Wires Are too Short
I got a professional to hook up a Car deck to my 92 accord, but the thing is, instead of using a wiring harness, he spliced the wires, and now the wires are extremely short, making them extremely hard to put in another head unit if need be. Can i somehow get new wires to replace the old short ones.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
do you mean he cut the factory harness off? or tagged into the harness and left the factory plug on. If your out of post just drop a pm
I see your a noob at the site
I see your a noob at the site
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonlord9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a professional to hook up a Car deck to my 92 accord, but the thing is, instead of using a wiring harness, he spliced the wires, and now the wires are extremely short, making them extremely hard to put in another head unit if need be. Can i somehow get new wires to replace the old short ones.</TD></TR></TABLE> Let's not call a guy who cuts the stock harness off a professional.
Can you take a pix of the connections?
You could hard wire, [solder and shrink tube] a rev. harness in... http://www.scosche.com/scosche...A02RB
May not be easy if stock radio harness is cut very short, but would allow for easy HU swaps in the future.
94
Can you take a pix of the connections?
You could hard wire, [solder and shrink tube] a rev. harness in... http://www.scosche.com/scosche...A02RB
May not be easy if stock radio harness is cut very short, but would allow for easy HU swaps in the future.
94
You can pull the wires back to under the dash and then extend them, or replace the whole cluster harness. I replaced my cluster harness.
Next time go to a reputable shop even if it costs more.
Next time go to a reputable shop even if it costs more.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Next time go to a reputable shop even if it costs more.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or do it yourself.
Or do it yourself.
Yeah I was thinking of extending the wires by soldering them and then using electrical tape, but they're very short making it difficult to do so, but i'll give it a try, I have all the supplies I need at home. Can someone give me recomendations that if I did this, how would i be able to tell the wiring color code to where they hook up. (or just use the battery +Voltmeter tests everytime I hookup a new HU)?
[QUOTE=dragonlord9]Yeah I was thinking of extending the wires by soldering them and then using electrical tape[QUOTE]
i think you meant to say heat shrink right?
i think you meant to say heat shrink right?
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http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/HA-Wiring.pdf and you did mean heat shrink/shrink tube, didn't you?
Hint, in real close quarters, I cut all the leads to the same length, then strip 1/4" of insulation of each lead and twist the strands tight, and "tin" them.
I will do the same with the harness that I am connecting to the short leads, and slip shrink tube on the all the leads in the harness I am going to connect to the short leads, running them up the leads as far as possible and use a wire tie to to keep them from slipping down,
Now one at a time I will "adjust" a sort lead into a position with no other wires around it and so I can hold the wire I am connecting to it parallel to it, overlapping that 1/4" of bare wire, so the two bare, pre-tined wires are next to each other.
I then pick up a drop of solder on the tip of my solder station pencil, and touch it to the 2 tined leads that I am holding together, [a steady hand is needed, as wire can not be moved untill solder cools] when solder "runs" remove solder tip and let solder cool, blowing on it will cool it down faster, but do not move the connection when you do so.
Did I mention not to move the connection until the solder cools, it is important.
If the above is done properly, you will have a good connection, that is strong, [if you didn't move it, oh right, I already mentioned that], once they are all done, cut wire tie, and slide shrink tube into place and shrink.
If you where smart you would have got a piece shrink tube big enough to slid over all the wires and shrink tubed connections and stink that also.
One more thing, keep the wires as orderly as possible, avoid crisscrossing wires as much as possible, the last thing you want is for the harness/plug that you just made up, look like it was braided
94
Hint, in real close quarters, I cut all the leads to the same length, then strip 1/4" of insulation of each lead and twist the strands tight, and "tin" them.
I will do the same with the harness that I am connecting to the short leads, and slip shrink tube on the all the leads in the harness I am going to connect to the short leads, running them up the leads as far as possible and use a wire tie to to keep them from slipping down,
Now one at a time I will "adjust" a sort lead into a position with no other wires around it and so I can hold the wire I am connecting to it parallel to it, overlapping that 1/4" of bare wire, so the two bare, pre-tined wires are next to each other.
