made by keishin(excuse the spelling)
the mouth is 50 mm ID
tapered
throat is 42mm ID
hoping someone may have the data...i can take pics if necessary
thanks

 

Pictures would be a must for this situation.

 

must be Keihin???

 

yeah it is keihin not keishin
they are two piece
heres a flick of em




and heres a flick of the tps

 

must be a late model gsx-r suzuki..
if it can be sectioned into 2..

the earlier model gsx-r's i think can be spaced individually,

49.5 opening, 41.8 at the plate

 

yeah its definitely a two piece, not all individual...
that sounds just about right for the dimensions...i just rounded the numbers off to give yall an idea...

what size is the gsx-r motor?


do you think i need to port the TBs for a high comp LSV?


also what can i do with the tps? can i get a suzuki connector and splice it in to my harness and calibrate the sensor or do i need to rig something up for the factory honda to work?

 

with the tps, u can go with either route u mentioned..


im not sure on the gsx-r motor size.. but its got to be sumwer in the 750-1000 range.. lets see what other knowledgeable peepz say.. i myt be wrong..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acid-burn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the tps, u can go with either route u mentioned..


im not sure on the gsx-r motor size.. but its got to be sumwer in the 750-1000 range.. lets see what other knowledgeable peepz say.. i myt be wrong..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the help.

now the bikes motor is about half the size of the b18, will the TBs provide sufficient airflow for a setup that will be making between 200-210 whp?

bikes do rev high though, so they may be optimized to work with small displacement high RPM operation and will work equally well with bigger displacement lower RPM.... this is just a guess

i know im probably gonna have to tune the runner length to get good power out of them, but im still unsure if the stock internal dimensions of the TBs are sufficient...the tapered area has a pretty noticable ridge(both in the front and back)and im wondering if blending it would be beneficial.

im using a chopped pr3 (not p30) manifold and all ive done so far is deburred and polished the runners....i havent really taken off too much material... just what was necessary to make the runners smooth instead of having a stucco like texture like before..LOL

 

42mm will feed about 60hp worth of air. bikes have smaller motors but they rev much higher..

as far as the tps, crome or other managements will allow you to change tps voltage on the rom. you can use the stock suzuki tps. i made a conversion harness to be able to swap between itbs and manifolds without having to change the connector every time

those are '04 and up gsxr 750-1000 throttle bodies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">42mm will feed about 60hp worth of air. bikes have smaller motors but they rev much higher..

as far as the tps, crome or other managements will allow you to change tps voltage on the rom. you can use the stock suzuki tps. i made a conversion harness to be able to swap between itbs and manifolds without having to change the connector every time

those are '04 and up gsxr 750-1000 throttle bodies.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, so im fine with the stock dimensions up to ~240whp, correct?

can anyone suggest a minimum runner length as a starting point?
- im still not sure how high the motor will be revved, but i will be running sk2s2 cams so its pretty safe to say ill be maxin out anywhere around 9k RPM

i will be running CROME... so pretty much just leave the TPS alone and find the right suzuki connector for it and adjust on the dyno, correct?

a conversion harness sounds like a good idea...where did you find the right male connector that will fit the stock honda tps female connector? it would benefit me to do something like this since i also have a ported aebs manifold i might run instead if i dont like the feel of the ITBS...

thanks for the help so far

 

The throttle bodies you have are the same ones I am using for my F22B2 build https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1938405

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Team Integra.net" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The general rule is that you should begin with a runner length of 17.8 cm for a 10,000 rpm peak torque location, from the intake opening to the plenum chamber. You add 4.3 cm to the runner length for every 1000 rpm that you want the peak torque to occur before the 10,000 rpm.

So, for instance, if peak torque should occur at 4,000 rpm the total runner length should be 17.8 cm + (6 x 4.3 cm) = 43.6 cm.

Vizard also suggests that you can calculate the ideal runner diameter by the equation :

SQRT { (target rpm for peak torque x Displacement x VE)/ 3330 }

SQRT = square root

VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %

Displacement in Liters

eg.

So if we want peak torque at 5800 rpm at 95% VE in a teg, VE = 0.95

SQRT { (5800x 1.8 L x 0.95)/3330}

= 1.73 in. or 43.8 mm (1,73 x 25.4 mm/in.) is the ideal runner diameter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

These are the formulas I used to get my runner length and my diameter.

