V.2.0 of my welding after some advice by members here...
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here was the before welds....
now after.... ( welding pipe verticle instead of horizontal, better tung. sharpening, a tad bit more gas, keeping torch angle more in-control )



now after.... ( welding pipe verticle instead of horizontal, better tung. sharpening, a tad bit more gas, keeping torch angle more in-control )



Still looks a bit undercut in some of the picture but it appears as though you have much better control of the torch, now that you are welding vertical. Looks good though.
^^^ don't listen to this crap....
The pipe is not aligned perfect and that is why he is saying it looks undercut. I say you have the right amount of filler.
It looks 100% better than v.1
The pipe is not aligned perfect and that is why he is saying it looks undercut. I say you have the right amount of filler.
It looks 100% better than v.1
Looks much better, keep practicing. One thing, your second and fouth pics looks like in a couple spots are concave, they could use another pass to get them convex. Make your cap about 1/16" to 1/8" high but no more. Keep up the good work. Believe me, TIG welding takes alot of patience. Just stay relaxed and comfortable and before long you will be laying beads like a machine.
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As much as everyone is saying how great they are, they do look good but how about inside or cut pics ? Cut the piece in half, lets see the penetration.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ don't listen to this crap....
The pipe is not aligned perfect and that is why he is saying it looks undercut. I say you have the right amount of filler.
It looks 100% better than v.1
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Obviously you don't know what you're talking about. How would the pipes not being aligned perfect have anything to do with looking undercut. I said for the most part those welds look very good. In the second to last picture on the right side it appears to look a little undercut. It may just be the way the picture makes it look but all I was doing is stating what I observed. I wasn't bashing on him at all, just giving my opinion.
The pipe is not aligned perfect and that is why he is saying it looks undercut. I say you have the right amount of filler.
It looks 100% better than v.1
</TD></TR></TABLE>Obviously you don't know what you're talking about. How would the pipes not being aligned perfect have anything to do with looking undercut. I said for the most part those welds look very good. In the second to last picture on the right side it appears to look a little undercut. It may just be the way the picture makes it look but all I was doing is stating what I observed. I wasn't bashing on him at all, just giving my opinion.
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i do not purge, so i KNOW i dont get 100% penetration. But, so far no manifolds have cracked, so thats nice. I do a root pass then the filler pass. Jeez, i try so hard.
Looks great man! Keep it up!
Your welds show exactly what I've gone through as well. It just really shows how getting a feel for welding the material is probubly the best method for producing a nice bead on stainless.
BTW, how exactly are you welding these verticlly? Since the weld puddle likes to settle into the bevel, I've always found that positioning the joint horrizontal to the table works best for me. I think this results in more penetration, and also more of an even penetration into both peices. Your welds definetly don't look like they are sagging though.
Your welds show exactly what I've gone through as well. It just really shows how getting a feel for welding the material is probubly the best method for producing a nice bead on stainless.
BTW, how exactly are you welding these verticlly? Since the weld puddle likes to settle into the bevel, I've always found that positioning the joint horrizontal to the table works best for me. I think this results in more penetration, and also more of an even penetration into both peices. Your welds definetly don't look like they are sagging though.
much much better dude.
I mean to say that you should still do the root pass horz so it's easier to get penetration but hell it looks like you had a ton more success keeping your torch angle consistant. The tad bit of overheating is most likely from a slow travel speed heat soaking the basemetal. With time and practice you should be able to move faster and put less overall heat into the piece.
The puddle won't drip unless you are WAY overheating the basemetal. **** you can weld upsidedown if you have too
edit: if the pipes aren't aligned perfectly the camera can play tricks on your eyes by making it look undercut a titty bit. Most times its becuase the picture was taken looking from the highside(the pipes are missaligned like a stair step if you will) across the weld to the piece of pipe the is the low side. It makes the weld looks like it dips away from you when in actuality it's flush or slightly above the basemetal....just at a slight angle due to poor fitup.
well anyway I think we can all agree you're improving and with the quickness too!
I mean to say that you should still do the root pass horz so it's easier to get penetration but hell it looks like you had a ton more success keeping your torch angle consistant. The tad bit of overheating is most likely from a slow travel speed heat soaking the basemetal. With time and practice you should be able to move faster and put less overall heat into the piece.
The puddle won't drip unless you are WAY overheating the basemetal. **** you can weld upsidedown if you have too

