How come when u use OEM honda rods/crank u have to get all **** with bearing clearance....but if u buy a stroker kit (i.e. ESP,scat crower) they give you packaged ALC or some other bearings....so u just throw them ***** in the motor?? or get out the plasti-guage and go buy honda ones anyhow? or if i was to go with an OEM re-build can i just order "brand X" main/rod bearings and toss them in? BTW Im looking for a Good GSR block with main caps/girdle ....preferable if crank was still there. but not totaly nessicary.

 

Bearing clearances need to be correct no matter what parts you use.

 

definetly plastigauge everytime. I have head that acl bearings dont last as long as oem, but i dont have any personal experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definetly plastigauge everytime. I have head that acl bearings dont last as long as oem, but i dont have any personal experience. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My guess would be that they dont last because they are improperly clearanced/ just tossed in.

 

Both bearings are good. Like already mentioned, the clearances and assembly are whats critical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both bearings are good. Like already mentioned, the clearances and assembly are whats critical. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, if you are running LS or B20 rods, they come with bi-metal bearings from the factory. But the VTEC engines run a tri-metal bearing from the factory, which is more suited for the higher revs. If you are building an engine with the LS rods, and plan to raise the rev limit, the ACL's provide a tri-metal bearing. Alternatively, you can notch the LS rods to run the OEM tri-metal bearings also.