Guys, I am trying to finish up this project and get this car on the market. It's a PY 2000 ITR that I bought with no motor, but the rest of it was pretty complete, including the original ECU.

I put a 97 JDM ITR swap into it, and I know that it doesn't have VTEC oil pressure sensor, crank fluctuation sensor, or secondary o2 currenty, but those things shouldn't prevent the engine from sparking right?

I'm not getting any kind of green immobilizer key light flashing in the gauge cluster. no flashing, no constant, nothing. just doesn't turn on.

I have the original key, and ECU.

i've tried swapping distributor and it didn't fix anything.

what to do now?

 

mmmmmmmm, i know that you have the immobilizer re-done at the Acura dealer or something like that.

Because of the key!

I would not bother with it and just run a regular key with ignition like a DC2 obd1/EG/etc. All that immobilizer crap sucks and it wouldn't help your car stay anysafer because you can hot-wire a car with or without it.

Call Acura if you really want it to be OEM pimp.

 

^

but if you don't care about OEM, then just convert to OBD1

 

1. ecu and key may have to be reset
2. bad ecu
3. bad key
4. bulbs in cluster are bad along with (1,2,3,5)
5. main relay gone bad

 

because your gay.................

 

just use different ecu w/o the immoblizer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys, I am trying to finish up this project and get this car on the market. It's a PY 2000 ITR that I bought with no motor, but the rest of it was pretty complete, including the original ECU.

I put a 97 JDM ITR swap into it, and I know that it doesn't have VTEC oil pressure sensor, crank fluctuation sensor, or secondary o2 currenty, but those things shouldn't prevent the engine from sparking right?

I'm not getting any kind of green immobilizer key light flashing in the gauge cluster. no flashing, no constant, nothing. just doesn't turn on.

I have the original key, and ECU.

i've tried swapping distributor and it didn't fix anything.

what to do now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you hear it prime or does anything else turn on with the key? Have you checked the ign fuse in the engine bay?

 

guys, in an immobilized honda, it's not just possible to stick in a non-immobilized ECU and drive away. i have plugged a non-immobilizer ECU into an immobilized prelude, and it still doesn't start (friend lost transponder key, only had door key).

the immobilizer system works in two parts, the first is in the steering column, which detects the transponder key and checks to make sure it has the right code it is broadcasting, then once that is verified it sends a signal to the ECU to tell the immobilizer in the ECU to cool it and let the car start.

i believe that the motor is getting fuel. one of the fuel lines wasn't tightened all the way the first time i went to start and i had fuel spraying in the bay after I turned the key and the fuel pump primed.

so re-check fuses then?

i can't see why the bulb wouldn't come on though. is it supposed to come on every time you start a 00-01 ITR?

anyone have the immobilizer troubleshooting section of the 2000 ITR FSM they can link me to or email to me? I have a 1997 ITR FSM, but obviously doesn't have anything about the immobilizer.

cio you are gay. in fact you and your jdm itr are both gay. think i'm going to help you sell that thing now bitch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have the immobilizer troubleshooting section of the 2000 ITR FSM they can link me to or email to me? I have a 1997 ITR FSM, but obviously doesn't have anything about the immobilizer.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do, but unfortunately its on the east coast. I'll check and see if someone can scan it for me.

 

If you are getting fuel, which you should hear the injectors cycle everytime you turn the key on. Are you getting spark? Is it cranking but not starting? Little more info. Your green key light should come on everytime you turn the car on. You can by pass the immobilizer also, its the way you would run a 2b computer in a 2a car. like itr ecu in a civic. If you want to know pm me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettocrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are getting fuel, which you should hear the injectors cycle everytime you turn the key on. Are you getting spark? Is it cranking but not starting? Little more info. Your green key light should come on everytime you turn the car on. You can by pass the immobilizer also, its the way you would run a 2b computer in a 2a car. like itr ecu in a civic. If you want to know pm me.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Daves the man. . we've messed with this on a few of my R's. Goodluck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pvt_awol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^

but if you don't care about OEM, then just convert to OBD1</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO it wouldn't hurt to give that a try ..

or try someone else's ecu and see if it starts up

 

Try using a 2000 si ecu.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pvt_awol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^

but if you don't care about OEM, then just convert to OBD1</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, ecu will not fix.............steering column.

