Does anyone know how this head unit rates? Any other recommendations?




Modified by Try2Live4God at 4:47 PM 12/20/2007

 

I just picked up the 9881 and I'm stoked on it. The iPod controls are surprisingly awesome. I think the only difference is that one boasts 200W output and mine is 180 or something.

 

What are some of the things to look for when buying head units?

I plan on upgrading my speakers.....so what do I need to take into consideration when it comes to the head units?

 

If you've got an extra 30 bucks, get the 9885... more features plus you get the biolite display instead of the standard crapola display

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kinick313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you've got an extra 30 bucks, get the 9885... more features plus you get the biolite display instead of the standard crapola display</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I got and it's great. I love the biolite display. But now I started using the "blackout" mode to divert more power to the sound quality....

I don't know if I'm getting an iPod since my replacement cellphone (Sony Ericcson S710a) has an MP3 player.

 

Where did you guys get your 9885??

 

From Crutchfield.

On sale at that time for $270....FREE shipping, FREE harness and FREE mount

 

I just purchased the Alpine CDA-9885.

I haven't installed it yet, but what door speakers and rear speakers are recommended to go with this head unit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Try2Live4God &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just purchased the Alpine CDA-9885.

I haven't installed it yet, but what door speakers and rear speakers are recommended to go with this head unit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Old thread bump?

Anyways. It really depends on how nice of a system you're looking for. If you're trying to keep it low budget, I'd go with a set of Type S Coaxials in the front (SPS17C2 or something like that), ditch the rear speakers, run a small alpine 4 channel (MRPF250) and run the front 2 channels to the front speakers, and bridge the rears to a decent 8 or 10" woofer.

If you don't want to get in to it that much, the coaxials alone are a great entry level speaker

 

^^Thanks for your response!

I'm not looking for anything outrageous. I kinda like the OEM factory sounds in the newer cars (TL, RL, etc). They are not outrageous yet sounds decent to my ears....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Old thread bump?

Anyways. It really depends on how nice of a system you're looking for. If you're trying to keep it low budget, I'd go with a set of Type S Coaxials in the front (SPS17C2 or something like that), ditch the rear speakers, run a small alpine 4 channel (MRPF250) and run the front 2 channels to the front speakers, and bridge the rears to a decent 8 or 10" woofer.

If you don't want to get in to it that much, the coaxials alone are a great entry level speaker </TD></TR></TABLE>

just chiming in cuz i didnt want to start a complete new thread about a similar subject.

<U>99 Civic EX</U>
whats a good combination for a set of tweeters, front 6.5 speakers, rear 6.5 speakers? doesnt have to be limited to alpine; and should i be running some sort of amp to get out the full power of the speakers?

 

No, this is not an old thread bump. At the time, I didn't get the HU yet.

I'm just trying to get the best recommendation for speakers now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Try2Live4God &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, this is not an old thread bump. At the time, I didn't get the HU yet.

I'm just trying to get the best recommendation for speakers now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yo hit up the people over at crutchfield.com too

they take 24 hours or else to get you an answer and they seem to be on point

 

i just got a reply back from crutchfield...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crutchfield &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I recommend the Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2"/6-3/4" component system. These speakers are very efficient (95 dB SPL), so they will sound really nice using the power output of your receiver. At the same time, they can handle up to 90 watts RMS, so they will sound even better if you decide to go with the separate amplifier I recommend. You can check them out here:



http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi...607CS



You will need to cut out the back of the plastic factory mounting bracket to provide enough depth for your new speakers. You should be able to do this with a razor knife, and I don't think you will find this very difficult to do.



In the rear deck, the Infinity Kappa 692.7i 6"x9" 2-way speakers are a perfect voice match that you can check out here:



http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi...6927I
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr JDM South &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just got a reply back from crutchfield...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I NEVER recommend components unless you are running them with an amplifier. It is not a good idea to give ~18rms to components that are looking for 90rms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I NEVER recommend components unless you are running them with an amplifier. It is not a good idea to give ~18rms to components that are looking for 90rms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i did inquire about an amp as well and the rip recommended that

 

Please forgive me as I'm new to this.

