v-tec problem
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v-tec problem
hey guys i have a 2000 civic si with a 1.6 sohc vtec..the problem i have is that the v-tec kicks in at 5500 rpm but i want it to kick in at 3500rpm..does anyone know how i would go abouts doing that? the cheapest method would be appreciatted.thanks
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From: Beating people with a stick, GA
Re: v-tec problem (sweetbai00000)
What would that accomplish?
Are you trying to burn seals and float valves?
Honda got it right the first time. It's set there for a reason.
In case you didn't know, Vtec is designed to make the engine more efficient at higer rpms due to longer valve travel. When Vtec engages oil fills the cams and extends a lobe to make the cam size larger while engaged. This is to make more frequent cam lob to valve contact while At high rpms.
That's the magic of "Vtec" in a nutshell. No, nasa didn't help design it. It's not Magic. It doesn't get all the girls or make civic's faster than mustangs. Sorry to bust you're bubble.
Are you trying to burn seals and float valves?
Honda got it right the first time. It's set there for a reason.
In case you didn't know, Vtec is designed to make the engine more efficient at higer rpms due to longer valve travel. When Vtec engages oil fills the cams and extends a lobe to make the cam size larger while engaged. This is to make more frequent cam lob to valve contact while At high rpms.
That's the magic of "Vtec" in a nutshell. No, nasa didn't help design it. It's not Magic. It doesn't get all the girls or make civic's faster than mustangs. Sorry to bust you're bubble.
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From: chillin in that city called queen creek, but homes the atl
Re: v-tec problem (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would that accomplish?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah and the cheapest way to do this stupid mod is to put your vtec on a switch so u can turn it on manually your self
yeah and the cheapest way to do this stupid mod is to put your vtec on a switch so u can turn it on manually your self
Ek Forever y0!
Joined: May 2005
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From: Beating people with a stick, GA
Re: v-tec problem (BlueIntegraBoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What happened to your B16?
Anyways, you need a VTEC controller like an Apex-i VAFC, VAFCII, or Neo AFC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Though it's pointless to do this on a stock motor.
The appropriate time to do this mod is when you have a highly modded car and a proffessional tuner to set vtec at precise engagements in each gear. And it won't ever be as low as 3500.
Anyways, you need a VTEC controller like an Apex-i VAFC, VAFCII, or Neo AFC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Though it's pointless to do this on a stock motor.
The appropriate time to do this mod is when you have a highly modded car and a proffessional tuner to set vtec at precise engagements in each gear. And it won't ever be as low as 3500.
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From: chillin in that city called queen creek, but homes the atl
Re: v-tec problem (BlueIntegraBoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What happened to your B16?
Anyways, you need a VTEC controller like an Apex-i VAFC, VAFCII, or Neo AFC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah thats what he should get but its not the cheapest way like he asked
Anyways, you need a VTEC controller like an Apex-i VAFC, VAFCII, or Neo AFC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah thats what he should get but its not the cheapest way like he asked
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From: Tampa, FL, USA
Re: v-tec problem (ek99)
Agreed. VTEC crossover is meant to be at the perfect place where your low cam starts to lose power and the high cam is needed for longer duration. You're going to seriously hinder performance on a stock engine.
Ek Forever y0!
Joined: May 2005
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From: Beating people with a stick, GA
Re: v-tec problem (sxecrow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sxecrow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You're going to seriously hinder performance on a stock engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
See, I'm not lying.
See, I'm not lying.
Re: v-tec problem (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweetbai00000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys i have a 2000 civic si with a 1.6 sohc vtec..the problem i have is that the v-tec kicks in at 5500 rpm but i want it to kick in at 3500rpm..does anyone know how i would go abouts doing that? the cheapest method would be appreciatted.thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
stop being a ricer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When Vtec engages oil fills the cams and extends a lobe to make the cam size larger while engaged. This is to make more frequent cam lob to valve contact while At high rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not exactly how it works. but you're getting close.
stop being a ricer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When Vtec engages oil fills the cams and extends a lobe to make the cam size larger while engaged. This is to make more frequent cam lob to valve contact while At high rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not exactly how it works. but you're getting close.
