ok so ive been researching all week and i just want opinions on b20 vtec owners only!!

basically i just wanna know how u like ur b20/v from personal experiance, ie:problems, driving satasfastion, what power #'s with what mods

IF U HAVENT OWNED ONE I DONT CARE ABOUT WHAT "U HEARD OR READ" only people who have had experiance with them

the reason im asking is because i might be doing a trade for a built b20 block, and building a type-r head to swap on it. thx in advance for any help


and if u wanna say stupid **** like "b20's suck"or "h22's are gods gift" and useless **** just dont waste mine or ur time and go shoot urself

 

I liked mine so much I'm building another. Do it right and it'll be just fine.

 

I love mine also, it runs smooth and quiet with lots of power. Once im re-tunded ill be looking close to 220 at the wheels. Just make sure you dont cut any corners. I also take it for frequent 3.5 hr interstate drives home with no problems what so ever. I wouldnt hesitate to drive this car cross country. Id recomend it over buying a 5000 dollar b18c5 when you could build a 200+ whp one for much cheaper. Hope this helps.


Modified by motormike40 at 1:29 PM 4/12/2007


Modified by motormike40 at 6:34 PM 4/12/2007

 

had my b20vtec for a year, drives like a champ... ran best time of 13.4 ......
all bone stock.... only a chipped ECU and a 6 puck clutch..... no problem at all with this motor.... miss it now cause sold for something new....
GOOD LUCK......

 

sweet yeah cause i have a type r block thats sleeved,& bored to 2.0 i had it as my old turbo setup and i blew the rings and the pistons got all f-ed up so i was thinking about building that for NA, but i got a trade offer for a built b20 block for my turbo setup, and i really didnt want to dump more money into rebuilding the R block

also if u think i should just stick to building the R block since it is already sleeved, and has eagle rods, and if so about what would it cost for a shop to put in new pistons/rings, givin the rods, cylinder walls are ok

lmk what u guys think

 

You can put the pistons and rings in yourself and save a pile of cash. As for the R vs B20, how built is the B20 block? Sleeved? Rods? Crank? More data please

 

What bore is the R block?

 

r is 84mm, the b20 has rods, pistons, not sure if its sleeved i talked to the guy very briefly, not even sure on the comp but i think he said 12:1 im going to take a look at it right now, also he has blox stage 2 cams that i might pick up also anyone know how they are?

 

ok so i just looked at the block, and its not sleeved, has 13:1 comp pistons, eagle rods, arp head studs, its freshly built, 0 miles on it, so u think it would be a good trade for my type-r block, which needs to prob be re honed, needs new pistons and rings?

 

wanna trade up to a dart block and Custom rods for your R block + cash?

 

Keep your sleeved block, you can always bore it to 84.5 or 85 depending on the sleeve. pvc system so you will have less of a crank case pressure problem. 12-1 pistons for a street car may be a pain depending on location. get the wisecos 11.3-1 and you will be set. your loosing a grand alone just on the sleeving. the b20 block is weaker than sleeved block. you can probally get away with spending 700 bucks for pistons & labor just to swap pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep your sleeved block, you can always bore it to 84.5 or 85 depending on the sleeve. pvc system so you will have less of a crank case pressure problem. 12-1 pistons for a street car may be a pain depending on location. get the wisecos 11.3-1 and you will be set. your loosing a grand alone just on the sleeving. the b20 block is weaker than sleeved block. you can probally get away with spending 700 bucks for pistons & labor just to swap pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

 

dang yeah i want to keep it and build it, i just didnt want to spend the money, im poor, and the b20 is complete, ima have to think about it

 

13:1 comp on b20, If get it now, save money and blow the block later due to weak B20 sleeves then end up spending more than rebuild ur R block.
R block : pistons and rings 500 + crank breather $20 = $520
B20 : no money now + blow up = (-2000)

 

I have a B20vtec in my commuter car... 100% stock block and head. I used to have the b20 turbo charged for about 2 years, then ran it N/A, then put the b16 head on it and it still runs like a champ 5 years later and driving 500 miles a week...

If done right it can last for ever...

I love the b20vtec so much, im building another one for my commuter car, but this time it will not be stock block and head...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX 2.0V-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">13:1 comp on b20, If get it now, save money and blow the block later due to weak B20 sleeves then end up spending more than rebuild ur R block.
R block : pistons and rings 500 + crank breather $20 = $520
B20 : no money now + blow up = (-2000)</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah exactly what i was thinking ok ima keep the block, and just wait a little longer to get it done

 

yeah i love my b20vtec setup since the day i got it. I've been running the setup for awhile now. Build it right the first time and you won't have a problem. First setup daily driving no problem. Second setup is strictly weekend only.

first b20vtec setup was: stock bottom end with a ported gsr head and skunk2 manifold with a ctr intake cam. Oil pump blew twice. thats when i decided to build the second setup

2nd setup: fully built bottom end balanced and blue printed (11.5 pistons, etc). Brand new parts from the block up. Head is still a gsr but with full valve train (IL4 valve guides, omni flat bottom valves, rocket retainers and springs, blox b cams) and on ITBS with 440cc injectors. Drive this thing on the weekends and the only problem is gas mileage is killing me.