This may seem like a simple question, but if you have a 90 watt rms speaker, is it usually recommended to get an amp that supplies the exact amount or more than 90 rms? What would happen if you had an amp that only supplied 75 rms?

 

The speakers will work just fine with 75W, however, it is better to have at least the rated power for the speakers, even better to be a little overpowered, a 2x100-125 watt amp would be best for the 90W speakers, [assuming the 90W is continuous power and not max power]. 94

 

But if it the amp overpowers the speakers.....would it risk blowing the speaker in any sort of way?

 

In a way, yes...
If you were to put 100W RMS into 90W speaker continuously the VC would eventually be damaged, however, music is dynamic and the actual wattage going to the speaker is constantly changing from a low of almost nothing to the amps rated output, [assuming amp gain is adjusted properly and source volume is turned to it's set max and if the signal, [music] has a max peak.

Even at loud listening levels the average wattage going to the speaker is not much more then about 50%, [50-60 watts].

The other thing to keep in mind is the speaker has two ratings, continuous power handling and max power handling, so if you have 90W continuous speakers they will be about 180W max.
That's why I qualified my suggestion of amp wattage with...
[assuming the 90W is continuous power and not max power]

You are more likely to damage the speakers if they are underpowered, as the likelihood of over-driving the amp into constant clipping is much increased when underpowered then if overpowered.

Another advantage of overpowering is dynamic headroom, the ability of the amp to produce clean power, when needed, over and above the speakers rated continuous power handling. 94

 

Excellent input! Thanks for the lesson!!

Well would 2 Type S coaxials and 2 Type R components be ok?
And if so, is it better to have components in the rear or the doors?
Or does it even matter?

 

Yes it matters, the components should be mounted up front, [doors] and if you are going to use rear speakers they should be mid-range/mid-bass, no tweeters or you can disable the tweeters on the coax.

You do know that the Type R speakers are 110W continuous, 220W max, and you are going to need an amp of about 2x125W RMS into 4 ohms to drive them properly.

Also, Alpine 6.5" speakers are over-sized 6.5" speakers and will require some custom work to install.

What is the MM&Y of the car this system is going into?
Does the car have component speakers in it now? 94

 

<FONT COLOR="blue">Try2Live4God</FONT> sorry to crap on your thread again but i have similar interest and need info

<FONT COLOR="red">fcm</FONT> this is what i was recommended by the people over at crutchfield customer support. whatcha think for my 99-00 Honda Civic ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crutchfield &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> recommend the <U>Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2"/6-3/4" component system</U>. These speakers are very efficient (95 dB SPL), so they will sound really nice using the power output of your receiver. At the same time, they can handle up to 90 watts RMS, so they will sound even better if you decide to go with the separate amplifier I recommend. You can check them out here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi...607CS

In the rear deck, the <U>Infinity Kappa 692.7i 6"x9" 2-way speakers </U>are a perfect voice match that you can check out here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi...6927I

Lastly, the <U>Infinity Reference 5350a 50W x 4 + 150W x 1 car amplifier </U>is a great single-amp solution that will power your system quite well. For even more information, be sure to click on the "Crutchfield Hands-on Research", "Features", "Photos + Videos", and "Reviews" tabs here:


http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi...5350A
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes it matters, the components should be mounted up front, [doors] and if you are going to use rear speakers they should be mid-range/mid-bass, no tweeters or you can disable the tweeters on the coax.

You do know that the Type R speakers are 110W continuous, 220W max, and you are going to need an amp of about 2x125W RMS into 4 ohms to drive them properly.

Also, Alpine 6.5" speakers are over-sized 6.5" speakers and will require some custom work to install.

What is the MM&Y of the car this system is going into?
Does the car have component speakers in it now? 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 2001 Integra. Everything is stock right now...
How would I disable the tweeter on the coaxial? And what about my current stock tweeters? Do I disable those as well?

 

You will not "disable" the stock tweeter as you will be replacing it with the Type R component tweeter, [some custom bracketing is needed to mount the Alpine tweeter in the stock location]

To disable the rear tweeters all you need to do is cut one of the leads on the small cap on the tweeter, [or just desolder one of the lead of the cap.]. 94