I rid myself of the shock knock after getting those shorter collars from Honda and research on HT threads. This was back on my Tein 0.5" drop springs and GR-2's.

I just put in neuspeed race's for a drop of ~2" on GR-2's.

Front sounds perfectly fine.
Driver side rear sounds fine.
Passenger side rear - SHOCK KNOCK HAS RETURNED

I've tried the metal washer trick.
I've tried wiggling the R swaybar while the car is at ride height to see if the endlinks are shot. Maybe I'm not wiggling hard enough?

I'm at a loss. Any suggestions? It's a terrible squeeking knock over potholes and such. Even music can't completely mask it.


I'm thinking I can remove the rear swaybar altogether to try and isolate the problem? It really sounds like its coming from the shock tower though...

 

I have no clues, but I am interested on the cure. Keep us updated.

 

still running bumpstops yes?

have you trimmed them?

 

Yup trimmed them halfway.

I'm really really hoping its swaybar related.
Because it seems to be that when I go over speed bumps straight on with both sides even, theres no knock, or reduced knock.


This is really demoralizing.

Hmmm.

 

It might not be of any help but check the bushings on the ends of the sway bar. If they are cracked, compressed, or missing that can be part of the probelm. It's happened to me before.

Pirate

 

I was under the impression from KYB that the GR-2 series shocks are not designed to be lowered past 1inch. I was told by their tech that if you do lower past 1 inch, it voids the warranty and will more than likely blow. On the endlink thing, you might want to jack up the car and test it without the suspension being sprung.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmai86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm really really hoping its swaybar related.
Because it seems to be that when I go over speed bumps straight on with both sides even, theres no knock, or reduced knock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what mine sounded like when my swaybar was hitting the rear toe-arm-thing. After some longer endlinks (Progress swaybar) the sound is gone.

Take your swaybar off temporarily and see if the sound goes away.

 

I don't know much about suspension, and I want to know the answer to this cuz I have the same problem in the exact same place. Kinda annoying. I **** a brick everytime i take a corner hard, I'm just waiting for my rim to go flying off my car.

 

I'll take off the sway bar tomorrow and see what's up.

Does the endlink come off with the swaybar though? And will they get damaged?

 

The best bet is to remove the endlink from the knuckle. That's one bolt (14mm?) on each side, and then remove the hangers or the bracket that holds the bar. I think you actually will find its easier to remove the whole hanger on the driver-side, and just the U shaped bracket on the passenger side.

When done go drive around and find out what its like to really under-steer.

 

Oh man that knuckle endlink bolt is a PITA. No room for leverage at all.

 

Just an update.


Removed rear sway.

Knocking has reduced a little. More like, isolated the major sound coming from the rear pass shock.

Took a look at the shock hat, and hot dog the spring ain even seated all the way in the rubber!

So I'm fairly certain that..


- Need new shock hat bushings + rubber seats.
- Need new sway bushings ( they looked pretty bad)

If that doesn't fix it, then baby jesus just hates me. 'Cus there's nothing else to look at lol.


Thanks for all the help!


P.S. Driving without a sway sucks major *****. Felt like driving my old 93 maxima again.

 

when i thought i had shock knock my rear sway bar mount was cracked. replaced and voila. i bet it has something to do with your endlinks or the sway bar.

edit: leet postage

 

Possibly. I'm gonna put the new bushings in and rebuild the struts (correctly this time) and see if the major sound goes away.

Then I'll put the sway back on w/ new ES bushings and see if it makes noise.

THEN if there is noise again, custom endlinks!