Progress rear sway bar compatibility??
it bolts up...
BUT
there are clearance issues with the stock rear toe arm (blue arm in the pic above)
i had to make my swaybar sit higher than its designed to on the progress brackets and also had to make shorter endlinks for it to clear
BUT
there are clearance issues with the stock rear toe arm (blue arm in the pic above)
i had to make my swaybar sit higher than its designed to on the progress brackets and also had to make shorter endlinks for it to clear
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So those are the body/frame brackets that come with the progress bar?, then you take those brakes and move the mounts higher, and get endlinks, or mod the stock endlinks to hold the bar higher.
And the progress bracket uses both the bolt holes to the body? Seems like you might just want to chop that bracket shorter after you move the mounts up.
So then once you moved the endlinks up, it never hit the LCAs?
Thanks, this is helping my decision a lot!
And the progress bracket uses both the bolt holes to the body? Seems like you might just want to chop that bracket shorter after you move the mounts up.
So then once you moved the endlinks up, it never hit the LCAs?
Thanks, this is helping my decision a lot!
i think i drilled new mounting holes on the progress brackets
i dont think i have clearance issues any more
i think i still have a couple mm of clearance when the UCA hits the body
my brackets tore out of the chassis because of autocrossing
i had to get my progress brackets welded in
i dont think i have clearance issues any more
i think i still have a couple mm of clearance when the UCA hits the body
my brackets tore out of the chassis because of autocrossing
i had to get my progress brackets welded in
what spring rates are you using in your rears. I heard stronger spring rates, prevents less of the sway bar ripping out, im using my application for road racing. I suppose to start on the lowest setting and see how the car handles. What material is that progress bracket, it almost looks aluminum?
during the rip out..i cant remember if i had the tein super streets or the flex
but my spring rates for the super streets were 8k - 4k
and my flex rates are 10k - 8k
but my spring rates for the super streets were 8k - 4k
and my flex rates are 10k - 8k
Still thinking about a rear sway bar, here is my dilemma now.. ha. . Im thinking to just start with the ST rear sway bar cause I dont have a ton of practice sliding the tail out and correcting and i dont want to slide out real easy.. plus the ST bar fits in nice the first time.
What i want the car to do is just be neutral and rotate into a turn if need be with a minimal slide. But with 7.5k front and 6.8k rear springs I have a lot of body roll still...so i def need a stronger rear bar..
Is the progress rsb on the softest setting still stiffer than a ST rear bar?
I DD my lude and take it to the road course a couple times a year. Plus I live by a lot of on/off ramps that i play on.
What i want the car to do is just be neutral and rotate into a turn if need be with a minimal slide. But with 7.5k front and 6.8k rear springs I have a lot of body roll still...so i def need a stronger rear bar..
Is the progress rsb on the softest setting still stiffer than a ST rear bar?
I DD my lude and take it to the road course a couple times a year. Plus I live by a lot of on/off ramps that i play on.
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racekar
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Nov 16, 2003 08:25 PM