Re: v-tec problem (ek forever guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In case you didn't know, Vtec is designed to make the engine more efficient at higer rpms due to longer valve travel. When Vtec engages oil fills the cams and extends a lobe to make the cam size larger while engaged. This is to make more frequent cam lob to valve contact while At high rpms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually thats not a very correct description on how the VTEC system works. Oil pressure is applied to locking pistons that are inside the rocker arms, your rockers then operate on the VTEC camshaft lobe which increases how long the valves are open and how far they open, aka VTEC. Depending on which vehicle you drive your camshafts will either have 2 or 3 lobes, one designated for the VTEC x-over
Actually thats not a very correct description on how the VTEC system works. Oil pressure is applied to locking pistons that are inside the rocker arms, your rockers then operate on the VTEC camshaft lobe which increases how long the valves are open and how far they open, aka VTEC. Depending on which vehicle you drive your camshafts will either have 2 or 3 lobes, one designated for the VTEC x-over
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Re: v-tec problem (ek forever guy)
Hey buddy thanks for the info, well the b16 was too much extra work to put in because I don’t plan on keeping the car for much longer.plus i sold the b16 and made some money on it.. I got a jdm d15b motor really cheap so I decided to just drop that in so I can sell the car..well why I had wanted to change the v-tec timing was because the car takes a long time to get up to 5500 rpm lol but I used the old tranny from the first engine which I guess is a piece of ****.so that might be the problem..the car kicks off and pulls nice when the vtec kicks in I just thought I could get it to do the same at a lower rpm but I guess it wasn’t made to do so..thanks
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Beating people with a stick, GA
Re: v-tec problem (sweetbai00000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweetbai00000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey buddy thanks for the info, well the b16 was too much extra work to put in because I don’t plan on keeping the car for much longer.plus i sold the b16 and made some money on it I got a jdm d15b motor really cheap so I decided to just drop that in so I can sell the car..well why I had wanted to change the v-tec timing was because the car takes a long time to get up to 5500 rpm lol but I used the old tranny from the first engine which I guess is a piece of ****.so that might be the problem..the car kicks off and pulls nice when the vtec kicks in I just thought I could get it to do the same at a lower rpm but I guess it wasn’t made to do so..thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was that really like 2-3 sentences??
That wasn't very clear either. The d you swapped in won't rev fast 6500-7000
I know you didn't use the b16 tranny and the D series block.
I still can't figure out what car you have what engine is in it and wtf you goals are.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was that really like 2-3 sentences??
That wasn't very clear either. The d you swapped in won't rev fast 6500-7000
I know you didn't use the b16 tranny and the D series block.
I still can't figure out what car you have what engine is in it and wtf you goals are.
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From: nc, usa
Re: v-tec problem (ek forever guy)
Its simple. He has no goals for the car. He just threw in the single cam engine and tranny so he can sell the 00 civic si. So basically he has a 00 si with a d15b connected to a old tranny he had. A heavy SI with a 1.5 single cam is not gonna go anywhere, so don't bother messing with the vtec engagement point.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Re: v-tec problem (ek99)
Wow.
B16 out for a SOHC stock in.
Even me, hating the B16 thinks that's a **** swap...
@ OP:
VTEC engages at optimal RPM after a few conditions are met:
- Temperature of engine is above ~170ºF (I think it's 170, I don't have time to check the manual now)
- You're moving at 20+mph (or about there)
- Your RPM is <u>above</u> 4800 (or above that)
After those conditions (plus sufficient oil pressure) are met, it engages when it thinks it should based on the IAT, TPS, and MAP sensor readings. It's not ALWAYS 4800 RPM, if it's all warmed up and ur full throttling it to redline, then yeah, it'll engage then, but if not it might take longer, depending on a few sensors' reading.
VTEC is NOT nitrous, it is not meant for your car to go faster (yes, believe it). It is actually simply meant for your car to run more efficiently. The reason the ECU picks the engagement point is because there's no perfect engagement point, no human can decide "when it's good" to engage it. The VTEC lobes are meant for high RPM usage, turn them on too low, and your engine will bog to ****, continue to do that and you'll blow something.
They're meant for 4800+ (generally speaking) and the computer will decide for you. You can be a ricer and get a VAFC to change it, and you can claim in all your belief that it's faster, but it won't be. It'll be slower, dyno it. You can't change the VTEC engagement point on a stock motor and get more power, when ur a far cry from stock, then it's normal to move the VTEC engagement point, but on a dynometer, not in ur driveway if you get what I'm sayin.
Though even then, VAFC hacks are made useless by the fact that any ECU management you would have with a built setup (such as Crome or Hondata) is able to edit your VTEC engagement point anyways. Therefore making VAFC hacks nothing more than a pile of ****. If you get a good build, then w/ a good tune you'll be good, let a pro change the VTEC engagement point when ur engine's not stock anymore, as of now, it's just ricer suicide.
Think of it as starting your car in 2nd every time and shifting at like 1.5k RPM, your engine'll die.
