I'm just really curious as to how Cody and the guys at full-race (not the robotic welds) are able to get such large and fat welds on stainless pipe without burning the material. Do they use something like 1/4" filler, 300amps and dip like theres no tommarow?



I'd like to figure out how to do this because, the welds are obviously strong as hell, it looks like it takes far less time to weld a joint, and...it simply looks very cool.

TIA,
Bryson

 

im pretty sure codys welds look like that because he walks the cup. so ive heard anyways.

 

Thats a definite walking the cup weld.

 

big welds aren't always stronger...you can also put too much heat into the material.

 

not to criticize, but is there some sort of testing done on these welds with results showing strength? i'd base weld strength on testing, not so much on if it looks cool.

 

I hear if you work the torch in a small circular motion to get a wider puddle and then dap thats how its done?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">big welds aren't always stronger...you can also put too much heat into the material.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well put! To add your statement, it also leaves more room for inclusions (error) which can be fatal to a weld.

 

Big welds are not stronger. Having a cap that is too hight causes problems with stress-flow lines. It's like a small notch-effect.
That is the reason most weld certifications ask for a 1/8" cap height MAX.
The welds look good, just that they don't need to be that big.
Add all of the above info, and I don't think I would strive for that exact look.

 

I've heard before....but

Someone needs to delete jaydmcrx's sticky'd "weld info" thread from the top of this forum then, because the information is wrong.

I've always been interested in trying to do the walk the cup method, but I have no idea how these guys can do it on such small pipe.

 

I've tried walking the cup before, I don't think I have spent more than about 5 minutes on it any time before I just say screw this my HAZ area is outa control. Whenever I try to walk the cup the only way I have been able to get full penetration is by putting waaaay too much heat into the metal. I am not really sure what the advantage to walking the cup is supposed to be.

Oh well I hate big fat welds anyways I prefer tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave@passenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried walking the cup before, I don't think I have spent more than about 5 minutes on it any time before I just say screw this my HAZ area is outa control. Whenever I try to walk the cup the only way I have been able to get full penetration is by putting waaaay too much heat into the metal. I am not really sure what the advantage to walking the cup is supposed to be.

Oh well I hate big fat welds anyways I prefer tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I also prefer it tight over fat and sloppy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9bells &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Big welds are not stronger. Having a cap that is too hight causes problems with stress-flow lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you keep the height of the bead down, you should be fine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboJesse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">big welds aren't always stronger...you can also put too much heat into the material.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You usually do walking the cub on the second pass, which is not a penetration pass, more of a filler pass. So there really should be no reason for over heating the pipe on that pass, unless you are moving super slow.

 

If that's walking the cup, then that's a method I've never seen. Walking leaves a distinctive weld pattern which looks like teardrops. That weld looks like a typical dab, move, dab, move weld. Plus, Full Race's "robot welds" do not walk the cup, and their welds are wide.

I have often wondered this myself. Do you pull the arc further away to spread the heat out, use big filler, maybe shape your tungsten with a blunt tip?

Another need for Engloid to be around.

 

he isnt banned anymore, but he doesnt post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he isnt banned anymore, but he doesnt post </TD></TR></TABLE>

Usually if a good welding question like this is asked in the HMT fab forum he usually chimes in outta nowhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Plus, Full Race's "robot welds" do not walk the cup, and their welds are wide.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>


The "robot" welds are not wide, they're very narrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The "robot" welds are not wide, they're very narrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>


agreed.//


VERRRY narrow

 

Yeah walking the cup has this weave pattern in it. kinda looks like figure 8's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The "robot" welds are not wide, they're very narrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Their by-hand welds have seemed to get a lot wider though from what I've noticed. They're not nearly as wide as cody's in this case, but still much wider than some others. I don't really have a point with saying this...just a casual observation...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Their by-hand welds have seemed to get a lot wider though from what I've noticed. They're not nearly as wide as cody's in this case, but still much wider than some others. I don't really have a point with saying this...just a casual observation...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The robot welds are very small on the full race, those collector welds are not robitic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he isnt banned anymore, but he doesnt post </TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually brought this up with him about... well weeks ago. We talked about it and he had a lot of useful things to say, definitely if done right, there is nothing bad about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he isnt banned anymore, but he doesnt post </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I think he figures the damage is done.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The "robot" welds are not wide, they're very narrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...didn't realize that....well then all more the reason I'd like to know how to attain a wide weld like that. It'd come in handy filling a bevel that is a tad wider than usual.

 

the advantage of walking the cup is speed. its much faster then dragging the cup, when one is proficient at it.

 

I do zig zags to spread the heat out. A lot of the heat comes from just the gas you use too. I have the welding company mix a big of oxygen into my gas. Usually makes my welds dime-up a bit better. Those guys make some pretty nice welds but fat welds aren't necessary. As long as it penetrates your good...

 

You use an oxygen mix in your tig welder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The robot welds are very small on the full race, those collector welds are not robitic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why I said "by hand"