got some extra speakers from my cousin in japan and i noticed that there are some resistors of some type connected to the speaker wires. just wondering is this normal?

when it comes to speakers im a noob so my appologes for the being dumb...

thanks for any clarification.




EDITED

thanks for all the help guys i learned alot. i decided to go the easy route and buy some crossovers instead... thanks




Modified by cxSHOE at 4:17 PM 4/22/2007

 

it looks like an iron core inductor. the cap wired in line with a speaker will start blocking off frequencies below a certain point when wired in series to the positive lead it will roll off or begin to attenuate at 6dB per octave, so if the crossover point is 3000Hz, the speaker will play 1500Hz at 6dB less and and 12dB less at 750Hz.

when the inductor is wired in parallel to the speaker with the cap in series to the positive lead, it will make it a second order filter rolling off at 12db per octave, making the rolloff faster and the crossover slope steeper. if the crossover point is 3000Hz with a second order (12dB per octave), at 1500Hz it will be 12dB softer and 24dB softer at 750Hz.

if it was a resistor, which it isn't, it would have been wired in to attenuate all the frequencies and output going to the tweeter to provide a better match between the tweeter and the woofer for a more linear response and transition between the two speakers. basically, if the tweeter was way to loud or overpowered the midrange or woofer, the resistor would be used.

hope this helps.

 

Two words, "passive x-overs". 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc24me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hope this helps.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


it did....and i do not need it. thanks for the help guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it did....and i do not need it. thanks for the help guys </TD></TR></TABLE>You don't, why not? 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it did....and i do not need it. thanks for the help guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm.. If you want your tweeter to run more then 30 sec yes you need it.

That is unless you have a seperate dedicated amplifier channel that is crossed over for tweeters driving them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


it did....and i do not need it. thanks for the help guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

You must like the sound of distortion...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Umm.. If you want your tweeter to run more then 30 sec yes you need it.

That is unless you have a seperate dedicated amplifier channel that is crossed over for tweeters driving them</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah sorry guys i unchecked the email notices on this thread. im not running anything special just a kenwood mp3 with (50x4), no amp and 2 door speakers, the tweeters and 2 rear speakers. using all oem wiring. i just ran the tweeter wires into the front door speakers. ive ran it like this for over 1 year no problems tweeters still work (the photo above was just an extra set i got in recently)

i figured i didnt need it if i wasnt using anymore power from an amp and that their are resistors on the tweeters already, but im probably wrong (below) and i know even though they still work doesnt mean they are still good or hooked up properly.

enlighten me guys.. thanks for all the help. and i couldnt tell of any distortion ( i dont bump it loud at all)








Modified by cxSHOE at 7:54 AM 4/19/2007

 

You are correct, you replaced stock tweeters but left, [and used] the stock x-over, and as long as it works, [sounds good] as it must if you have been running them for a year, you do not need the ones that came with the tweeters. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You are correct, you replaced stock tweeters but left, [and used] the stock x-over, and as long as it works, [sounds good] as it must if you have been running them for a year, you do not need the ones that came with the tweeters. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


no... car never came with tweeters nor is the car wired oem for tweeters. just your basic door and rear speakers no tweeters.

and i just spliced the tweeters into the door speakers. and like i said no distortion, and tweeters are working just fine.

 

so i assume the resistors on the back of the tweeters is making them work fine just by splicing into the door speakers using oem power (no amp)

 

Sorry, after a closer look it does look like resistors on the back of the "sail" and a switch, that would then be an attenuator, the pos.(+) is switched between 2 resistors, [possibly a 2 ohm and a 4 ohm, used to attenuate the tweeter, the x-over, [cap and coil in line] is needed, for proper operation of the tweeter, not sure how you could have played tweeters for a year at full-range. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sorry, after a closer look it does look like resistors on the back of the "sail" and a switch, that would then be an attenuator, the pos.(+) is switched between 2 resistors, [possibly a 2 ohm and a 4 ohm, used to attenuate the tweeter, the x-over, [cap and coil in line] is needed, for proper operation of the tweeter, not sure how you could have played tweeters for a year at full-range. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, well i already through away all the coils and cap so id like to start over. even though i didnt have problems as of yet maybe hooking it up properly will end in much better results.

i have no clue as to what type of capicitors the picture above is. nor the what type of coil that is.

1. is there a general or common value they people use generally for those two items on a non amp stereo system?

2. and i figure going to radio shack will have these? if not ill get them from a stereo place.

3. once i get them ill need to know how to hook them up aswell

thanks again for all the help...i never though speaker systems were this indepth. thanks for givening me a lesson

 

Mylar caps are recommended over electrolytic capacitors because of sound quality its able to offer(electrolytic capacitors are cheaply made) but i don't think the mylar ones are cheap tho.

ferrite, iron and air core inductors(the 'coils') give different values of inductance for a given set of coils as well as the diameter of those coils so it just kind of depends on what value of mH (millihenries) you need for your caps is to what type of inductor you need. I believe iron and ferrite cores give much higher inductance than an air core.


my suggestion would to just buy crossovers off of ebay or somewhere else on the net if ur not able to make your own; i do not believe that radio shack has inductors.

if you are up to making your own crossovers, i believe that the ones you had in your picture is called a "2nd Order High-Pass Filter", you can see what you need and how to calculate the values here: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross12db.asp

 

Ditto the above... http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross12db.asp#hp a very good read if you want to learn, as most things on the12volt.com are.

Most car audio shops sell "bass blockers", but they are very easy to make yourself, here is a 4 ohm x-over chart...
http://www.the12volt.com/carau...p#hlb you will have to check the tweeters impedance, [they may not be 4 ohms] 94

 

i was actually on 12volt all last night. thanks for the help guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Most car audio shops sell "bass blockers", but they are very easy to make yourself, here is a 4 ohm x-over chart...
http://www.the12volt.com/carau...p#hlb you will have to check the tweeters impedance, [they may not be 4 ohms] 94
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know best buy does...or used to...but the ones iv seen only have the crossover at 400 hz or below for midbass drivers.

i would try to re-create or buy a 2nd order high-pass crossover because the compared to just a non-polarized capacitor(bass blocker, or officially named a first order high pass passive filter), the power of the frequencies below the crossover point displayed to the tweeter will drop off faster. the first order is a 6dB/octive slope and the 2nd order is a 12dB per octive slope which means for each octive(a full octive is halfing or doubling a given frequency) below the crossover point, the power or sound will be cut by 6dB and 12dB, respectively.
or atleast that is my understanding of it.

 

You want a 2nd order crossover minimum. Should be crossed over at 2kHz or above.

You could probably buy a set of tweeters that come with crossovers for cheaper then you could build your own. Plus most passive crossovers come with a zobel network also built in.

If your a do-it-yourselfer go for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want a 2nd order crossover minimum. Should be crossed over at 2kHz or above.

You could probably buy a set of tweeters that come with crossovers for cheaper then you could build your own. Plus most passive crossovers come with a zobel network also built in.

If your a do-it-yourselfer go for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

definitely, as said above also. It will definitely be more expensive to do it urself but if you like it do it, its worth the experience...but if u want it setup right the first time and don't want to mess with a zobel network and making the crossover(as well as buying the parts....might have to order them on the net which means shipping...etc) then a prebuilt one is the way to go

something like this would work: http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pair-JL-...wItem