Civics w/ VTEC have been around for 1.5 decades. If you could just change the VTEC engagement and gain more power, don't you think everybody and their brother would be doing it? VTEC is not nitrous despite some ricer confusion, it is simply a higher efficiency cam lobe for higher RPM.
Summarized:
Don't mess with VTEC, let the computer decide when to engage. Anybody that's got a stock motor and has an edited VTEC engagement point (not on a dyno) is a ricer. Anybody that has a switch for VTEC engagement is a ricer.
B16 out for a SOHC stock in.
Even me, hating the B16 thinks that's a **** swap...
@ OP:
VTEC engages at optimal RPM after a few conditions are met:
- Temperature of engine is above ~170ºF (I think it's 170, I don't have time to check the manual now)
- You're moving at 20+mph (or about there)
- Your RPM is <u>above</u> 4800 (or above that)
After those conditions (plus sufficient oil pressure) are met, it engages when it thinks it should based on the IAT, TPS, and MAP sensor readings. It's not ALWAYS 4800 RPM, if it's all warmed up and ur full throttling it to redline, then yeah, it'll engage then, but if not it might take longer, depending on a few sensors' reading.
VTEC is NOT nitrous, it is not meant for your car to go faster (yes, believe it). It is actually simply meant for your car to run more efficiently. The reason the ECU picks the engagement point is because there's no perfect engagement point, no human can decide "when it's good" to engage it. The VTEC lobes are meant for high RPM usage, turn them on too low, and your engine will bog to ****, continue to do that and you'll blow something.
They're meant for 4800+ (generally speaking) and the computer will decide for you. You can be a ricer and get a VAFC to change it, and you can claim in all your belief that it's faster, but it won't be. It'll be slower, dyno it. You can't change the VTEC engagement point on a stock motor and get more power, when ur a far cry from stock, then it's normal to move the VTEC engagement point, but on a dynometer, not in ur driveway if you get what I'm sayin.
Though even then, VAFC hacks are made useless by the fact that any ECU management you would have with a built setup (such as Crome or Hondata) is able to edit your VTEC engagement point anyways. Therefore making VAFC hacks nothing more than a pile of ****. If you get a good build, then w/ a good tune you'll be good, let a pro change the VTEC engagement point when ur engine's not stock anymore, as of now, it's just ricer suicide.
Think of it as starting your car in 2nd every time and shifting at like 1.5k RPM, your engine'll die.
Civics w/ VTEC have been around for 1.5 decades. If you could just change the VTEC engagement and gain more power, don't you think everybody and their brother would be doing it? VTEC is not nitrous despite some ricer confusion, it is simply a higher efficiency cam lobe for higher RPM.
Summarized:
Don't mess with VTEC, let the computer decide when to engage. Anybody that's got a stock motor and has an edited VTEC engagement point (not on a dyno) is a ricer. Anybody that has a switch for VTEC engagement is a ricer.
* B A N N E D *
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From: Los Angeles map quest 90022, CA, USA
Re: v-tec problem (sweetbai00000)
don't listen to these people they're not really positive of what they say, they told me the same thing my vtec, do what you feel. 
* B A N N E D *
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From: Los Angeles map quest 90022, CA, USA
Re: v-tec problem (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow.
B16 out for a SOHC stock in.
Even me, hating the B16 thinks that's a **** swap...
@ OP:
VTEC engages at optimal RPM after a few conditions are met:
- Temperature of engine is above ~170ºF (I think it's 170, I don't have time to check the manual now)
- You're moving at 20+mph (or about there)
- Your RPM is <u>above</u> 4800 (or above that)
After those conditions (plus sufficient oil pressure) are met, it engages when it thinks it should based on the IAT, TPS, and MAP sensor readings. It's not ALWAYS 4800 RPM, if it's all warmed up and ur full throttling it to redline, then yeah, it'll engage then, but if not it might take longer, depending on a few sensors' reading.
VTEC is NOT nitrous, it is not meant for your car to go faster (yes, believe it). It is actually simply meant for your car to run more efficiently. The reason the ECU picks the engagement point is because there's no perfect engagement point, no human can decide "when it's good" to engage it. The VTEC lobes are meant for high RPM usage, turn them on too low, and your engine will bog to ****, continue to do that and you'll blow something.
They're meant for 4800+ (generally speaking) and the computer will decide for you. You can be a ricer and get a VAFC to change it, and you can claim in all your belief that it's faster, but it won't be. It'll be slower, dyno it. You can't change the VTEC engagement point on a stock motor and get more power, when ur a far cry from stock, then it's normal to move the VTEC engagement point, but on a dynometer, not in ur driveway if you get what I'm sayin.
