*****edit****** i got the misfiring problems etc resolved, just need help with the fan and axle now...


The cooling fan isn’t coming on, I was unable to put both fans in there for some reason, the other fan wouldn’t fit without damaging the radiator. So I took out the fan closest to the ac compressor, I was under the impression that this was the ac fan but now im not sure. The other fan is plugged in and it will not turn on once I hit normal tempatures, however the thermostat is opening. When I turn the ac button on then that 2nd fan will come on. See the picture below as well.


These are the main problems im having now any assistance would be greatly appreciated.



[Modified by slowpokesi, 8:28 PM 5/27/2002]

 

One thing you might want to check with your drivability problem is the fuel pressure regulator. Get you a vacuum pump if you can, pull about 15-20 inches of vacuum on it and see if it holds. Another check, while the car is running, pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure reg. see if any fuel comes out of the port on the reg. Also Check your TPS voltage to make sure its ok. As far as the vacuum routing goes, I would go with what the manual says and see how it runs. as far as the fan issue goes, believe it or not, I do not run ANY fans on my car. I live in Louisiana and sit in traffic quite often and the gauge never reads over half. I have confirmed that the gauge is accurate with the coolant temp. Don't ask, I have no idea why. I'll be putting the fans on soon when I do my A/C though. I do see lots of cooling fan issues with B16 swaps, someone here must know what the problem is.

Chris

 

There's a two-wire sensor on the back of the block that you can pull out and replace for about $10 (use the replacement thermostat switch for a CRX Si, it's a perfect fit). I had mine go out also. If I had a pic I'd show you... it's beside the idiot light sender for the oil pressure, if that helps... beside the oil filter . Damn I need pictures.

If you've got problems with low-rpm driveability check the valves to be in adjustment first off; the car will run like crap if they're out of whack (it's actually pretty cheap to get it done by Honda, or do it yourself for cheaper, though this takes a long time). I just fixed a Civic EX (for all you Yankees ) that had that problem. Did you replace the timing belt? If so, is it possible it skipped a notch? Have you checked the timing yet?

 

I have had this same problem for a while and I cannot figure it out. This sounds exactly like my car. You are the only person with the same problem damm. I have replaced many parts and adjusted and swapped out everything. I have checked the fpr, the timing belt and adjusted my valves twice within a short period. It could be numerous things, make sure on fuel pressure like B16ED4G said, very common. If you or B16ED4G have questions on A/C, my car has it and it works. Please keep in touch with your results, Thanks....Its driving me crazy!!

 

Old B16 injectors that have been sitting in the wreckers for a while sometimes have bad injectors that stick or just plain leak. If your car was origionally multi port, your origional injectors are the same, swap them over and see if that helps.

 

my freind is going to give me an adjustable fpr today so im going to test his out, when i pull the hose off the fpr no fuel spews out. Is it suppose to?

raene---- look at this picture do you see the thing you are talking about? can you circle it?

this thing i have to replace! do you know what it is called? what is it going to fix? i didnt replace the timing belt because there was no way for me to stop the crank pulley from moving so im waiting to get this running so i can take it up to honda and have my buddy bust the crank pulley nut loose. i really didnt want to adjust my valves but if i gotta do it to fix this i guess i will.

also the coil that came on my motor was fried so i took the one of my d16 it looked the same, do you think the voltage that it puts off could be less than the coil that came with the motor?

todays trouble shooting plans are to get new spark plug wires, get my buddies coil off his b16a..

also the axles wouldnt move the car was stuck earlier so i look at hassport website and it mentioned removing a dust cap, well we did that and it freed up the axles but the right axle sounds like its wobbling around!! anyone have this problem before? if i have to replace the right axle today what one should i replace it with?

 

okay new plug wires remedied the misfire, now i just got to fix the fan issue and the new axle problem

 

Heheh, can't circle it, but it's the only plug that's right under the kock sensor you've circled. Directly to the left of that Fram filter.

I don't know about the coil, sorry You can always grab a multimeter and check it for specs... not that I have the specs..

As for that plug I'm telling you to replace, before you rush out and buy another one use that same multimeter and check that plug for resistance both when the car's cold and when it's hot & starting to overheat. When the car's cold the resistance should be in the millions, and when the car heats up the resistance on it drops down to just a couple of ohms. When the sensor gets hot enough it flows a current and that's what triggers the fan. I hope that helps


[Modified by raene, 11:30 AM 5/27/2002]

 

Sometimes you have to cut up the fan cover to make it fit, but it should and I think at some point you will need it. If not FAL makes a slim line that will fit I am sure. Man if that fan won't fit the A/C comp should be interesting!?! It looks like my HCP kit puts it closer towards the firewall. Good luck

Axles 90-91 Integra 5-speed

 

at the advice of stinky i went and bought a 91 integra axle, but it doesnt seem to pop in hhelp

 

Well I don't know why your axel won't fit! I've heard of people using 91s befor but I always used 89 teg axels in all of the swaps I've do on 4th gen!! Works fine no mods needed at all if you have an Si!! As for you fan issue! My car did the same thing once I did my swap! I couldn't figure it out either so I just rewired it to a switch in the dash! Sure now I have to turn it on and off when the temp starts to go up! But that's only on REALLY hot days in sittin traffic!!!!! Good luck bro

 

okay, axle worked,
i took it out for a spin and the car broke down, left me stranded i had to call a tow truck

details later

 

It has to be a 5-spped ls axle without the abs ring. Other than that it pretty much has to fit. If it has the abs ring or the boot on it, knock it off. Just make sure it is the correct side obviously. I and friends have bought and swapped a lot of axles, get back to me with results.....I am tring to help!!

 

the axles did work, i went and bought some and they did work, i then took my car up and down that block a few times, man it was badass, then i decided to take my freind home, we get on the tollway and took it up through the gears till about 70 i then let off and put it in 4th, slowed down, and then went to hit it again, then right at 7k it felt like i had hit the rev limiter, then it felt like i ran out of gas, i would hit the gas but the revs were dropping., then suddenly the car died, i pulled over and couldnt get it to start again, like every 10th try it would start for about 3 seconds and then it would die, makes me think there is some sort of fuel issue, its either that or its electrical, i checked all my wires and connections i through a code long long short short short earlier today then when i reset the ecu it went away. when it died it threw a code that was 2 short beeps like short short. i almost puked.


[Modified by slowpokesi, 5:39 PM 5/28/2002]

 

You might have ate your coil, mine did that and left me the first week I had it. The first code is I think 23 which should be knock sensor. Check this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=164464 The 2 blinks should be your 02 sensor, should be your secondary. I get that code when I am on the highway for a while. I just put 2 new Bosch 02 in the car and it still does it. I was told to buy the ones from Honda.

 

what year/make/model coil do i need?

 

well its not the coil,
the screw from the rotor came out, while it was being toosed around inside my distributor cap it decided to take some chunks out of the gear on the distributor shaft inside the cap. now im throwing a code 4