Hey guys I have reached the point where it is time to choose which road to take with my 93 del sol and I would just like to know which of the 2 choices you all would go for???

1) If I go turbo on my current d16z6 it would be on a vitara piston/eagle rod-garret T3-stock head setup-with clutch,flywheel etc...

2) If I go H2B the only mods to start out would be clutch,flywheel,I-H-E., chipped p28.


Thanks alot ahead of time for any positive input-I hope this is not a repost-if it is I am sorry I have'nt seen it!!!!

 

depends on what you want..I personally think the H2B is going to be much better than a built SOHC turbo. The torque your gonna get is amazing, along with a b series tranny forget ab it. I would personally choose that set up if I had the money......but again whats ur budget? What do u want the car for? strip, auto cross? daily?

 

take a look at my build low $$$$$$$$$$$$
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1937260

 

Thank dudes- Budget is somewhere around $5000!!!!!
BUMP TOO!!!

 

H2B

 

5000 budget id def go h2b

 

haha, i think this forum might give some biased answers.

Depends on what you want. The SOHC Turbo has potential to be much faster. I'm on the fence about the same thing but leaning more towards a SOHC Turbo.

 

no doubt in my head H2B cause you can always turbo that afterwards but it will still be stupid fast with a good all motor tranny with minor work to the motor

 

H2B is too much torque for crx. Therefore no traction.
A build SOHC turbo can be as fast plus better handling than H2B because of engine weight.
Traction + handling = Winner.

 

Man this thread is turning out just the way I hoped it would!!!!! Yea if I go with the H2B right now it would be awhile before I would have the $$$ to turbo it!!!! I like the thought of having an H22 in my del sol cuz I wouldn't be autocrossing cuz there is not a track anywhere near where I live-but there is an 1/8th mile drag strip about 20 min away.


I guess what I want most out of the car is to hit somewhere in the 7s in the 1/8th cuz my last all motor LS in a crx build with slicks only took me to a 8.5 with a .006 reaction and a 1.8 60'..

 

Yea I thought about getting biased answers in this forum too-so I reposted the same question in the forced induction forum!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX 2.0V-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H2B is too much torque for crx. Therefore no traction.
A build SOHC turbo can be as fast plus better handling than H2B because of engine weight.
Traction + handling = Winner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what bf's are for...h2b all the way....i dont see where you guys come up with the handling issues...if you have good suspension it wont be an issue..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX 2.0V-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H2B is too much torque for crx. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lscivic8.5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys I have reached the point where it is time to choose which road to take with my 93 del sol </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

BUMP

 

h2beezy

 

Sohc turbo

 

I came to the same crossroads in my '93 del Sol. Turbo D16Z6 or H22A?

The H22A will be more reliable for the simple fact that you are not putting a huge strain on the motor like you will with the D. The D will be under constant strain and won't last long. The H22A will be pulling less weight than it was designed for, keep that in mind

I have more power with my H than I did when I was spraying with the D. Only drawback is my sacrifice in handling. So if you like autox, stick with the D. Otherwise, H-series all the way! I'm loving mine, and I still have working factory power steering and cruise control.

 

Thanks alot to everyone you all are really helping out.......But Im still on the fence!!!

 

One more thing... swapping in an H series is a BITCH! Keep in mind you have to get your wiring done, and if you're sending it out to Hasport you will need $$$. Plus the mount kit from Hasport including the rear bracket will run you near $800. Then you need a new radiator (del Sol VTEC) and will have to rig up the lower hose. I took a Prelude hose and fit the bottom piece over a shaved down lower piece so it would clamp down and seal properly. Then you will need to buy axles... a decent set will run you at least $400. I got mine from Gator they are outstanding. You gotta wire up a resistor box for fuel injectors too don't forget. It's all the little stuff that adds up. And before you know it you'll be spending $8000. I definitely spent more than $5k doing mine (probably like 8-10 because I didn't cut any corners, which included a brake upgrade). I'm using an H22A tranny but still the cost is about the same. Putting the motor in is a PAIN IN THE *** but once it's all done you will own every B series and VR6 that pulls up next to you unless they are turboing or spraying

