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Fuse holders for car stereo amps.

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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Default Fuse holders for car stereo amps.

There has been many debates on what a fuse holder really is. What kind should I use. What one is better. Each has its own purpose and can be used in any configuration. Some have limits. Many installers use what every they have in there inventory or at the time of install. Its really up to you and your budget. Here are a list of some.


First we will start off with the regular atc fuse.


Good for a entry level sound system. And thats about it. They come in entry level kits for a reason. There cheap. I seen these produce voltage drop because of the fuse holder design. There easy to get water and weather in the case and corrode the terminals. They also have a limit because most atc fuses only go up to a 40 amp. Good thing about these is that you can get fuses anywere for it. And for really cheap. You will most likely never see them in apps under 8 gauge. I could be wrong because of ebay creation.

Next is the maxi fuse

This is the big brother to the atc fuse. Its the same but just really bigger. And can handel more current. I really don't use these much under the hood because of the holder design. Its alot better then the atc design because most are screwed in to there holder depending on the company. You will find these types of fuses on amps sometimes. Like the soundstream units and others


Next is the agu glass fuse holder.

These units are good if you buy high quality ones. There are cheap ones out there That can cause voltage drop because of there design. If you look at the cheaper ones. Look into were the fuse is put into. It will most of the time be held into place by a small peice of coiled metal. This keep most of the contact off of the fuse were it is suppose to be. I seen these units fail because of this. Most cheaper unit will arc back and forth between the fuse and the holder. In turn it will weld itself toghter making it unchangeable when the fuse blows. Also on these units the fuse is allways know to look good when it blows. This is because the fuse might not blow in the middle were you can see it. It ends up melting the solder point on the case to the filament. This allways mostly occurs with cheap swapmeet fuses. But it does happen with high quality. Also these are not know as "fusiable links" never have never will.

Next are the mini anl


Nonething really bad to say about them. Its a good solid design. I never seen these fail or create voltage drop. Its a good step up from the agu fuses in a system. Or for anybody thats want to look diffrent. The only problem would be finding fuses for them at a dinky stereo shop or out on the road. The fuses will cost more then a standered agu glass type.

Next is the reg anl

Perfect unit to go with if your budget allows. Really good solid design. More fuse contact. Fuse ratings are high on these up to 300 amp. I even seen a 500 amp rating one . But be prepared to shell out big bucks for them. They sell from $13 to 25 buxs a fuse. Ouch costly.

Next is the circuit breaker

I use to use them thinking that I will save money on fuses in the long run. I was using one during a show back in the day. It was not a cheap unit and its was from "PG" for all that know what company that is. Well the dam thing failed and did not trip and nearly burnt down my baby civic. Lets just say the amp was not no longer good and there was burnt wire from the back of the car to the fire wall. And a exploded battery under the hood. Cost more to fix the car then the dam unit was worth. But its better then nonething. If your using one I say back it up with a fuse still. You can never be to safe.


Lastly but not forgotten

Never seen one used in a amp power wire run. Don't think it ever will. Mostly 12-14 gauge wire. But you know people out here. They will try anything.


Hopefully you guys that are not into car audio will take notes on these. And choose your product right. Get the right stuff from the begining and you won't have to do it twice.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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What kind of holder would I need to use one of these??





We just installed a bunch of those in the battery racks at the 911 center we're putting together...
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
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welllll.............ummmmmm............hummm...... ... well hell I don't know of any brands... but I fab you up one, lol. 800amp dam
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 06:51 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of holder would I need to use one of these??





We just installed a bunch of those in the battery racks at the 911 center we're putting together... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i used to carry around a box of those. (and i'm not even kidding)
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Default Re: (EBP_SI)

I think its about time someone did a writeup like this. i've been meaning to but have never gotten around to it.

