ ?
hasport b series axles$400
fidanza flywheel
exedy clutch
P28 chipped with h22 basemap
Speed shop near my Town to install complete swap into del sol body $850
Walbro pump
Lightened Underdrive Crank Pulley (unorthodox) $170

still trying to do some more research on some good parts ive heard something about manual belt tensioner ** whats this about? benefits ?
do i need a firewall mounted map sensor ?
92or 94 accor fuel rail to have some more slack on lines ?

** i want this motor to have some nice high revs whats normal reving on these motors ? if i want a consistent reliable block should i sleeve it? where do these motors usualy rev up to withought having problems

thinkin about doing about doing some headwork for better head flow , defintly a really good valvetrain possible skunk2 retainers, valves, springs

il update this again let me kno what you guys think ?

 

bumpp ?

 

is there a paticular reason you want to rev till 9,000 rpm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NathanielH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a paticular reason you want to rev till 9,000 rpm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It looks very cool on the Tach but of course!

Youre going to find the H22 does plently revving to 8500.

 

no particular reason just that i got some friends with gsrs chipped and they rev up to 8800 or my friends type r revs it up to 9500 but just out of curiosity really wasnt too sure of the h22 cuz i know b20 dont like high revs u know ... any advise or comments about my swap or build ?

 

SuperTech or Rocket valvetrain
Hondata
skunk2 Stage 1 or Pro 1 cams
The options are endless.....

I would look into a G23!

 

bumoooooooooooppppp thumbsup lol

 

stay with the stock crank pulley. the manual belt tensioner is better than the hydraulic one because its less likely to fail. you can use the map thats in your car, no need for a firewall mounted one. just use an h22 fuel rail. you don't need to resleeve if your not installing forged pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stay with the stock crank pulley. the manual belt tensioner is better than the hydraulic one because its less likely to fail. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What youre actually wanting to do is use an H23 MANUAL TENSIONER instead of the H22 AUTO TENSIONER! If you search around the Prelude FAQ's theres a write-up and parts list for it. Very easy and definately piece of mind.
It seems like the newer 97-01 H22A4's have alot more issues with this though. I did it on my JUN Cam'd JDM H22A because I knew I would be revving to 8500 or so.

 

no real good info here so far i see...

well i will tell you how to do this out of personal experience....

The H22 stock rev limit os 7200 for a reason, this reason is the the valve train on a H22 is its weak point. 7600 is the maxed out point for the stock h22 valve train and it is also the point at which stock cams stop making power worth revving to.

If you want to revv to 9k rpms on a regular basis (daily driving), you really need to have the bottom end professionally rebalanced to do so.

The bottom end of the H22's in stock form start coming apart around 8600rpm's.

Here's your main thing to think about. Any cam thats gonna make power to 9k rpms is gonna need around 12:1 compression to do so, as well as upgraded TB, intake/exhaust manifolds an fuel components.

With that being said, your best bet would be to pull the bottom end apart and throw in some MAHLE 12:! drop ins with stock bore. Then while the bottom end is apart have the rotating assembly professionally balanced to rev to 9k.

you are not gonna want to mill the head for compression or put in oversized valves for compression because the clearance on the h22 is already very tight and either one of these things will be asking for problems with the way you plan to revv and make power.

Now you have the balanced bottom end with ARP rod bolts, stock rods, stock crank and Mahle 12:1 drop in pistons w/stock sleeves.

Next you wanna start the head. I would go with Rocket motorsports dual valve springs and retainers. They are cheap & reliable, i have ran them on MANY motors and no problems. Plus they have 2 generations you can mix and match to meet your setups needs for lift clearance. next i would get some standard size and compression SS valves, 3 or 5 angle valve job, JUN3's or S2 pro 2's(or whatever you choose, those are best 2 out), 3" CAI, 70mm+ TB, Aftermarket intake manifold (euro R needs modification to fit, but performs great), race header (RMF, AN-R, Hytech, etc), and then you should be good to go.

You've got your air flow upgraded to support the cams as well as the compression up so that they can preform like they are meant to.

With the setup above mentioned you should be good to revv and make power to 8600rpms. To which you will find to be very pleasing. Please understand that the H series vtec is very different than the B series vtec motors. The B's are meant to revv high and make their power there. Whereas the H series has a very strong powerband from the start, not neccisarily needing the high RPM's to reach their strong point. I KNOW from experience that with the above setup, you will be very pleased with the power results. With a great tuner, i would expect to see about 250whp with the above setup. Lets see an all motor B without spray touch that.