 

i dont think you have think this much, go for H2B..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SolAssassin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One more thing... swapping in an H series is a BITCH! Keep in mind you have to get your wiring done, and if you're sending it out to Hasport you will need $$$. Plus the mount kit from Hasport including the rear bracket will run you near $800. Then you need a new radiator (del Sol VTEC) and will have to rig up the lower hose. I took a Prelude hose and fit the bottom piece over a shaved down lower piece so it would clamp down and seal properly. Then you will need to buy axles... a decent set will run you at least $400. I got mine from Gator they are outstanding. You gotta wire up a resistor box for fuel injectors too don't forget. It's all the little stuff that adds up. And before you know it you'll be spending $8000. I definitely spent more than $5k doing mine (probably like 8-10 because I didn't cut any corners, which included a brake upgrade). I'm using an H22A tranny but still the cost is about the same. Putting the motor in is a PAIN IN THE *** but once it's all done you will own every B series and VR6 that pulls up next to you unless they are turboing or spraying </TD></TR></TABLE>


He's talking about H2B, therefore you don't need to buy "$800" mounts, just regular B-series mounts ($300ish). If you source the parts correctly and get good prices, you could have an H2B setup for around $3000 (not including the car that is)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX 2.0V-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H2B is too much torque for crx. Therefore no traction.
A build SOHC turbo can be as fast plus better handling than H2B because of engine weight.
Traction + handling = Winner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf

What kind of shitty SOHC turbo motor has less torque than a NA H22? lol

 

Expletive the 2 choices are neck and neck- this decision is getting harder!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iSRT_Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


He's talking about H2B, therefore you don't need to buy "$800" mounts, just regular B-series mounts ($300ish). If you source the parts correctly and get good prices, you could have an H2B setup for around $3000 (not including the car that is)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah well the B series mounts aren't much less $$$. He wil still need the bracket which is not included with the mounts, and with tax and shipping it will still come close. And last time I checked the adapter plate for H2B wasn't free. And $3000? Clearly you've never done this swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lscivic8.5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Expletive the 2 choices are neck and neck- this decision is getting harder!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey man I don't want to discourage you! I love my H22. If I had to do it again I'm not sure if I would have. Clearly an H22A will be more reliable because instead of maxxing it out like the D series, you will be pulling a lighter load than the H was designed for. If you value your handling, stick with the D. I used to autox with this car but now I am out of the game until my next car that I'm building is finished. But don't listen to these guys on here who have never done the swap because if they had actually done it, they would tell you that it gets expensive. I had the full swap delivered to me from Japan for $2000. Then I needed mounts, and axles, and a new radiator, and a timing belt and water pump, and belts and hoses, and a hybrid intake, and a header. Plus, from the header back you pretty much have to get an exhaust custom fabricated unless you or one of your best friends will do it for free, it will run you some $$$. All this stuff adds up, and I'm leaving out a lot. Plus there is a lot of work to be done to get it all running. You will need to splice your wire harness. The P13 that comes with the swap? Either you run a wire for knock sensor and get your EGR system in place or you will be getting a check engine light. I got my P28 chipped with a P72 basemap for IABs with H22A fuel and ignition maps. Also, you will be using a manifold that utilizes IABs. They won't be coming with the swap I can promise you that. And without them it will run like ****. I had to scrounge to get all of the pieces together and wire it all up, but now finally I have it all and it runs great. If you get a JDM motor, be prepared to scrounge the junkyards for Accord fuel rails unless you plan on relocating your fuel filter over to your driver's side (which by the way you will need to relocate it anyways). I tried cutting corners buying cheaper mounts and it blew up in my face. If you're going to do this, DON'T CUT CORNERS! But also keep in mind you're in for a lot of work. I'm leaving a lot out to try and keep this as short as possible. One thing's for sure... your car will sell for at least 9k on eBay if you want to get rid of it with an H22A swap