Two more weeks til I'm running them to see if my calculations were right. If not i'm screwed, cause I welded my runners. Oh well I have two more sets of GSXR ITB's to work with.

Hope this helps ya a bit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The throttle bodies you have are the same ones I am using for my F22B2 build https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1938405

These are the formulas I used to get my runner length and my diameter.

Two more weeks til I'm running them to see if my calculations were right. If not i'm screwed, cause I welded my runners. Oh well I have two more sets of GSXR ITB's to work with.

Hope this helps ya a bit </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks...

now i just need to calculate my VE and i can work from there....

im pretty new to engine building and some things are still unclear to me...

upon what factors are peak torque RPM selection based on?

since the ITBs are round and the runners are more of an oval shape, how can i figure the area of the oval runner? id like to match the ID area as close as possible between the runners and the TB.

also for the formula to achieve runner ID, am i suppossed to find the SQRT of the total inside the {brackets}?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">upon what factors are peak torque RPM selection based on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess that all depends on if you are planning on doing internal work to your engine or not. For example my torque and RPM range as my car sits now is 3500-4500/5000 RPM range. I wanted my RPM range around 5000 - 8500 RPM so I am building my engine to achieve those specs and I built my ITB's to correspond.

Question you have to ask yourself what is the purpose for the build? ie daily driver/ street/strip...etc and what is the average RPM range for the vehicles in these categories...get the average RPM range then go from there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since the ITBs are round and the runners are more of an oval shape, how can i figure the area of the oval runner?</TD></TR></TABLE> Where you have the ITb's already I would just match your runners to them. Be more concerened with the length. Your probably going to run into a step down (shrink) from the GSXR TB to your intake manifold if you are running this on a D or B series intake manifold anyway.

I had my pipes/runners bent and they flattened out a bit and matched my oval F22 intake 100%. I rounded the end @ the throttles and bam, pretty much seamless. lucky for me



Making motorcycle ITB's for cars is very custom. Every setup will change from one motor to the next and from one person to the next. That's why I chose making these GSXR ITB's over buying a manufactured set.....no room for changes on those ones. you have to build your engine and change your driving style to suit them. I built mine to suit me!

 

Those are Hayabusa throttle bodies, I have the same ones. As far as flowing air, they are the same size as the commercial ITB's on the market (48-50 mm), and those make great power. Also, a hayabusa is a 1.3 L revving to what, about 14000 rpm? so it should flow enough air at 9000 rpm for roughly 2.4 L of engine. (not to mention that a bike head will flow more efficiently than a car head).

Nice choice on DIY ITB's, as you can space them out properly to match your runner spacing.

Edit: Missed the part about being 2-piece.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess that all depends on if you are planning on doing internal work to your engine or not. For example my torque and RPM range as my car sits now is 3500-4500/5000 RPM range. I wanted my RPM range around 5000 - 8500 RPM so I am building my engine to achieve those specs and I built my ITB's to correspond.

Question you have to ask yourself what is the purpose for the build? ie daily driver/ street/strip...etc and what is the average RPM range for the vehicles in these categories...get the average RPM range then go from there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well ima put em on my cammed b16 for now, but once my 1.8 block is done they are gonna go on that, so id like them to be optimized for a 1.8 litre high comp motor...
its gonna be a b18a block
je high comp pistons
~12.2:1 CR
sk2s2 cams
rage header
and all the other usual stuff

the car is definitely not a DD, but id still like it to have semi decent street manners for those sunday cruises...with my cam selection my peak power is definitely gonna be somewhere over 9k RPM...i dont drive my honda all the time and when i do i like to beat on it, so its pretty much im pushing for the most mid-top end, but id still like to have a strong low-midrange...as far as choosing where id like peak TQ to occur im not sure....id like to hear from others what is optimal and what theyd suggest for a good balance ...


[QUOTE=GhostAccord]


Where you have the ITb's already I would just match your runners to them. Be more concerened with the length. Your probably going to run into a step down (shrink) from the GSXR TB to your intake manifold if you are running this on a D or B series intake manifold anyway.

