Well, im about 75% into buying all the parts I need, and what started out as just being a simple B16 swap and drive it like that, has turned into a 400whp LSVT goal.

Since its all going to be done in one step, building, swapping, turboing, tuning, without any intermediate steps to make sure the previous steps were done right I want to make sure I'm doing everything right and I got everything I need.

The other problem, is that I keep buying parts, and changing my mind, so I want to make sure all the parts that I get that are new, are still kosher with the previously bought parts.

Car: Stock powertrain wise, 89 CRX Si.
What I got:

Complete b16 swap over, hassport mounts, axles, linkadges, obd0 ecu.
b16 obd1 dizzy
obd1 conversion harness
p72 Chipped ECU
Oil lines kit for a t3/t4
GT3076R Turbo (see what I mean about parts mismatching <&lt lol
VictorX Intake Mani.
GSR cams
Hondata S100b.
Tial 38mm WG.
Eagle rods, and stock bore CP 9:1 comp pistons (dont need those now, since going LSVT, ****) Anybody want them? lol
B16 tranny.
OBX Diff.
AVCR

Now here is where I need you guys. In the parts that I still need. Make sure the list is right.
B18a or b18b bottom end (pretty sure there is no difference)
LSVtec Kit (any good brands?)
Full gasket set for LSV
Different return flange for the T3/t4 oil lines to work with the GT30.
LS rods and pistons.
Head studs (for b16 or LS?)
and other stuff, thats universal so it dosnt matter.

Thanks.

Ps. Yeah im kinda nuts to do it all in one step, but like I said i want to make sure it will run on the first crank over.

 

for the ls vtec kit i hear alot of good things about the golden eagle kit

 

golden eagle it is

now to find a nice ls bottom end

 

I absolutely would not do everything at once, you're asking for problems in diagnosing any issues to come up. Good luck with it either way.

 

lol

i dont really have a choice, so i guess we'll see

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vovchandr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now here is where I need you guys. In the parts that I still need. Make sure the list is right.
B18a or b18b bottom end (pretty sure there is no difference)
LSVtec Kit (any good brands?)
Full gasket set for LSV
Different return flange for the T3/t4 oil lines to work with the GT30.
LS rods and pistons.
Head studs (for b16 or LS?)
and other stuff, thats universal so it dosnt matter.

Thanks.

Ps. Yeah im kinda nuts to do it all in one step, but like I said i want to make sure it will run on the first crank over.</TD></TR></TABLE>

B18a and B18b are pretty much identical...internally yes but thee are a few differences with some sensors....(I PMed you about a motor I have currently)

You can probably use the B16 pistons you have bothe LS and B16 have the same bore, you just need to grab some Eagle LS rods and ARP rod bolts

Golden Eagle LS/Vtec Kit

B16 ARP headstuds

GSR tming belt I believe, not 100% sure and then a headgasket for the B16

 

Without modification to the lower end...I dont think you're going to be able to handle that kind of horsepower without sleeving the block.

 

Hmmm...I think with a good tune the LS will be fine...Stock Honda sleeves are pretty strong...a completely stock LS motor is more than capable of making over 300hp...and usually the things to go then are ringlands...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bejita &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Without modification to the lower end...I dont think you're going to be able to handle that kind of horsepower without sleeving the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

With a good tune, and rods and pistons most B series motors, can hold 400ish whp on stock sleeves, there are around 7 around here with 400 on pump all tuned by the same guy, which have no problems, and my buddy is doing 500ish on race gas stock sleeves LSVT

The B series pistons would work, but they are stock bore, and its definatly better to go with oversize, on old sleeves and old blocks.

thanks for the info though, Loserkidwac

Sleeving the block at about 400 is more of an insurance then a necesity

 

I don't see a problem going from 108 to 400+ as long as you have some selfcontrol. I know how much fun it can be

As for the build, I would run atleast some forged rod & pistons, OEM pistons are known for cracking ringlands quite easy.

If it were me... I'd sleeve it too. But thats me. I just know how I drive and stock blocks can fail really easy with repeated pulls back to back... I would want to be able to road race it if need be

Oh and dont forget a good clutch. I run a tilton in mine.

 

If anything this also kinda shows as well why not to rush and or go nuts, look at all the mis matches you have the junk that won't work together well etc.

It'll be fine around 400 sleaving would be a nice peace of mine though.

If you know how to drive and or understand how cars with that kind of power behave then you will be ok.

