So yeah I know the reason for swapping to a manual tensioner(I did it my self) Seems that the Honda tensioners tend to fail when pushed too hard. But what about after market tensioners. Gates and Contitech are very reputable after market Timing belt suppliers (and also OEM suppliers) and they offer replacement auto tensioners. Wouldnt it make sense to just buy one of those rather than messing with manual conversion???

 

no.

manual > auto

any day

as long as you maintain it.

 

and btw, doing the conversion is easy. $110 in parts, and once the timing belt cover and all is out of the way, I can do the "conversion" in about 10minutes tops.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no.

manual &gt; auto

any day

as long as you maintain it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you come to this conclusion?? It takes about 200lbs of force to compress an auto tensioner, so if its properly functioning then it should be just as good dont you think??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How do you come to this conclusion?? It takes about 200lbs of force to compress an auto tensioner, so if its properly functioning then it should be just as good dont you think??</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is just as good 'while it's functioning'. But they are a weak point on the engine, are are prone to fail, especially on built motors. There have been numerous posts on here where the auto-tensioner has thrown the towel in and trashed the engine.
Replacing them along with the cambelt every 60k is a good idea. Replacing them with the manual tensioner is a better idea

 

they prolly all come from the same place anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UK_Luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is just as good 'while it's functioning'. But they are a weak point on the engine, are are prone to fail, especially on built motors. There have been numerous posts on here where the auto-tensioner has thrown the towel in and trashed the engine.
Replacing them along with the cambelt every 60k is a good idea. Replacing them with the manual tensioner is a better idea </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I have yet to read a post of an autotensioner failing on a built engine. Most of the tensioner failures that I have seen are on stock engines usually obd 1. Honda has a revised tensioner and since failure would likely result in a new engine dont you think they would hold up better????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rosko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they prolly all come from the same place anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Possibly....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually I have yet to read a post of an autotensioner failing on a built engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

because no one who builds their motor would be dumb enough to use the auto tensioner if they know any better.

and in the past ive noticed most of the tensioner failures happen shortly after a TB has been replaced. so why would a brand new tensioner fail?

 

Since this thread is titled "auto tensioner discussion" I thought i'd ask my question in here instead of making a new thread. heres my question.....


I just did the timing belt and water pump and a new hydraulic tensioner on my 98 Prelude Type SH and now the water pump is leaking. Would it be because the tensioner's too tight?

 

i have always used auto tensioners and have never had a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UA6 BALLER STATUS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since this thread is titled "auto tensioner discussion" I thought i'd ask my question in here instead of making a new thread. heres my question.....


I just did the timing belt and water pump and a new hydraulic tensioner on my 98 Prelude Type SH and now the water pump is leaking. Would it be because the tensioner's too tight? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no

is it leaking from the weep hole or from the gasket?

if its from the weep hole you got a bad pump.

if its from the gasket you probably didnt install it correctly using hondabond over the gasket. and/or you may not have cleaned the block surface well enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have always used auto tensioners and have never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats because you have a horse shoe up your a$$ mr. 11.99

 

i have never had an issue with auto tensioners on the 5 h22's i have personally owned and driven on. when i built an engine though with high pressure springs and big lobe cams i went with a manual tensioner since I am pretty confident that the honda engineers did not plan those loads into the auto tensioner.

The only place i have heard of the auto tensioner failing is on this forum and one or two others, never seen it in real life, even working in a honda junkyard and managing a honda repair shop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCFIVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It takes about 200lbs of force to compress an auto tensioner, so if its properly functioning then it should be just as good dont you think??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Add high rpms, engine vibration, and bad mojo and you'll see why a $100 conversion is better than a 200lb resistant auto tensioner.

 

The reason you don't see built engines run auto tensioner is because if they fail on stock engines why would you even attempt to risk them on a built engine.

 

Does anyone have the link to where it shows you what to convert and how to? I found it on here AWHILE ago and I cant anymore.....

Im about to swap mine to a manual one b/c my auto one has already gone out once....

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=549516

 

Thank ya!

 

manual tensioners are the $hit specially on built H22s and running nitrous.

When rebuilding H22s or going Turbo/Nitrous/Super charger/ Or just doing a high compression build the manual tensioner is just the way to go "No Doubt"

Check this kit out this what you need for the conversion http://www.hondamarketplace.co...19608

 

I see it as insurance, i'm not going to risk my motor for $110

 

how often do you have to readjust the manual tensioners?

 

Occasionally. The tension should be inspected routinely (maybe once a year sort of thing in my opinion), and adjustments should be made when theres too much play in the belt. Or if theres whinning. Than it needs to be inspected, and adjusted accordingly (too tight likely, but this usually only applies right after a timing belt job)

 

To date I have not heard of a new or revised autotensioner failure. I will say again the failures seem to arise from used motors and reused tensioners...