I had my pipes/runners bent and they flattened out a bit and matched my oval F22 intake 100%. I rounded the end @ the throttles and bam, pretty much seamless. lucky for me

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats a pretty good idea for the runners but i suck at welding and i was just gonna hose clamp rubber grommets between the TBs and runners, unless someone can persuade me otherwise.


[QUOTE=jvtec95]Those are Hayabusa throttle bodies, I have the same ones. As far as flowing air, they are the same size as the commercial ITB's on the market (48-50 mm), and those make great power. Also, a hayabusa is a 1.3 L revving to what, about 14000 rpm? so it should flow enough air at 9000 rpm for roughly 2.4 L of engine. (not to mention that a bike head will flow more efficiently than a car head).

Nice choice on DIY ITB's, as you can space them out properly to match your runner spacing.

Edit: Missed the part about being 2-piece.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where did you find the right connector for the TPS?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you find the right connector for the TPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>

For he sake of three wires I'm going with the GSXR TPS. All I'm doing is cutting the stock Honda TPS connector off and soldering the three wires from the GSXR TPS to the wiring harnes. Crome has ITB tools that allow you to change the min & max voltage the TPS will send to the ECU. All you need to get are the voltage readings from the Suzuki TPS and add them to Crome ITB Tools. No need to fab anything but three wires.....save some time there.

Now there is someone on here that has fabbed up a universal connector/wire harness so he can switch back and forth between his ITB TPS and honda TPS....but I don't remember who or where I read that post?????

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was just gonna hose clamp rubber grommets between the TBs and runners, unless someone can persuade me otherwise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah the rubber/silicone hose seems to be a popular way to go for connecting the TB's to the IM. In this case you can change the length of your runner just by using longer hoses or cutting them shorter.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...with my cam selection my peak power is definitely gonna be somewhere over 9k RPM...</TD></TR></TABLE>
As for your RPM your going to want your ITB's to closely match watever the specs are for the cams you are going to run with. Other wise it will be a nightmare to tune, or it jsut won't run very well.


Modified by GhostAccord at 10:50 PM 4/4/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For he sake of three wires I'm going with the GSXR TPS. All I'm doing is cutting the stock Honda TPS connector off and soldering the three wires from the GSXR TPS to the wiring harnes. Crome has ITB tools that allow you to change the min & max voltage the TPS will send to the ECU. All you need to get are the voltage readings from the Suzuki TPS and add them to Crome ITB Tools. No need to fab anything but three wires.....save some time there.

Now there is someone on here that has fabbed up a universal connector/wire harness so he can switch back and forth between his ITB TPS and honda TPS....but I don't remember who or where I read that post?????


Yeah the rubber/silicone hose seems to be a popular way to go for connecting the TB's to the IM. In this case you can change the length of your runner just by using longer hoses or cutting them shorter.....


As for your RPM your going to want your ITB's to closely match watever the specs are for the cams you are going to run with. Other wise it will be a nightmare to tune, or it jsut won't run very well.


Modified by GhostAccord at 10:50 PM 4/4/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks bud...that sounds like a pretty good idea for the tps...
"mmuller" said that he made a jumper harness for ITBs/mani switch off...sounds like a good idea...ill probably end up doing something similar...

yeah i like the rubber hose idea for the runners because it will give me the option of adjusting individual runner length to suit each cylinder before i permanently weld them...the only thing i dont like about the rubber hose is that im sure its gonna make the incoming charge really turbulent because of all the edges... i was thinking of tapering the inside edge of the runners in the mean time to smooth the flow out...i dunno im still undecided...its a pretty detailed thought process to find out what will best suit the motor, and even then im sure theres still gonna be kinks to work out.

as for building my ITBs to work well with the cams, do you think its a good idea to dyno the motor first with my aebs mani, see how high it likes to rev, find peak tq, and then figure out the runner length? in the mean time ill probably just run the rubber hosing while i have it on my b16 and then figure out the dimensions for the runner length/diameter, for the welded runners once i actually have some data for the motor to work with...

thanks for all the help so far....i appreciate it
i wish i knew more people that were into hondas, it would make this a whole lot easier...

