Rear trailing arm, bushing question
Borrowed the pic from another thread

I have a general question, I have a set of energy suspension trailing arm bushings ( the big bushing seen in the pic ) and I have followed the step by step procedure on how to install this bushing. My question is when the pin slides in the new bushing ( bushing is not pressed in yet ) there is about 1/4 of clearance, which means the pin is super loose inside there.
Is there suppose to be a sleeve that goes inside or something ? Would the bushing be compressed that much when its pressed in ? I don't really think its going to compress down 1/4 of an inch

I have a general question, I have a set of energy suspension trailing arm bushings ( the big bushing seen in the pic ) and I have followed the step by step procedure on how to install this bushing. My question is when the pin slides in the new bushing ( bushing is not pressed in yet ) there is about 1/4 of clearance, which means the pin is super loose inside there.
Is there suppose to be a sleeve that goes inside or something ? Would the bushing be compressed that much when its pressed in ? I don't really think its going to compress down 1/4 of an inch
yes, i think there is a sleeve that slips in, then the pin.. just like the other es bushings..
imo, don't install the ES trailing arm bushing.
it is not designed to sway correctly, and will definitely ruin your handling.
reinstall the oem one or get a new oem one.. and install that instead, make sure that you "clock" it correctly.
to clock the bushing correctly..
with the suspension fully assembled, lower the car so it sits like it would normally... on all 4 wheels.
then take a ruler.. and line up the ruler to the bushing/under floor pan.. make a mark.. that is your clock line
when you install the new bushing make sure that the mounting pin is lined up with that line..
that way when the car sits normally.. it does not pre load that bushing..
the pre load will deteriorate the life of the bushing.
imo, don't install the ES trailing arm bushing.
it is not designed to sway correctly, and will definitely ruin your handling.
reinstall the oem one or get a new oem one.. and install that instead, make sure that you "clock" it correctly.
to clock the bushing correctly..
with the suspension fully assembled, lower the car so it sits like it would normally... on all 4 wheels.
then take a ruler.. and line up the ruler to the bushing/under floor pan.. make a mark.. that is your clock line
when you install the new bushing make sure that the mounting pin is lined up with that line..
that way when the car sits normally.. it does not pre load that bushing..
the pre load will deteriorate the life of the bushing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, i think there is a sleeve that slips in, then the pin.. just like the other es bushings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I assumed, anyone else care to confirm ?
This is what I assumed, anyone else care to confirm ?
When I did those bushings years ago, there was no slack between the pin and the bushing. I took them out, however, after reading several threads here about suspension bind, and then experiencing it myself. Get the OEM bushings and simply replace.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in refrence to bind do you think filling the stock bushings with urethane would have the same negative effects?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
The trailing arm bushing needs to deform under normal movement. Urethane won't allow that, thus you get binding.
Yes.
The trailing arm bushing needs to deform under normal movement. Urethane won't allow that, thus you get binding.
Trending Topics
I just install these bushings not too long ago. I would say about 2 months ago. They were the OEM bushings for 25.00 bucks each. I remember installing these and they were pretty easy, took me 15 mins per side with the Trailing arm tool.. I would using OEM. I have heard and driven some cars that had the ES or Mugen bushing. Feels kind of stiff in the back. OEM is always best...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chinoty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM is always best...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so then you drive a 100% stock car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>so then you drive a 100% stock car?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so then you drive a 100% stock car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so then you drive a 100% stock car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GagnarTheUnruly
Suspension & Brakes
7
Jun 13, 2011 12:35 PM
Chef Andre
Suspension & Brakes
26
Dec 21, 2008 11:38 PM