I then pick up a drop of solder on the tip of my solder station pencil, and touch it to the 2 tined leads that I am holding together, [a steady hand is needed, as wire can not be moved untill solder cools] when solder "runs" remove solder tip and let solder cool, blowing on it will cool it down faster, but do not move the connection when you do so.
Did I mention not to move the connection until the solder cools, it is important.
If the above is done properly, you will have a good connection, that is strong, [if you didn't move it, oh right, I already mentioned that], once they are all done, cut wire tie, and slide shrink tube into place and shrink.
If you where smart you would have got a piece shrink tube big enough to slid over all the wires and shrink tubed connections and stink that also.
One more thing, keep the wires as orderly as possible, avoid crisscrossing wires as much as possible, the last thing you want is for the harness/plug that you just made up, look like it was braided
94
WOW, you guys have been a great help. I'll hardwire a new factory harness in the steps fcm have outlines and then get a wiring harness for other HU swaps in the future. Thanks a lot guys 'specially fcm!
PS: Now i mean shrink tube.
PS: Now i mean shrink tube.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hint, in real close quarters, I cut all the leads to the same length, then strip 1/4" of insulation of each lead and twist the strands tight, and "tin" them.
I will do the same with the harness that I am connecting to the short leads, and slip shrink tube on the all the leads in the harness I am going to connect to the short leads, running them up the leads as far as possible and use a wire tie to to keep them from slipping down,
Now one at a time I will "adjust" a sort lead into a position with no other wires around it and so I can hold the wire I am connecting to it parallel to it, overlapping that 1/4" of bare wire, so the two bare, pre-tined wires are next to each other.
I then pick up a drop of solder on the tip of my solder station pencil, and touch it to the 2 tined leads that I am holding together, [a steady hand is needed, as wire can not be moved untill solder cools] when solder "runs" remove solder tip and let solder cool, blowing on it will cool it down faster, but do not move the connection when you do so.
Did I mention not to move the connection until the solder cools, it is important.
If the above is done properly, you will have a good connection, that is strong, [if you didn't move it, oh right, I already mentioned that], once they are all done, cut wire tie, and slide shrink tube into place and shrink.
If you where smart you would have got a piece shrink tube big enough to slid over all the wires and shrink tubed connections and stink that also.
One more thing, keep the wires as orderly as possible, avoid crisscrossing wires as much as possible, the last thing you want is for the harness/plug that you just made up, look like it was braided
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
for some good advice
I like to stagger the length of my wires so that I don't end up with a giant bump in the harness where I did all of the connections. but all the same length makes it easier
Hint, in real close quarters, I cut all the leads to the same length, then strip 1/4" of insulation of each lead and twist the strands tight, and "tin" them.
I will do the same with the harness that I am connecting to the short leads, and slip shrink tube on the all the leads in the harness I am going to connect to the short leads, running them up the leads as far as possible and use a wire tie to to keep them from slipping down,
Now one at a time I will "adjust" a sort lead into a position with no other wires around it and so I can hold the wire I am connecting to it parallel to it, overlapping that 1/4" of bare wire, so the two bare, pre-tined wires are next to each other.
I then pick up a drop of solder on the tip of my solder station pencil, and touch it to the 2 tined leads that I am holding together, [a steady hand is needed, as wire can not be moved untill solder cools] when solder "runs" remove solder tip and let solder cool, blowing on it will cool it down faster, but do not move the connection when you do so.
Did I mention not to move the connection until the solder cools, it is important.
If the above is done properly, you will have a good connection, that is strong, [if you didn't move it, oh right, I already mentioned that], once they are all done, cut wire tie, and slide shrink tube into place and shrink.
If you where smart you would have got a piece shrink tube big enough to slid over all the wires and shrink tubed connections and stink that also.
One more thing, keep the wires as orderly as possible, avoid crisscrossing wires as much as possible, the last thing you want is for the harness/plug that you just made up, look like it was braided
94</TD></TR></TABLE>
for some good adviceI like to stagger the length of my wires so that I don't end up with a giant bump in the harness where I did all of the connections. but all the same length makes it easier
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