I am searching for a quality set of engine mounts that don't require you to bash the shiznit out of the driver side frame rail to clear the alternator pulley, such as HAsport or innovative mounts.

I think it just looks ugly.

I'd rather just use the HAsport mounts and and cut the frame rail and weld something like this into place. The trouble is I wouldn't know anyone who would/could make one, and I don't know the costs involved.



Does anyone have suggestions or ideas?

 

cutting the frame can never be good due to the fact that it takes the strength away

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerpro_69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cutting the frame can never be good due to the fact that it takes the strength away</TD></TR></TABLE>

So does bashing the F.UCK out of it with a hammer.

The above, welded back in all nice would be a much better alternative.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So does bashing the F.UCK out of it with a hammer.

The above, welded back in all nice would be a much better alternative.</TD></TR></TABLE>

um not really...plus you dont "bash the expletive" out of it...you barely put a dent...it's been done like this for years on thousands of swaps...nothing new...

 

I swapped a b18a into a 91 crx hf and didnt have to bash the frame in. I just have the shortest alt. belt so it pulls it closer to the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's been done like this for years on thousands of swaps...nothing new...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah true, but it looks ugly and isn't clean looking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lynx Bus Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah true, but it looks ugly and isn't clean looking. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you kidding me, who looks at it? you cant notice it with a b-series in it...the "ef" engine bay isnt the prettiest looking to begin with...a lot of it looks indented...at least you have the alternator to cover this one...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

um not really...plus you dont "bash the expletive" out of it...you barely put a dent...it's been done like this for years on thousands of swaps...nothing new...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, done forever with no traumatic results. I know. Its just ghetto and shitty looking and it bugs picky car guys like me. There are other alternatives.
I fabbed my own bracket and got another belt.

 

It looks ugly though when you go to a K series later on. See look how bad it looks.

 

^I can't see it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^I can't see it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly!!! I will smooth it out some before she gets white paint laid. Oh and even with a Big K20A no probs with the dent, I would be more worried about my cut, and dented cross member, and welded in motor mount, and all the other stupid ****. I mean simply said, either one would work, but is it necessary? I mean that is the great thing about B swaps, No welding, unless you make your shift linkage. Why make it more than what it is?

 

I'm totally all for the whole beat up engine bay look. It puts the primative back in tuning.

 

Lynx;

The amount of "denting" isn't that much!

If you are really worried about the look, then smooth it out with a thin coat of bondo.

You could also use a torch to heat up the frame rail and dent it in using a ball-peen or body working hammer. This would give a better shape to the dent.

But in answer to your question, there is nothing wrong with boxing out the frame rail as long as the gauge metal used is correct and that it's welded by a qualified welder.

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

um not really...plus you dont "bash the expletive" out of it...you barely put a dent...it's been done like this for years on thousands of swaps...nothing new...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Plus if done right, its not noticeable . Just don't chip the paint

Cutting the frame then welding that piece in is going to add unwanted heat to that metal, if anything dented the frame would be stronger in the long run. For what its worth

 

mine has a bigger alternator AEM pully on it . i cut thru the 5 or 6 layers of metal in a slot on the bottom. whacked it with a hammer to close the slot. welded it back up slot and its been like that for years of abusive racing.

 

i know how you feel Lynx, it just looks shitty.

what we did on my old 90 dx, was actually cut a bit extra out, and then weld sheet metal in, little bondo and some paint and you can make the contour look like it was supposed to be there all along.

sure its extra work, but if it bothers you go for it.

you dont need to buy anything is what im saying.