at first it started to overheat and the radiator would need to be refilled, problem was the water pump was leaking, fixed. I thought everything would be cool, but nope today the needle began to move. it actually reached red but no smoke or anything, I checked the radiator and it was full, the reservoir is full. I guess the previous owner hard wired the fan to be on all the time, must have had the same problem. Today I noticed that the neddle would go up then come down and stay down, it only went down to about 3/4 of the way not down enough, also the temp would no go down as soon as I start moving, which I have seen with my old car that when it was overheating as soon as I start moving the needle goes down. Finally the question.

Could this be the water temp sensor that is bad now if not what else could it be?

I have been told that if the block seal is bad the oil would look milky but I do not see that. I am planning to replace the motor, but would like to fix this so I can't drice without having to worry.

Any suggestion are welcomed.

 

I'm thinking water pump...

 

the water pump is new, a new on was put in 2 days ago.

 

there was this type of problem that was posted a few months ago. you may want to check your thermostat. could be a bad one or whatsoever.

 

How long ago was the pump changed (miles)? when you refilled the cooling system, you may still have an air pocket trapped in there somwhere causing the erratic temp. problems. A good rule of thumb, I live by it. If you change water pump, Always change thermostat too. They are just too cheap to overlook. Eliminates lots of headaches when diagnosing overheating afterwards.

Chris

 

A temperature that changes says you fluid is moving at times. An intermittant Blockage.
The Thermostat would be my first guess. Thermostats sometimes dont have enough clearance between the Valve and the Seat. If you have to check it, put a new one in.
But before you put the new one in, check it for clearance. It can leak a little when it's closed, but you cant afford to have it stick shut!
I took the side cutters to my 'problem child' and shortend the circumference of the Valve. That solved the problem.
A stuck Thermostat is probably the best cause of Water pump seals giving up!

It's not too dificult to pull the Radiator Hoses off and using a garden hose, check the flow through the Radiator and Heater. Be sure you have a 50/50 Antifreeze/water mix. Antifreeze is much harder to heat than water.

On the Sensor. If you suspect your sensor/Guage is reading wrong, carry a cooking Thermometer, just stick it in the Radiator when your guage reads Hot, and see if it's up around 200 degrees or more. The Water in the Radiator should always be up around 180-200. Beyond that it's actually overheating.

Be sure and let us know what's happening and what you did to fix it!

 

thanks for all your comments and suggestions I really appreciate it.
The water pump and timing belt was replaced less than 200 miles ago, I just changed the thermostat about 30 minutes ago, I am going to drive around today and see if it overheats again, it usually only happens after a while of driving. Last time I drove at the most 20 miles with about 3 stops until it overheated, then I let it cool for 20 minutes and it did not overheat again on the way to the junkyard and then home, about 10 miles. that is why I think it's kind of weird that it happens way later, I'm sure the water/coolant heats up much faster than that, but oh well, process of elimination.
B16ED4G: I will flush the radiator next if this does not work. I think it needs to be done anyways, so it will get done. By the looks of things I think the previous owner did not do any type of maintenance work. All the valve cover gaskets were hard, they have seen so much heat for so long they were not even rubber any more, they had already turned to plastic .

Thudpucker: Goood Idea, I have a digital thermometer here somewhere I will look for it and carry it with me. That's good information I was wondering what the running temp was. Is that the standard temp for most cars? or maybe also integras? I am curios cause I have a teg.


How hard do you guys think, if it is neccessary, for me to change the head gasket?
I am not a pro mechanic but I can do most things myself, it takes me longer than most people since I am learning but I can always do it. Or should I let a pro do it?

Thanks again.


[Modified by 98401R, 8:27 PM 5/27/2002]

 

When you put the Tstat in,I hope you checked it for binds?

I dont know what a Teg is!
Yes, most cars run at 180-200. They can run higher as well, but running lower causes Tuning problems, as well as maybe dumping all the water past the Overflow tank.

 

when I say teg I mean integra.

I went for a drive to take care of some errands and after 15 miles it began to heat up, this is 15 miles with 1 stop for about an hour.

I checked the temp of the radiator fluid and it came up at 200 F, the temp neddle was only 3/4 of the ways up so I would say that when it gets in the red it is well over 200 F.

I looked at the Tstat, the old one and it looked good, just as good as the new one, what exactly do you mean by binds?

Thudpucker: you say 180-200 that is in F right?

Anyone have any other suggestions?

I stopped by Kragen on the way back and checked on the price for a new head gasket, $160USD!!!, I might as well buy a new engine....

They recommended to get the gasket maker stuff, which is basically high temp silicone which is safe for the engine they are about $10 a tube.
Does anyone have any experience with this, is it any good, should I use it until I buy the new engine?

I am thinking to throw in a ZC.

Thanks


[Modified by 98401R, 3:20 AM 5/28/2002]

 

Thanks for the Teg tip, I'm new to Honda.

Yeah, that's in F's. They can run hotter, but it's not healthy.
Dont go off on the Head gasket till you've done some troubleshooting.

Take the Compression readings when it's as hot as you can stand to work with it.
Throttle Valve wide open etc etc.....

Run it at a high rpm and see if the Water Pump is doing what it should. You'll have to make up a "Tool" or "Jig" to see this.
Use PVC to make a bypass to a washtub or something of the like.
The Return hose is the bottom hose. It shold be hot all the time.
The Top hose is the input to the engine. You'll have to make something up to get water in the top hose without too much pressure.
The water should be coming out the bottom hose with pressure.

Once your sure the Pump is working good, You can start on the Radiator, and the HEater unit.

 

I don't have a compression test kit, I have been meaning to buy one though
I would like to get one that I could use on the integra as well, can recommend any?

 

Problem fixed, so far...
I took the car to RadiatorLand, it turns that for $25 they will check the cooling system and can tell you if the water pump, thermostat, radiator or head gasket are bad. They did their test and it was the thermostat. Their system, whatever they use, said the thermostat was BAD/STICKY. It was replaced. This was yesterday, today I drove around for about 2 hours on a "Hunt For Red Line Oil" and it never once went above the middle mark. The guy at RadiatorLand says that at least 5 out of 50 stats turn out to be bad even though they are new. I had replaced mine last week so I never thought it could be that.
Whew, I was worried it was going to be the head gasket.
I also changed the radiator hoses today.

Thanks for everyones responses.