And i also believe this will fall close to your 6k price tag if you know the right place to find these items and can do the work yourself. Forgot, but also reccomend an AEM EMS.

NOTE: Mahle brand pistons are the ONLY aftermarket pistons that will work with stock h22 sleeves. This will save you around 1k dollars with not having to sleeve.

 

if you are located anywhere near NC i will do your swap for 550. Complete turn key. You drive it in with one motor, i pull, swap and wire, and you drive it out with the H22.

i have 12 h22 into eg/dc's under my belt as of now.




Modified by ghb2oo1 at 9:10 AM 4/15/2007

 

damn that info was exactly what i was looking for and im def taing some of that info like right now lol im gettin those pistons without a doubt quick questiosn i have a 94 delsol s.i. which this h2b is going into i have the p28 vtec wiring in my car can i use any of that for my new setup or no , also when i take apart the block to change pistons and new piston rings should i get sme work donw on the crank like knife edge crank lightend crank ? does h22block have oil squirters ?Good idea ? use stock rods with those mahle pistons ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghb2oo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no real good info here so far i see...
NOTE: Mahle brand pistons are the ONLY aftermarket pistons that will work with stock h22 sleeves. This will save you around 1k dollars with not having to sleeve. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like someone is a MAHLE Distributor! Will MAHLE write you a check for damaged CYL walls if they don't work with FRM?

BTW: JUNs Cosworth made pistons work just fine with FRM. A little pricier if you can find them, but I would have alot more piece of mind with them.

Theres no reason to start ripping apart a stock H22A just to make a 9000rpm mark.

 

im not trying to make 9k rpm motor i just wana build a really good motor and if i can make it reliable to hit 8k or little high hey u know thats a plus but thats not the reason why im building the motor u kno i wanna make a really good streeet monster im looking into skunk 2 pro 2`s, Rocket motorsports dual valve springs and retainers. ss valves lookin into those vavles what would i do to have the bottom end rebalanced would u guys reccomend i get new rod bearings and all that ?

 

&gt;?how would this set up run with some Juice ? ? i mean i wouldnt mind hookin up a little sneaky Pete set up and once in a blue moon hit the motor up with some Nitrous wud do u guys think would a small shot be worth it ? or just waiste of time and money ? ?

 

Don't bother ripping the motor apart man......I have had plenty of fun with a stock block H22A. Skunk Cams matched with the valvetrain will make power to 78-7900 rpms which is plenty to have fun with.
I prefer the SuperTech valvetrain over Skunk2 but the Rocket would be ideal.
Nitrous is a blast.....I have run anywhere from a 60 shot to 100 shot without a problem.
You can always add cams/vt later....I would focus on getting the H22 up and running and take it from there.
Be sure you do a timing belt/water pump before it goes in. May as well save the hassle of doing it once its in.

 

yeah im def doin new oil pump , water pump timing belt im a C tech for honda so i get pretty good discounts on everything

 

You could save about $850 and do it yourself.

ghb2oo1's offer of $550 is a steal, I charge ricer kid's around town $500 to install clutch and/or flywheels.

 

would love to do it myself i can even get the step by step instructions from Honda i have acces to everything but the cars in my backyard sitting on the grass i do have a basketball court i could set it up there but i wouldnt know where to start you know it probably sounds a lot harder then what it really is i talked to the guy today he lowerd it down to 750 if he does my swap

 

bizumpppppppppp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I charge ricer kid's around town $500 to install clutch and/or flywheels. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats something to brag about!
I'm sure you do great work too!

 

any body know of any shops out by new york that do some great Head work ? prices too ?

 

bump

 

Don't waste your money on headwork man....
Get some SuperTech flat faced valves, and use a thinner head gasket. Like I said before though....get the swap up and running 1st. You can always do things later.
Going from a D16 to an H22 is going to be insane to start.

 

95mm crank
probe h23 ultra light weight rods
type-s pistons
endyne oil pump
pro +3 cams and valve train
itb's or custom intake manifold
balanced block

that long block is ready for what ever fuel and tuning available to 9000.
you need to work on the crank girdle in order to rev any more with relibilty.

i rev my stock rod h23 vtec to 7800rpm only beacuse it hasn't been dyno tuned.
it will rev to 8300 rpms with the stock valve train(safe side of 8500 limit)
after cams i will rev till it stops making power but 8800rpms is the limit on the short block