Though even then, VAFC hacks are made useless by the fact that any ECU management you would have with a built setup (such as Crome or Hondata) is able to edit your VTEC engagement point anyways. Therefore making VAFC hacks nothing more than a pile of ****. If you get a good build, then w/ a good tune you'll be good, let a pro change the VTEC engagement point when ur engine's not stock anymore, as of now, it's just ricer suicide.
Think of it as starting your car in 2nd every time and shifting at like 1.5k RPM, your engine'll die.
Civics w/ VTEC have been around for 1.5 decades. If you could just change the VTEC engagement and gain more power, don't you think everybody and their brother would be doing it? VTEC is not nitrous despite some ricer confusion, it is simply a higher efficiency cam lobe for higher RPM.
Summarized:
Don't mess with VTEC, let the computer decide when to engage. Anybody that's got a stock motor and has an edited VTEC engagement point (not on a dyno) is a ricer. Anybody that has a switch for VTEC engagement is a ricer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe I'm a ricer. with my sohc vtec-e. no Wait i thought that owning a Honda made people ricers.
B16 out for a SOHC stock in.
Even me, hating the B16 thinks that's a **** swap...
@ OP:
VTEC engages at optimal RPM after a few conditions are met:
- Temperature of engine is above ~170ºF (I think it's 170, I don't have time to check the manual now)
- You're moving at 20+mph (or about there)
- Your RPM is <u>above</u> 4800 (or above that)
After those conditions (plus sufficient oil pressure) are met, it engages when it thinks it should based on the IAT, TPS, and MAP sensor readings. It's not ALWAYS 4800 RPM, if it's all warmed up and ur full throttling it to redline, then yeah, it'll engage then, but if not it might take longer, depending on a few sensors' reading.
VTEC is NOT nitrous, it is not meant for your car to go faster (yes, believe it). It is actually simply meant for your car to run more efficiently. The reason the ECU picks the engagement point is because there's no perfect engagement point, no human can decide "when it's good" to engage it. The VTEC lobes are meant for high RPM usage, turn them on too low, and your engine will bog to ****, continue to do that and you'll blow something.
They're meant for 4800+ (generally speaking) and the computer will decide for you. You can be a ricer and get a VAFC to change it, and you can claim in all your belief that it's faster, but it won't be. It'll be slower, dyno it. You can't change the VTEC engagement point on a stock motor and get more power, when ur a far cry from stock, then it's normal to move the VTEC engagement point, but on a dynometer, not in ur driveway if you get what I'm sayin.
Though even then, VAFC hacks are made useless by the fact that any ECU management you would have with a built setup (such as Crome or Hondata) is able to edit your VTEC engagement point anyways. Therefore making VAFC hacks nothing more than a pile of ****. If you get a good build, then w/ a good tune you'll be good, let a pro change the VTEC engagement point when ur engine's not stock anymore, as of now, it's just ricer suicide.
Think of it as starting your car in 2nd every time and shifting at like 1.5k RPM, your engine'll die.
Civics w/ VTEC have been around for 1.5 decades. If you could just change the VTEC engagement and gain more power, don't you think everybody and their brother would be doing it? VTEC is not nitrous despite some ricer confusion, it is simply a higher efficiency cam lobe for higher RPM.
Summarized:
Don't mess with VTEC, let the computer decide when to engage. Anybody that's got a stock motor and has an edited VTEC engagement point (not on a dyno) is a ricer. Anybody that has a switch for VTEC engagement is a ricer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe I'm a ricer. with my sohc vtec-e. no Wait i thought that owning a Honda made people ricers.
Ek Forever y0!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 16,712
Likes: 9
From: Beating people with a stick, GA
Re: v-tec problem (mustang5.slow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mustang5.slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I believe I'm a ricer. with my sohc vtec-e. no Wait i thought that owning a Honda made people ricers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong.
Ricer's do ridiculous "upgrades" that serve no real function and don't appeal to the general public. Ricer's drive like idiots and rev grandmas at redlights. Ricers are typically slow and rock SOHC with autozone short rams.
Poor choices in whee's (18"+) bad tires and super liud exhausts are only part of what defines a ricer.
I guess technically, we drive "rice burners" but whoever developed that phrase should jump in a hole.
I believe I'm a ricer. with my sohc vtec-e. no Wait i thought that owning a Honda made people ricers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong.
Ricer's do ridiculous "upgrades" that serve no real function and don't appeal to the general public. Ricer's drive like idiots and rev grandmas at redlights. Ricers are typically slow and rock SOHC with autozone short rams.
Poor choices in whee's (18"+) bad tires and super liud exhausts are only part of what defines a ricer.
I guess technically, we drive "rice burners" but whoever developed that phrase should jump in a hole.
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