edit: if the pipes aren't aligned perfectly the camera can play tricks on your eyes by making it look undercut a titty bit. Most times its becuase the picture was taken looking from the highside(the pipes are missaligned like a stair step if you will) across the weld to the piece of pipe the is the low side. It makes the weld looks like it dips away from you when in actuality it's flush or slightly above the basemetal....just at a slight angle due to poor fitup.
well anyway I think we can all agree you're improving and with the quickness too!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ManBearPig4silly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">much much better dude.
I mean to say that you should still do the root pass horz so it's easier to get penetration but hell it looks like you had a ton more success keeping your torch angle consistant. The tad bit of overheating is most likely from a slow travel speed heat soaking the basemetal. With time and practice you should be able to move faster and put less overall heat into the piece.
The puddle won't drip unless you are WAY overheating the basemetal. **** you can weld upsidedown if you have too
edit: if the pipes aren't aligned perfectly the camera can play tricks on your eyes by making it look undercut a titty bit. Most times its becuase the picture was taken looking from the highside(the pipes are missaligned like a stair step if you will) across the weld to the piece of pipe the is the low side. It makes the weld looks like it dips away from you when in actuality it's flush or slightly above the basemetal....just at a slight angle due to poor fitup.
well anyway I think we can all agree you're improving and with the quickness too!</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you. Yea, I do weld slower than most, I am still trying to get faster. I am using JUST enough heat to get a wide enough puddle and no more. But with me not moving as fast as I 'should' i assume even the bare essential usage of heat can cause it to be warmer lookin. I need to speeed up. Maybe i will snort come cocaine next time before I weld!
I mean to say that you should still do the root pass horz so it's easier to get penetration but hell it looks like you had a ton more success keeping your torch angle consistant. The tad bit of overheating is most likely from a slow travel speed heat soaking the basemetal. With time and practice you should be able to move faster and put less overall heat into the piece.
The puddle won't drip unless you are WAY overheating the basemetal. **** you can weld upsidedown if you have too

edit: if the pipes aren't aligned perfectly the camera can play tricks on your eyes by making it look undercut a titty bit. Most times its becuase the picture was taken looking from the highside(the pipes are missaligned like a stair step if you will) across the weld to the piece of pipe the is the low side. It makes the weld looks like it dips away from you when in actuality it's flush or slightly above the basemetal....just at a slight angle due to poor fitup.
well anyway I think we can all agree you're improving and with the quickness too!</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you. Yea, I do weld slower than most, I am still trying to get faster. I am using JUST enough heat to get a wide enough puddle and no more. But with me not moving as fast as I 'should' i assume even the bare essential usage of heat can cause it to be warmer lookin. I need to speeed up. Maybe i will snort come cocaine next time before I weld!
Drink like 3 over those caffienated alchoholic drinks called Tilt.
You will be relaxed AND speedy as a mother ******!!
kidding. I do not condone the mixxing alcohol and welding.
You will be relaxed AND speedy as a mother ******!!
kidding. I do not condone the mixxing alcohol and welding.
does anyone ever post the inside of their welds?
or just post this bling bling weld bullshit "ooo my welds all shiny and gold and purple"
pics of inside of the weld, thx.
or just post this bling bling weld bullshit "ooo my welds all shiny and gold and purple"
pics of inside of the weld, thx.
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to answer... no. I am still learning. Don't gotta be a ********. Lots of manifold makers, believe it or not, just do a low amp rootpass and a filler pass and they last forever. Just gotta prep well, focus, and take time. you wont and don't get 100% pen. that way, but you also don't need it for a manifold IF you take all the correct steps. Go hate elsewhere.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to answer... no. I am still learning. Don't gotta be a ********. Lots of manifold makers, believe it or not, just do a low amp rootpass and a filler pass and they last forever.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of people will also lie and say they never had a cracked manifold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but you also don't need it for a manifold IF you take all the correct steps. Go hate elsewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be some what true for less stress manifolds, but when it comes to a log manifold, everything you do counts.
A lot of people will also lie and say they never had a cracked manifold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but you also don't need it for a manifold IF you take all the correct steps. Go hate elsewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be some what true for less stress manifolds, but when it comes to a log manifold, everything you do counts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe ya RC.
I was just adding some insight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just adding some insight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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