So i guess i'll say something about proper fusing practices ie.. when to fuse.

so the first thing you need to understand when fusing is that the fuse is not there to protect the amp. The dole purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring and to prevent an unsafe condition in the event of a short or excess current draw.

so the first fuse you're going to have is your main fuse. you want to put this as close as physically possibe to your battery so that you have the minimum length of unprotected wire.

coming out of your main fuse holder you're going to have the same size wire running to your trunk or under your seat or wherever your amp may be. for a normal setup this wire will just go straight into your amp.

what if you're running 2 amps? well you can run 2 wires from the battery to the amps with a main fuse like above, or you can run a distribution block. You're still going to have one large wire from the battery to the distribution block with a main fuse. the next part is very important. the wires coming off of the distribution block must be fused because you've reduced the wire diameter. reduce the diamater, you reduce the max current it can safely carry.


Modified by EBP_SI at 11:58 PM 3/28/2007


Modified by EBP_SI at 12:01 AM 3/29/2007
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Default Re: (ARMED)

sorry...that was a typo. now corrected
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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Default Re: (ARMED)

Its is. he will fix it when he gets a chance
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 12:36 AM
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correct
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 01:12 AM
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ebp, were is the power write up chart? hurry!!!!. lol
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Old Mar 30, 2007 | 07:46 AM
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Default Re: (wrx-killer-Sti eater)

Awesome. If people want this stickied, LMK. I may have to do a FAQ archive thread to keep the top of the forum less cluttered.

Who votes sticky?
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i used to carry around a box of those. (and i'm not even kidding)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not the best type of fuse to use in a car though. The fuse pictured will cause close to 1v voltage drop just to get through the diode.
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Default Re: (nsxxtreme)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not the best type of fuse to use in a car though. The fuse pictured will cause close to 1v voltage drop just to get through the diode.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah i carried a box of fuses in the back of my truck when i used to do a lot of work installing server rooms.

what the hell would i need an 800A fuse for in my car lol
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:23 AM
  #13  
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Default Re: (EBP_SI)

Great writeup, it cleared up a lot of info.

On a related note - what size fuse do you recommend for the line carrying the current from a battery in the rear to the fusebox up front?

I have 0ga wire coming off of the battery (+) and about 12" from the battery (-) to chassis. When it reaches the front, there is a battery terminal for jumping the battery, and a 4ga line from the terminal to the fusebox, and then 4ga to the starter.

Will anything from this page work?

http://order.waytekwire.com/IM...8.PDF


Thanks!!!!!
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (wrx-killer-Sti eater)

Let's put together a bunch of FAQs/Answers and then I'll re-title this thread for an archive index. If you've already answered a question or have seen it answered repeatedly then you could just post the link.

What's a good brand of stereo, speakers, sub, amps?

What size fuse should I use for my battery relocation or for X amp or X gauge wire?

Help with theft code (already have an answer for this).

98 Civic w/aftermarket deck now keyless entry and domelight don't work (already have this one).

How do I bypass the parking brake on my DVD player?

How do I install remote start on my manual transmission equipped vehicle?

Why the hell would I use lower than 4 gauge wire unless I'm just trying to show off?

etc etc etc. Any common question you can think of or see posted. Even if the answer is that we're not going to give you the answer you're looking for.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (suspendedHatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I bypass the parking brake on my DVD player?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope the answer to this question is that because of legal and safety implications, Honda-Tech.com is not the place for discussion and/or endorsement of illegal activities...
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (suspendedHatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why the hell would I use lower than 4 gauge wire unless I'm just trying to show off?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... OR, I got it at a very good price

I believe I already found the answer to my previous fuse question, but I would still like to hear other people's input
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #17  
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (B18EG6)

Lot of B18chassis code avatars, hmm...

B18C_EJ8, that answer is fine. But I kind of like "because I don't want idiots crashing into me, Honda-Tech.com is not the place for discussion and/or endorsement of dvd parking brake bypass... " I could care less what's legal or not.

B18EG6, I don't think that's a good reason.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:22 AM
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (wrx-killer-Sti eater)

Beautiful write up.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 07:33 AM
  #19  
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Default Re: Fuse holders for car stereo amps. (wrx-killer-Sti eater)

I run the Regular ANL type on my setup....When I turned up the volume I kept blowing the AGU Glass fuses.....boooo
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