I just did my timing belt for the first time.... replaced the water pump, tension pulley and spring while I was in.

I've been chasing this clicking sound, which I think was related to the valves. Check the lash clearances and they were all in spec. Thought it was the oil (b/c it would only click loud at cold idle, mainly).

Anyhow, when the valve cover was off I notice a pattern in the belt and some fretting on the egdes of the teeth. Here some pix.


Distinct depression on the flat side of belt.



Fretting on both sides of teeth.



I looked at the old belt and didn't see this pattern.

Any ideas guys/gals?

Too much tension the belt? I tried following the three teeth method specified by the Helms Manual.

Thanks in advance.

 

its very possible to over tighten the belt. re-tighten when engine hot.
if it is in fact tight, your engine will sound like its got a supercharger

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its very possible to over tighten the belt. re-tighten when engine hot.
if it is in fact tight, your engine will sound like its got a supercharger</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive done that before, sounded kinda cool at first then got annoying real quick....so yea it is very possible

 

Thanks for the quick response guys... I can't hear a distinct sound... at idle there is too many other things making noise (my catch can is right there, and I get bubbling noise from it )... And If the sound were to happen when I'm driving, my turbo makes some noise, good noise...

So, I should re-tight when the engine is hot?... What about the fretting... Do you guys think it is related?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scartail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just did my timing belt for the first time.... replaced the water pump, tension pulley and spring while I was in.

I've been chasing this clicking sound, which I think was related to the valves. Check the lash clearances and they were all in spec. Thought it was the oil (b/c it would only click loud at cold idle, mainly).

Anyhow, when the valve cover was off I notice a pattern in the belt and some fretting on the egdes of the teeth. Here some pix.


Distinct depression on the flat side of belt.




Fretting on both sides of teeth.



I looked at the old belt and didn't see this pattern.

Any ideas guys/gals?

Too much tension the belt? I tried following the three teeth method specified by the Helms Manual.

Thanks in advance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the belt is over tighten it will hear a bearing type noise. i believe your hearing the dizzy making noise, check the bearing inside the dizzy or just swap it out with a known good one...

 

The noise is coming from the no. 1 runner, exhaust side. But I check the clearance, it's in spec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untuned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if the belt is over tighten it will hear a bearing type noise. i believe your hearing the dizzy making noise, check the bearing inside the dizzy or just swap it out with a known good one...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is not true. if the belt is to loose it will make a bearing noise comming directly from the distributor, right were it attaches to the head. also is the belt is to tight it will whine. its a very noticable noise. when setting tension on the dohc Bseries you want to set the belt on, and then rotate the crank counterclockwise to take up the slack in the cams, and front length of the belt. this will put all of the slack around the tensioner. i give the tensioner a push with a pry bar and then let it settle. DO NOT TIGHTEN TENSIONER WHEN PUTTING PRESSURE ON IT WITH A PRY BAR. it will be to tight. the spring puts enough tension on the belt. just use the pry bar to make sure you have all the slack around the tensioner.

 

did you put the crank washer on/ or backwards? also doesn't look like the belt is right , looks like square teeth not round. what year car is it?

 

I didn't have any left over parts... So I'm sure the washer is in... However, the orientation I'm not sure of. I thought I put it back in the way it came out. Is there an easy way to check?

I've got a 98 integra rs. I checked the p/n printed on the old and new belts, they do match. I will try to retension the belt. Thanks for all the responses.

 

the washer is kindove concave. you want the outer edge to come out away from the belt. if you look at the washers you can see where the old timingbelt rubed. make sure you put those in right or they can chew the belt up.

 

That kinda makes since... you can see some wear on the sides... but on both? Why would both sides have it... Well, it doesn't take too much effort to take it all apart... I'm getting quicker at it..

Lastly, do I want the concave side facing out? Meaning.... belt (( nut