How would I know if my diff is toast/not working?
I have a Quaife LSD installed in my built turbo Prelude. I never had traction (even on totally dry streets) in the winter (1st-2nd gear, maybe end of 3rd?), but I thought it was just because it was cold and I was on my 16" stockers and Dirrezzas' which all robbed me of traction. Now it's warmer, I upgraded to my 17" Mugens w/ sticky BF Goodridge KDW's but still no traction in 2nd (I never expected to get traction in 1st). I'm not familiar with the inner-workings of a transmission, so I ask, could the diff become "disengaged" somehow? I'm assuming it can't, because it looks pretty locked the fvck up in there, just curious... When they are spinning the car pulls perfectly straight and the wheel doesn't go wild or anything. Would it be obvious that my diff isn't working? Cluncking, locking etc...? Is this just the price of semi-high HP FWD?
Guest
Posts: n/a
if your car pulls to either direction under hard acceleration and during trail braking, then your diff is gone.
the main reason for lack of traction in a fwd car is because of the weight transfer, try adjusting your suspension so its got a higher preload in the back and also deflate your front tires by 5psi in relation to the rear. This basically puts a weight bias to the front of the car. And makes it harder to compress the rear springs during the weight transfer. Just becareful with that because it will increase your oversteer by a bunch. My S14.5 had a welded diff and ~450 whp one day my ring gear broke and the car pulled HARD to the left, it jammed one of the planitary gears in the closed position and the power went to the left wheel only. So yea, just adjust ur suspension and take it to a track and do some dry launches and see if it helps any..gl
the main reason for lack of traction in a fwd car is because of the weight transfer, try adjusting your suspension so its got a higher preload in the back and also deflate your front tires by 5psi in relation to the rear. This basically puts a weight bias to the front of the car. And makes it harder to compress the rear springs during the weight transfer. Just becareful with that because it will increase your oversteer by a bunch. My S14.5 had a welded diff and ~450 whp one day my ring gear broke and the car pulled HARD to the left, it jammed one of the planitary gears in the closed position and the power went to the left wheel only. So yea, just adjust ur suspension and take it to a track and do some dry launches and see if it helps any..gl
weight transfer really only matters off the line dude
OP, yes 390whp in a fwd car on street tires is good reason to spin. Hit the gas 3/4 of the way through a turn, hard, and point the wheel where you want to go, if you go there, the lsd is working, if you go off the road, its not working.
Disclaimer: If you wreck your car doing that, its not my fault, and I'll buy some parts from the part out
OP, yes 390whp in a fwd car on street tires is good reason to spin. Hit the gas 3/4 of the way through a turn, hard, and point the wheel where you want to go, if you go there, the lsd is working, if you go off the road, its not working.
Disclaimer: If you wreck your car doing that, its not my fault, and I'll buy some parts from the part out
Guest
Posts: n/a
with 390 hp on a fwd car how are you gonna say weight transfer only matters on launch? My 240 would spin the **** out of the tires at 60 mph on the freeway...in fwd its even worse since nearly all the weight goes to the *** of the car..but whatever.
i think your problem Mclude is your jumpin off dynos is pissin off car and it wants some revenge.
i think your problem Mclude is your jumpin off dynos is pissin off car and it wants some revenge.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