I just spend the last month doing an ITR project........please listen to the posts about the converting......will save you time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I do, but unfortunately its on the east coast. I'll check and see if someone can scan it for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd, that would be sweet if you wouldn't mind erik. u should stop by to check out the new whips.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">werd, that would be sweet if you wouldn't mind erik. u should stop by to check out the new whips.</TD></TR></TABLE>

definitely, just name the time

&lt;---big nissan truck fan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys, in an immobilized honda, it's not just possible to stick in a non-immobilized ECU and drive away.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

sure you can, that prelude must of had non matching pins.. ecu needs signal from ignition.. ignition needs signal from matching key.. however.. it doesn't need signal from ecu in order to work...

keep in mind, you can't just plug in any ecu unless all pins match where you need conversion harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmmmmmmm, i know that you have the immobilizer re-done at the Acura dealer or something like that.

Because of the key!


Call Acura if you really want it to be OEM pimp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this actually ended up being true. i believe that because the stock ECU sat outside the car for so long that the capacitors lost power and whatever immobilizer code number was stored inside was erased. so while i have a transponder key and ignition that match, the ECU was cramping my style in a major way.

anyone know if it's possible to get the ECU re-programmed to match without paying Acura $250?

also, the comment about being able to plug in a non-immobilized ecu and then start it right up is only true if the immobilizer in the ignition system is also disabled, or only if you have a transponder key that matches the ignition. you can't use a non-transponder key, and non-immobilized ECU to start up an immobilized honda because the ignition component of the immobilizer system is still there.

werd.

 

So did you get her running? If not check your grounds for the engine, the one on the tranny and the ones by the thermostat. I had the same issue many years ago with a b16a swap in my CRX and that was the solution.

Good luck!

 

I know that this is a long shot but there is a fuse in the engine compartment fuse area that is a 7.5 amp radio fuse. If at any time the check engine light comes on you can pull this fuse to reset the light. You will have to reset your radio stations but it also controls the ecu so maybe if this fuse were missing or blown than that could be possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this actually ended up being true. i believe that because the stock ECU sat outside the car for so long that the capacitors lost power and whatever immobilizer code number was stored inside was erased. so while i have a transponder key and ignition that match, the ECU was cramping my style in a major way.

anyone know if it's possible to get the ECU re-programmed to match without paying Acura $250?

also, the comment about being able to plug in a non-immobilized ecu and then start it right up is only true if the immobilizer in the ignition system is also disabled, or only if you have a transponder key that matches the ignition. you can't use a non-transponder key, and non-immobilized ECU to start up an immobilized honda because the ignition component of the immobilizer system is still there.

werd.</TD></TR></TABLE>

glad i could help, i didn't figure out a way to do it without paying.....You could talk to Len, but i think they send the ecu/key out and don't do this repair in house at the dealer ( i could be wrong). let me know if you need anymore help, projects can be a biatch and it is much easier with help

 

yes guys the car is running on a 98 USDM ITR ECU with a OBD2b to OBD2a conversion harness.

i have 5 codes:

- CYP, this one sucks
- ELD, this one sucks
- 2nd O2 (cat not bolted up, sensor not connected)
- CKF (JDM motor, not there)
- VTEC Pressure Sensor (JDM motor with JDM vtec solenoid)

 

I am looking at the 2000 Immobilizer section now, trying to a find a scanner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coolhandluke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking at the 2000 Immobilizer section now, trying to a find a scanner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My FSM is a 1997 ITR supplement + 1996 Integra manual.

Hook me up with a scan.

 

When I was having issues with my alternator, I researched the ELD heavily.
There is not a lot to find unfortunately.
There is a relay that controls it in the fuse box by the battery (Don't remember which one). Other than that, you could either have a short in a wire, or the alternator is bad.

I am not sure how many 97 and 98 R's have this characteristic, but I know if I am under 3500 rpm, the headlights are dim. They do not get full power until the rpm's pass 3500. I am told that this is part of the ELD.

The ELD can be disabled using Hondata, but I am not sure if there is a way to do it on a stock ECU. It will not have adverse effects if you decide to try and disable it.

I wonder if the JDM computers do not use ELD. Perhaps that is why you are getting that code?