 

GSR head studs arp

golden eagle kit is good

get the head gasket for the block you are using

arp rod bolts

full race also makes a lsv oil kit

 

I wouldn't want to run cast pistons if you are shooting for 400whp, they are very soft and brittle in lament terms. I'm not sure if this is going to be your daily driver, but anything above 300whp fwd on the street is useless in regards to traction.
I wouldn't want run 400whp on stock cast pistons. I don't care how well its tuned something eventually will go.
A close friend of mine had a stock lsvtec build running a t3/t4 *like everyone else and their grandmom*. It was tuned very well and the motor lasted 8 months. A ringland broke on one of the pistons. The car ran 11.9 at 121mph in a eg hatch, he was running 9lbs it made 280-290whp.
I'm no turbo expert, but hopefully others will chime in............

 

You guys must have misunderstood me, I never meant to say i'll run stock rods and pistons.

No way im going with anything less then CP's and Eagles like i got now, but like i said, now i got the wrong stuff and need LS rods and overbore pistons.

Anybody neeed b16 stuff? =P

Edit: Thanks for the reply's, and yes that just goes to show not to go crazy or keep changing your mind.

At this point, I really dont have a choice but get it done, because too many people found out about my build and I got too many parts and too much time invested to just part it out, so the only logical solution is to finish it.

 

I always think to build the long block to handle 100hp more than I plan on running. Yes with the right piston to cylinder wall clearance that bottom end should be able the handle 400hp, but it’s kind of a time bomb waiting to go off. I personally would not run more than 350 on high boost and 300hp dd. Then you know you don’t have to worry about it. If your going to step up to 400hp dd I would sleeve it. If for some reason that set up fails you will have to get it sleeved anyway.

 

...main cap girdle, balance crank, PP head
Everyone hates on block guards but I respect this(www.theoldone.com) web site and they suggest it. I have more links at work for LS-VTEC I'll help you out with some tomorrow

 

good luck on ur build. Also, everytime i see ur avatar, i put on a rap song and like to think he is dancing. He does the best with "GET BUCKED". It makes me giggle and pee a little bit

 

are you 100% hellbent on the number "400" ?

 

ok here we go these are basic stuff that you may have already read
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/...56400

tranny ratios for the B
http://www.allmotorhonda.com/t...s.htm

where you might want to send the tranny that you get
http://www.gearspeedinc.com/products.htm

place to buy the LS-VTEC kit
http://shopping.lightningmotor...t=161

well theres the help I can give....GL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you 100% hellbent on the number "400" ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

He won't be when he has no traction on the street. Then he'll probably turn the wick down.

 

1st+2nd are completely useless @&gt;250 3rd is ok to about 300-325 4th is good till ~400... atleast on my car with Azenis.

What you will want is a gear dependant boost controller, (NRL, innovative, world electronics ect).

I use the innovative one. The only thing I don't like about it is it has no way of telling exactly what gear you are in... It activates the different stages via clutch switch.

The NLR can take a 0-5vdc signal for gear position, which is nice.... no reseting it for each run. It has alot of functions also that are really good for tuning for traction.

The world unit can calculate gear via rpm vs. wheel speed. I've never see one up close and havent heard any real world feedback on it either.

 

if your going turbo why not just build your b16? you can get just as much performance out of a b16 as a ls/vtec. there are many 400 whp b16's and its alot less of a headache than trying to match up all the parts for a ls/vtec

 

As far as traction, i got that covered as much as I can, BFG drag radials, OBX diff, traction bar, gear based boost controller (AVCR), stiffened mounts, and a smooth power curve with GT30 to not get any sudden boosts of power that break traction.

Im definatly set on at least hitting 400whp, so i can be on somewhat even terms with 4 other turbo 400whp hondas.

As far as why not go with the b16? If im spending all this money, i want at least bang back for the buck, and since there is pretty much no downside to going with LSVT and you'll get a ton more tq, might as well for a little bit more money.

A b16 will defintaly have a lot less traction issues, a buddy of mine dynoed 384whp on a b16 in an EG hatch, and he actually had traction in first (crappy setup, dynoed 330 a month later, but thats another story), and full traction in second.

Thanks for the reply's, I definatly want to get this right, the first time around

 

Found an LS bottom end from a buddy of mine.

Only thing its got is a crank, but thats pretty much the only thing I need, 200$

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

 

I guess I can help a little more....people say to strip down & clean out the OBX lsd....here's a link to the process (makes it look pretty easy)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1752849