how necessary is it to run a vac. log? the ITBs already have the lines from each TB going to 1 for the MAP...has its own line for the FPR...im gonna use one of theITBs fuel injector ports for the booster...not gonna run a iacv...what else is left? am i good to go w/o a vac. log or would you still recommend one?

still not sure where to put the IAT sensor...maybe just drill a hole in one of the runners...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX' &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"mmuller" said that he made a jumper harness for ITBs/mani switch off...sounds like a good idea...ill probably end up doing something similar...</TD></TR></TABLE> hey thanks for not giving me the much deserved flame on that one...dauuhhh! mmuller's info was further up in this thread....I new I had read it recently had a long day.......

As for the vac log....I'm not 100% on how it will benefit me other than it keeps everything looking clean. I'm going off the research I have done. I was concerned about the Fuel pressure regulator the most as it will not work with a pulsing vacuum. Same situation for the map even though I'm trying out the MAP to TPS crossover in Crome. I'm going to play with those settings to get it to work. I have read that ITB's have next to no vacuum after 20% throttle anyway. As for the stock vacuum ports in the GSXR throttles I'm using those for my IACV and EVAP. Figure keeping them will help tune. Then after i get the ITB's up and running then fine tuned I'll think about removing them one at a time.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still not sure where to put the IAT sensor...maybe just drill a hole in one of the runners...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have read that you can just mount the IAT sen. any were around the mouth of the ITB's it doesn't have to be in the runners. why risk a vac leak, drill a hole some where above the throttle plates. Make sure if you do this that the IAT doesn't get in the way of the throttle operation. I am using a ram air intake on my setup and the GSXR airbox has a port right next to the velocity stacks for the IAT sensor, and imagine that the honda IAT screws in perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jvtec95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are Hayabusa throttle bodies, I have the same ones. As far as flowing air, they are the same size as the commercial ITB's on the market (48-50 mm), and those make great power. Also, a hayabusa is a 1.3 L revving to what, about 14000 rpm? so it should flow enough air at 9000 rpm for roughly 2.4 L of engine. (not to mention that a bike head will flow more efficiently than a car head).

Nice choice on DIY ITB's, as you can space them out properly to match your runner spacing.

Edit: Missed the part about being 2-piece.</TD></TR></TABLE>

busa's have a 46mm throttle plate.

these have a 42mm throttle plate so i would go with late model 1000cc GSXR. Definitely not honda because you cant space out each individual throttle with honda throttles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As for the vac log....I'm not 100% on how it will benefit me other than it keeps everything looking clean. I'm going off the research I have done. I was concerned about the Fuel pressure regulator the most as it will not work with a pulsing vacuum. Same situation for the map even though I'm trying out the MAP to TPS crossover in Crome. I'm going to play with those settings to get it to work. I have read that ITB's have next to no vacuum after 20% throttle anyway. As for the stock vacuum ports in the GSXR throttles I'm using those for my IACV and EVAP. Figure keeping them will help tune. Then after i get the ITB's up and running then fine tuned I'll think about removing them one at a time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah, i think it will definitely make it look a little cleaner, but if i can do without it im not gonna run it.

can you clarify what you mean by a pulsing vaccum? wouldnt any vaccum source be pulsing at idle/low rpm?

i was thinking about running the iacv at first, but i dont even drive the car that often and when i do i let it warm up completely before i start moving....the only difference i can see is that im probably gonna have to give it minor throttle till it warms up to keep it alive....can the iacv be tuned out in CROME so i dont throw a code running w/o one?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have read that you can just mount the IAT sen. any were around the mouth of the ITB's it doesn't have to be in the runners. why risk a vac leak, drill a hole some where above the throttle plates. Make sure if you do this that the IAT doesn't get in the way of the throttle operation. I am using a ram air intake on my setup and the GSXR airbox has a port right next to the velocity stacks for the IAT sensor, and imagine that the honda IAT screws in perfectly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

cool thanks for the info!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

busa's have a 46mm throttle plate.

these have a 42mm throttle plate so i would go with late model 1000cc GSXR. Definitely not honda because you cant space out each individual throttle with honda throttles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the TBs on mine are actually two piece not four

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the TBs on mine are actually two piece not four</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, must have been the angle or something, lol.

