should the idle be high on a b16a with dc 4-2-1 headers and a aem cold air intake it sounds like its hitting 1000 or 1500 but not to sure due to my rpm tach not working , and my machanic said i have to swap the jdm gauge over i was also planning on adjusting my throttle a little bit too , if this is true can i put on after market gauge faces or will there be and issue in mph vs kph? and should i be spewing black smoke like an 18 wheeler? cuz its bad. and my engine sputters a lil bit wen anyone got theirs back did it sputter a little bit? i retarded my ignition and it seemed to change it alot but theres still a lil bit of sputtering going on but no where near as bad as b4 my friend who has alot of experiance with cars said that the puttering will be gone i just have to break in the engine i just picked it up monday after sitting for 6 months + trying to get parts. also my car is a bear to start in the morning, i live in new hampshire and cold starts kill me, it takes like 5+ minutes to start could this be the starter or what? i just want to know if there is anything really wrong with it so lets here it . check the pic form soon ill have pics up on there anyways thanks yall

 

bump!! i need help asap pleaz help me

 

First of all you don't need the JDM Cluster. That will not make any difference. All you need is a working 90-91 si/ex cluster, check out ebay if your's doesn't work. No need to f*&k with the idle unless the linkage isn't set right. Frist of all you need to time it, then adjust the valves, then the IACV. Follow the TUNE UP procedures in your Helms or whatever book you have. Then go from there. If you have any Check Engine Codes, take care of those first!

 

ok thanks even tho im completely broke and have no cash for a while but this is helpful i think the tuner didnt hook up the tec cuz it worked b4 the swap...if i drive this engine as is for a week will i be ok ? becuz i need it for a week then i can take it and fix it ?

 

im sorry ur sig is so funny.........how did you mount your throtle cable


Modified by jayturboef at 6:12 AM 3/31/2007

 

thanks...but think u have answers for my post?

 

Sounds like your first problem might be old gas. If you have no tach then how do you know what your RPM's are. Is it a JDM swap? OBD0, 1, 2? What ECU did your tuner use? Long cold starts are sometimes timing or Dizzy related.

91hatch has good advice there follow it.

 

i have an odb0 , and as f the rpm u can just tell by listening its higher than it should be and also on a hill i dont have to use the gas to get going, i just let of the clutch and the car moves.....thats not right......no gas, car moves w/o stalling. and its a jdm b16, and i used the stock pr3 ecu and i adjusted the dizzy maybe ill keep adjusting it and try that if not then ima try using a timing light and go from there but will this car be fine for a week to drive? ok so wat do u all think now that i stated this ? btw i have no cat would the no back pressure be one reason ?

 

Did you say if you have a CEL or not? Also, my car used to take forever to warm up and the heater would take forever to get warm. Started thinking about it and decided that maybe my Thermostat was stuck open. New stat and faster warm up. -2cents-

 

the black smoke says that you running too rich so you really need to figure what is with that do you have a CEL on if so what codes are you throwing

 

Well also, if you keep retarding your timing like you say, then that could cause you to run rich also.

 

wat is a cel? and i only retarded the ignition because it was way to far advanced, and i think maybe one of the cylinders may be completely dead, because wen the car shuts down i hear clunking alot like somethings bouncing around or somethin idk thanks for the help ill keep u all posted

 

CEL is (Check Engine Light). How do you know that it was too far advanced? Did you use a timing light? If your not using a light then you are probably way off anyways. High idle is caused by several things. Usualy when your timing is corrected the idle is higher because of a better combustion mixture but there are also other things that will effect the idle. TPS, IACV Vaccume lines, all have to do with your Idle.

 

i new the timing was advanced because the line on the dizzy was way to far forward, then i adjusted it and it ran fine for a while. then the high idle wasnt fixed and yea i have a cel, ill have to check the code this week and ill post on that wen i no

 

Make sure no matter what the code is to fix it first.

 

ok ima hook up a scan tool today in the auto tech shop im in and run a compression test see if anything is up with that too like blown rings or gasket

 

No need to use a scan tool! If it is obd0 pull back the carpet and check the ecu for blinks! If it is obd1 ground out your timing adjustment connector and watch the check engine light flash!

 

ok ill do that its odb0 and i checked the compression and somehow managed 200 on all for cylinders, now i dont think thats right whats going on with that ? should it be that high?

 

ok now my shift linkage fell off last night can someone show me diagrams on it the link concted to the tranny it self fell off if that helps one bolt holds it on,,,,,is there suposed to me comething in the bronze cylinder?

 

1st off, whoever your mechanic is: NEVER GO TO THEM AGAIN.

I don't even know where to start... Find out what code you're throwing and fix that first. When your engine is throwing a code that is a pretty good "clue" as to what the problem might be, hence the "on board diagnostics". The high idle is likely related.

It sounds like something was rigged in the hole where the roll pin in the shift linkage should be. Let me guess: the shifting was sloppy as hell before it broke? Get a new linkage pin from the dealer, that's an easy fix.

Stop messing with the timing without a timing gun!

The car is "dieseling" after you turn it off because you're running really rich. Are your O2 sensors hooked up? I doubt it.

.

 

You need to know what code you have.....learn to read them.

When you adjusted your timing did you use a jumper??? I bet you didn't. You cant just adjust timming without a light or without jumping the diagnostic port thingy.

Do a search....you have a long way to go.

 

man oh man... you should put your car to the side and save up some cash. you're financially not ready for a project like this. also, you really need to read up and check on the archives on ht for answers. almost EVERY issue can be answered in a thread thats been made months or even years ago. if your car isn't running right then don't drive it at all. your motor will probably go downhill from there.

 

ok and yea someone said look on my ecu cuz i have odb0 and nothings blinking where do i look? and yea im saving up some green and getting it fixed or atleast checked, next week and as for the linkage if there was suposed to be a bushing...there wasnt......ill keep u all posted on this as i find out stuff. thanks yall, and soon ill take some pics and post them in the pic fourm

 

There should be a clear circle like the size of a nickle or so maybe smaller, in the center of your ecu. Turn the key on and if you are throwing a code it will blink!

 

ok thanks work on that today, how is omni coilovers, street version ? cuz after tuning up my engine and fixing my shift linkage ill be getting coilovers.....lemme no thanks