well.....take a honda TPS sensor and see if it will hookup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....can the iacv be tuned out in CROME so i dont throw a code running w/o one? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you can disable/enable your IACV with Crome Pro


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 'Suck my DX" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pulsing vaccum? wouldnt any vaccum source be pulsing at idle/low rpm?</TD></TR></TABLE>
At Idle that is actually when the vacuum is at it's greatest as less air is bing introduced to the IM. With out getting into all the jargan that no one understands. I'll try to explain it in laymans terms. When your piston is on a down stroke, it creates vacuum and therefore sucks air and fuel from the intake manifold. Engines that have long intake manifold runners and a plenum can "store" more air/fuel in the runner for the next time the intake valve opens. creating a sort of constant state of vacuum. The longer the runner length the more air is “waiting” to go in to the cylinder as opposed to ITB's where after the intake valve closes that stored vacuum exits right out passed the throttle plate and out the open stack. That's as simple as I can explain it. If anyone has anything they can add....give'r

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

At Idle that is actually when the vacuum is at it's greatest as less air is bing introduced to the IM. With out getting into all the jargan that no one understands. I'll try to explain it in laymans terms. When your piston is on a down stroke, it creates vacuum and therefore sucks air and fuel from the intake manifold. Engines that have long intake manifold runners and a plenum can "store" more air/fuel in the runner for the next time the intake valve opens. creating a sort of constant state of vacuum. The longer the runner length the more air is “waiting” to go in to the cylinder as opposed to ITB's where after the intake valve closes that stored vacuum exits right out passed the throttle plate and out the open stack. That's as simple as I can explain it. If anyone has anything they can add....give'r</TD></TR></TABLE>

so why are ITBS so quick to lose vaccum?

is vaccum pressure highest in the runners or the plenum? or is it even throughout the intake tract?

so pretty much the vaccum log acts as a plenum solely for the purpose of keeping constant vaccum?
how does the vaccum log build sufficient vaccum if the ITBs cant maintain one?

 

Ok let me rephrase that, the longer the runner and plenum together the better the vacuum. In the case of a stock IM the runner and the plenum together make a longer tube for the vacuum to be stored in. you also have to take into account that most people will ahve an intake system on there car, making the intake track even longer. Itb's are short there for the vacuum is far less and deminishes faster as there is nothing to hold it in.

In my design the vacuum manifold is being fed by 4 3/8 vacuum lines with 1/4" brass vacuum ports. They act similar to the runners in a stock IM but smaller, one from each runner placed as close to the head as possible. I have seen people use the stock injector ports as the vacuum supply and move there injectors closer to the throttle plates/butterflies.

With the 1/4" brass step down ports in the line closest to the head they restrict/slow down the loss of vacuum from the log once it has been built up. Now with that being said my design will only hold vacuum up until a certain point, but that point will be for longer than if I wasn't using it. As I said earlier I'm going the root of Map to TPS crossover for tuning. There is another way, it may be easier or may not. There are people who tune these using Alpha N or TPS vs RPM and no MAP sensor at all. If you want to know more about tuning with out a map do a search for this type of tuning and I'm sure you'll find lots of info on that way to tune. I am not familliar with these processes.

*Note this is all based on theory and reading up on some of the principles of MAP tuning. I am just a DIY'er, none of this may work I have seen it work on other peoples setups though I have been on researching some of the same things that you are now. I have done as much research as I can over the past 5 months and in two weeks I'm going to put it all to practice. I am hoping that if I am way out of wack with my theories that some helpful sole on here will sort me the F@!k out.....


Modified by GhostAccord at 11:13 PM 4/5/2007

 

i see....yeah i think i can do without a vaccum log...i wouldnt doubt it makes the installation look cleaner, but im trying to avoid spending too much money on these things for the time being.


as far as the plenum not creating a pulsing vaccum, wouldnt each runner have different vaccum readings since technically the distance from the port of cyl.1 to TB opening is longer than the distance from the port of cylinder 2 to the TB, and so on? or do the values of each different runner length mix to get one steady reading throughout the manifold, and thats what the sensor readings are based on?
im not sure if that made sense or not, but if it didnt i can try to rephrase it...